BALMAIN
Quilt Cover Set + Pillow Sham + Fitted Sheet
$159
600 TC
100% Cotton Sateen
CANNON
Quilt Cover Set
$128.70
390 TC
100% Jacquard Cotton Sateen
COZY LUXURY
Quilt Cover Set (Embroidery)
$188
460TC
100% Cotton Sateen
JEAN PERRY
Quilt Cover Set
$159.60
500TC
Premium 100% Egyptian Cotton Jacquard Sateen
Showing posts with label Mattress and Beddings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mattress and Beddings. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Bamboo Fabric
Just discovered Bamboo Fabric and found the following info from WiseGeek. Might consider it for my new bedsheet set ;)
Bamboo clothing is being heralded as the newest eco-fabric and at a recent trade show I was excited to finally see and feel this new cloth. It is beautiful, I was struck by how shiny it was, it's appearance and feel is closer to that of satin than it's eco-competitor organic cotton. It was also really light, a cloth nappy seemed to loose all it's bulkiness when made from bamboo. The lady at the stand told me that because of it's natural deodorising properties you could wear the socks for a week without washing them... although I'm not quite sure if I'm ready to test that yet!
The advantages of bamboo seem endless, it's naturally antibacterial and anti-fungal, it's durable, it grows quickly without the use of pesticides and it is completely sustainable. It would seem to be a miracle fabric, but as with all things there is a disadvantage. I had noticed that although bamboo is grown organically that none of the garments seemed to be labeled organic.
Looking into this further I discovered that hazardous chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide are used during the processing of the plant. These chemicals are extremely toxic and can cause severe health problems to the people working with them. For example carbon disulfide is known to:
Even with all these health effects bamboo is still more environmentally friendly than many other materials. For example non organic cotton uses approximately 150g of pesticide per pound of raw cotton - enough to produce just one T shirt.
"Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass. Bamboo fabric has been growing in popularity because it has many unique properties and is more sustainable than most textile fibers. Bamboo fabric is light and strong, has excellent wicking properties, and is to some extent antibacterial. The use of bamboo fiber for clothing was a 20th century development, pioneered by several Chinese corporations.
Bamboo fiber resembles cotton in its unspun form, a puffball of light, airy fibers. Many companies use extensive bleaching processes to turn bamboo fiber white, although companies producing organic bamboo fabric leave the bamboo fiber unbleached. To make bamboo fiber, bamboo is heavily pulped until it separates into thin component threads of fiber, which can be spun and dyed for weaving into cloth.
Bamboo fabric is very soft and can be worn directly next to the skin. Many people who experience allergic reactions to other natural fibers, such as wool or hemp, do not complain of this issue with bamboo. The fiber is naturally smooth and round without chemical treatment, meaning that there are no sharp spurs to irritate the skin.
Bamboo fabric is favored by companies trying to use sustainable textiles, because the bamboo plant is very quick growing and does not usually require the use of pesticides and herbicides to thrive. As a result, plantations can easily be kept organic and replanted yearly to replenish stocks. The process of making unbleached bamboo fiber is very light on chemicals that could potentially harm the environment.
In textile form, bamboo retains many of the properties it has as a plant. Bamboo is highly water absorbent, able to take up three times its weight in water. In bamboo fabric, this translates to an excellent wicking ability that will pull moisture away from the skin so that it can evaporate. For this reason, clothing made of bamboo fiber is often worn next to the skin.
Bamboo also has many antibacterial qualities, which bamboo fabric is apparently able to retain, even through multiple washings. This helps to reduce bacteria that thrive on clothing and cause unpleasant odors. It can also kill odor causing bacteria that live on human skin, making the wearer and his or her clothing smell more sweet. In addition, bamboo fabric has insulating properties and will keep the wearer cooler in summer and warmer in winter. The versatility of bamboo fabric makes it an excellent choice for clothing designers exploring alternative textiles, and in addition, the fabric is able to take bright dye colors well, drape smoothly, and star in a variety of roles from knit shirts to woven skirts. "
But Beware! Everything have it's Pros and Cons. Read the following which I had copied from Organic Yum-Yum.
" Fashion has taken a seriously green turn this year, with London Fashion Week kicking off the trend back in February and in April we in Ireland hosted our first ever Ethical Fashion Week.
The advantages of bamboo seem endless, it's naturally antibacterial and anti-fungal, it's durable, it grows quickly without the use of pesticides and it is completely sustainable. It would seem to be a miracle fabric, but as with all things there is a disadvantage. I had noticed that although bamboo is grown organically that none of the garments seemed to be labeled organic.
Looking into this further I discovered that hazardous chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide are used during the processing of the plant. These chemicals are extremely toxic and can cause severe health problems to the people working with them. For example carbon disulfide is known to:
and sodium hydroxide when inhaled can cause:
Even with all these health effects bamboo is still more environmentally friendly than many other materials. For example non organic cotton uses approximately 150g of pesticide per pound of raw cotton - enough to produce just one T shirt.
The good news is that there is an eco-friendly and organic way of producing bamboo cloth which allows natural the natural enzymes in the plant to break down the pulp. Although it is eco-friendly it is very labour intensive and as a result costly. New technologies are also being developed to help make the mass processing methods greener."
More info here :
http://bestecostuff.com/blog/is-bamboo-fabric-green
http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_471546_bamboo_sheet_set_reviews
More info here :
http://bestecostuff.com/blog/is-bamboo-fabric-green
http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_471546_bamboo_sheet_set_reviews
Jean Perry Bedsheet Set defects at Takashimaya
DO NOT BUY any of JEAN PERRY Bedsheet Set at Takashimaya!
I just had a very bad experience there. Bought a high quality (Royal Premium, 500 Thread Count) bedsheet set at Takashimaya and at the time of purchase, I had enquired whether I can do exchange if any thread loose is found. The answer from the salesperson was a definite yes!
As to my dismay, I found more than 5 separate areas when the threads were either loose or not sewn properly.
Of course I send back to Taka for exchange. After a few days waitingf I finally got a new set, I checked the new bedsheet on the spot. Still I find some defects and feedback to see whether I can have another new one as this one is not acceptable to me.
By this time, the promoter got annoyed and doesn't allow for more exchange and then just wanted to refund me. I was reluctant to get a refund as I need a new bedsheet set urgently. She had told me that it is normal to find these kind of defects in her products.
Then I am willing to lower down my expectations and may be willing to accept the defective goods provided she allows me to check further through the rest of the bedsheet set, just in case there are really very severe defects that may cause the product unusable. Straightaway, she cut me short by not allowing me to check further and just wanted to refund me.
To cut long story short, I was very dissappointed with Jean Perry's promoter's attitude as first, the product quality is very bad, and secondly, the customer service is even worse. To think that I had even paid more than $150 for this whole shit!
I am wondering whether is the Jean Perry product quality is poor in general to start with? Definitely, I will shun Jean Perry in future bedlinen purchase !
I just had a very bad experience there. Bought a high quality (Royal Premium, 500 Thread Count) bedsheet set at Takashimaya and at the time of purchase, I had enquired whether I can do exchange if any thread loose is found. The answer from the salesperson was a definite yes!
As to my dismay, I found more than 5 separate areas when the threads were either loose or not sewn properly.
Of course I send back to Taka for exchange. After a few days waitingf I finally got a new set, I checked the new bedsheet on the spot. Still I find some defects and feedback to see whether I can have another new one as this one is not acceptable to me.
By this time, the promoter got annoyed and doesn't allow for more exchange and then just wanted to refund me. I was reluctant to get a refund as I need a new bedsheet set urgently. She had told me that it is normal to find these kind of defects in her products.
Then I am willing to lower down my expectations and may be willing to accept the defective goods provided she allows me to check further through the rest of the bedsheet set, just in case there are really very severe defects that may cause the product unusable. Straightaway, she cut me short by not allowing me to check further and just wanted to refund me.
To cut long story short, I was very dissappointed with Jean Perry's promoter's attitude as first, the product quality is very bad, and secondly, the customer service is even worse. To think that I had even paid more than $150 for this whole shit!
I am wondering whether is the Jean Perry product quality is poor in general to start with? Definitely, I will shun Jean Perry in future bedlinen purchase !
Monday, January 5, 2009
All about Cotton
FIBERS
Here is a detailed description on types of fibers commonly used in making bedsheet sets.
Here is a detailed description on types of fibers commonly used in making bedsheet sets.
CARE
All our sheets and towels are machine washable. As they are natural fibers, though, they can shrink or be damaged if improperly taken care of. The rule of thumb is to wash on cool, dry on low.
Wrinkling/Ironing
Our sheets also iron well, if you are concerned about wrinkling. But we realize that the larger sheets are unwieldy and inconvenient to iron constantly. In Italy, the Italians mostly line-dry to take care of that problem. If this is impossible, the next best thing to do is to fold once and hang your sheets over the shower curtain rod. The weight of the water in the fabric after washing will pull out most wrinkles. Another thing you can do is iron directly on the bed. We do recommend that you iron your sheets occasionally to keep them in top form.
Fabric Softeners and Drier Sheets
Fabric softeners and drier sheets do affect towel absorbency power, so avoid them when washing towels or robes.
Other topics/Bleach...
Bleach is not recommended, but very mild bleach can be used.
Tips for Ironing Fine Linen
Linens enhance and contribute to your table and keeping them looking crisp is easy if you follow these guidelines.
Use a clean iron
Before you begin, make sure that the soleplate of your iron is clean. If you’re using a steam iron, test it on an old cloth to be sure that there are no mineral deposits being left by the iron. Those droplets will cause brown staining.
Sponsored Links
Safe for cloth diapersChemical free dryer sheet system. Gentle on baby's skin and diapers.www.staticeliminator.ca
Ironing Machine Tubie®Shirt, Trousers, T-Shirt or Blouse: No other ironing doll can do more.www.ironing-machines-tubie.com
Peal starchInstant laundry starch Save time and money add to washerwww.pealstarch.com
Use a well-padded ironing board
Use a well-padded ironing board with a smooth heat-reflective cover.
Start with damp linens
The linens should be damp for easier ironing. You’ll press them until they are smooth but not completely dry and allow them to finish drying in the air.
Starch or Sizing?
If you like to fold napkins into fancy shapes, you’ll need to use starch and a hot setting on your iron to get the crispness you need. For a softer look, use spray-on sizing and iron on a medium setting.
Light or dark colors?
For light-colored linens, iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen. On dark-colored articles, iron on the wrong side only.
Prevent mildew staining
Do not fold up just ironed linens - they should be kept spread out for some time to dry.
Prevent more wrinkles as you iron
Place your ironing board near a table when ironing large items such as tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board.
Use a clean iron
Before you begin, make sure that the soleplate of your iron is clean. If you’re using a steam iron, test it on an old cloth to be sure that there are no mineral deposits being left by the iron. Those droplets will cause brown staining.
Sponsored Links
Safe for cloth diapersChemical free dryer sheet system. Gentle on baby's skin and diapers.www.staticeliminator.ca
Ironing Machine Tubie®Shirt, Trousers, T-Shirt or Blouse: No other ironing doll can do more.www.ironing-machines-tubie.com
Peal starchInstant laundry starch Save time and money add to washerwww.pealstarch.com
Use a well-padded ironing board
Use a well-padded ironing board with a smooth heat-reflective cover.
Start with damp linens
The linens should be damp for easier ironing. You’ll press them until they are smooth but not completely dry and allow them to finish drying in the air.
Starch or Sizing?
If you like to fold napkins into fancy shapes, you’ll need to use starch and a hot setting on your iron to get the crispness you need. For a softer look, use spray-on sizing and iron on a medium setting.
Light or dark colors?
For light-colored linens, iron on the wrong side first, then on the right side to bring out the sheen. On dark-colored articles, iron on the wrong side only.
Prevent mildew staining
Do not fold up just ironed linens - they should be kept spread out for some time to dry.
Prevent more wrinkles as you iron
Place your ironing board near a table when ironing large items such as tablecloths. Roll finished sections of the cloth over the table rather than letting it pile up under the ironing board.
Bedsheet 101
Wash
When in doubt, follow the washing directions on the sheet's label. For most sheets, wash in cool or lukewarm water using half of the recommended detergent. If possible, avoid using bleach as it breaks down obers or use non-chlorine bleach every other washing. Be careful not to over load as sheets will not wash properly. When drying, try to remove sheets when dry and fold immediately to avoid wrinkles. If they have already cooled in the dryer and wrinkles have set in, tumble another 5-10 minutes with a damp towel or washcloth.
Wear
Change bed linens once a week and pillowcases twice a week or more. Have three sets of sheets per bed: one for use on the bed, one in the laundry, and one in storage. Rotate all three sets so they wear evenly.
Tips
# Store sheet sets inside a pillowcase of the respective sheets to keep sets together.
# Buy extra bottom sheets for sheet patterns you love-bottom sheets wear out fastest.
# If you have time, iron pillowcases for a fresh, crisp look.
# Use a mattress pad between the mattress and sheets. Wash pad every three months.
(sources: www.about.com, www.apparelsearch.com, www.ezinearticles.com, www.calcot.com)
For more great linens, check out these Web sites:
www.threadcountzzz.com; www.thecompanystore.com; www.potterybarn.com; www.garnethill.com; www.frette.com; www.llbean.com; www.anthropologie.com; www.abundantearth.com; www.lavenderoelds.com; www.laylagrayce.com; www.dwellshop.com; www.designpublic.com; www.variegatedinc.com
When in doubt, follow the washing directions on the sheet's label. For most sheets, wash in cool or lukewarm water using half of the recommended detergent. If possible, avoid using bleach as it breaks down obers or use non-chlorine bleach every other washing. Be careful not to over load as sheets will not wash properly. When drying, try to remove sheets when dry and fold immediately to avoid wrinkles. If they have already cooled in the dryer and wrinkles have set in, tumble another 5-10 minutes with a damp towel or washcloth.
Wear
Change bed linens once a week and pillowcases twice a week or more. Have three sets of sheets per bed: one for use on the bed, one in the laundry, and one in storage. Rotate all three sets so they wear evenly.
Tips
# Store sheet sets inside a pillowcase of the respective sheets to keep sets together.
# Buy extra bottom sheets for sheet patterns you love-bottom sheets wear out fastest.
# If you have time, iron pillowcases for a fresh, crisp look.
# Use a mattress pad between the mattress and sheets. Wash pad every three months.
(sources: www.about.com, www.apparelsearch.com, www.ezinearticles.com, www.calcot.com)
For more great linens, check out these Web sites:
www.threadcountzzz.com; www.thecompanystore.com; www.potterybarn.com; www.garnethill.com; www.frette.com; www.llbean.com; www.anthropologie.com; www.abundantearth.com; www.lavenderoelds.com; www.laylagrayce.com; www.dwellshop.com; www.designpublic.com; www.variegatedinc.com
What is Cotton Sateen ?
Those who like soft, smooth sheets on their beds probably love sateen sheets. Sateen is a cotton fabric with a luster resembling that of satin. It is used for sheets and apparel.
Sateen starts with long-fiber, combed or carded cotton. The cotton is then mercerized to bring out a sheen. Mercerization involves soaking the fiber in a bath of sodium hydroxide (i.e., lye) and then in an acid bath. The result makes the cotton fiber stronger and more easily dyed. It also adds a luster to the fibers.
This mercerized luster is one of the hallmarks of good sateen. Sateen should be very soft to the touch, with a high thread count, and should drape well. Sateen fabric uses the satin stitch in construction, which means the threads are mostly on one side of the fabric, giving that smooth look.
One other type of sateen is lining sateen. Sateen used for lining jackets or wraps is usually a heavy, luxurious, yet sturdy fabric. This kind of sateen may be made from silk, wool, nylon, polyester, or any other fabric that would produce the type of lustrous fabric required.
Sateen has been a popular fabric since the early 1900s. Being made of cotton, it is much cheaper than silk satin, and is also more durable, as well as being machine washable. In the early 20th century, sateen was often used for women's undergarments because of its durability and smooth feel.
Sateen sheets have become popular as people want more luxurious fabrics in their homes and have found that sheets with a higher thread count are more durable. They are more expensive, however, and a set of 400 thread-count sateen sheets for a queen size bed can run anywhere from $80 US Dollars (USD) to well over $100 USD.
Shoppers who like crisp, ironed sheets should probably look for percale in stores. Percale sheets are more like a traditional cotton fabric and some prefer their crisper feel. They are also less expensive than sateen, in general.
Sateen is a useful, durable fabric that will probably continue to be popular in the textile industry.
Sateen starts with long-fiber, combed or carded cotton. The cotton is then mercerized to bring out a sheen. Mercerization involves soaking the fiber in a bath of sodium hydroxide (i.e., lye) and then in an acid bath. The result makes the cotton fiber stronger and more easily dyed. It also adds a luster to the fibers.
This mercerized luster is one of the hallmarks of good sateen. Sateen should be very soft to the touch, with a high thread count, and should drape well. Sateen fabric uses the satin stitch in construction, which means the threads are mostly on one side of the fabric, giving that smooth look.
One other type of sateen is lining sateen. Sateen used for lining jackets or wraps is usually a heavy, luxurious, yet sturdy fabric. This kind of sateen may be made from silk, wool, nylon, polyester, or any other fabric that would produce the type of lustrous fabric required.
Sateen has been a popular fabric since the early 1900s. Being made of cotton, it is much cheaper than silk satin, and is also more durable, as well as being machine washable. In the early 20th century, sateen was often used for women's undergarments because of its durability and smooth feel.
Sateen sheets have become popular as people want more luxurious fabrics in their homes and have found that sheets with a higher thread count are more durable. They are more expensive, however, and a set of 400 thread-count sateen sheets for a queen size bed can run anywhere from $80 US Dollars (USD) to well over $100 USD.
Shoppers who like crisp, ironed sheets should probably look for percale in stores. Percale sheets are more like a traditional cotton fabric and some prefer their crisper feel. They are also less expensive than sateen, in general.
Sateen is a useful, durable fabric that will probably continue to be popular in the textile industry.
How to wash Egyptian Cotton Bed Linen
Washing Egyptian Cotton Bed Sheets & Towels
Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.
Egyptian Cotton linens become softer and more luxurious with washing. You may find that your bed linens are more likely to wrinkle, until they have been washed a few times.
Washing your bed linens
Always wash your Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Bed Linen should be washed in warm water (no higher than 40C), using a gentle detergent followed by a cold rinse. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens. Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling.
Unlike man made fibers, cotton will benefit from line-drying, leaving them almost wrinkle free and smelling fresh. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying.
After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.
Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
Washing bath towels
We would recommend washing your towels before use. This helps to “break them in”, which makes them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are needed before 100% Egyptian cotton towels are at their maximum absorbency and softness.
Launder towels in warm water (no higher than 40C) and a gentle detergent. You should note that the use of fabric softeners will impair the absorbency of the towel.
A natural fiber such as cotton will benefit from line drying, leaving them smelling fresh and wrinkle free. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove from the tumble dryer promptly after cycle.
Washing Cotton Bed Sheets: Percale Sheets, Cotton Sateen Sheets and Egyptian Cotton Sheets
Cotton percale refers to a closely woven, high thread count combed cotton fabric. Thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads used to create one square inch of fabric. Most people think percale refers to the fabric content, however, it really refers to the weave of the fabric. Cotton percale sheets typically have a thread count of 180 or more and can be easily home laundered. Cotton Percale is known to wash well and last for many years.
Cotton sateen is generally made from combed thread, but uses a finer thread than cotton percale. It is woven differently and generally has a higher thread count than percale as finer threads are used. Cotton sateen sheets have a tendency to lose their sheen after the first washing, due to the type of construction of a sateen weave. However, ironing cotton sateen sheets after washing will immediately smooth the fibers and restore the luster and silkiness of the fabric.
Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.
Egyptian cotton that has undergone a mercerization process is the most durable type of Egyptian cotton. Mercerization is a process whereby a cotton yarn or fabric is passed through a controlled heat atmosphere (termed singeing) and then treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide). This process burns any fuzz off of the cotton yarn and ultimately results in cotton that has a higher luster and dye affinity. Subsequently, repeated washing is less likely to lead to fading, in color or luster, of your mercerized Egyptian cotton sheets. A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.
Always wash your cotton percale sheets, cotton sateen sheets and Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Take care to always use a gentle wash cycle with a cold temperature setting, and a mild detergent. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens.
Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.
Egyptian Cotton linens become softer and more luxurious with washing. You may find that your bed linens are more likely to wrinkle, until they have been washed a few times.
Washing your bed linens
Always wash your Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Bed Linen should be washed in warm water (no higher than 40C), using a gentle detergent followed by a cold rinse. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens. Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling.
Unlike man made fibers, cotton will benefit from line-drying, leaving them almost wrinkle free and smelling fresh. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying.
After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.
Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
Washing bath towels
We would recommend washing your towels before use. This helps to “break them in”, which makes them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are needed before 100% Egyptian cotton towels are at their maximum absorbency and softness.
Launder towels in warm water (no higher than 40C) and a gentle detergent. You should note that the use of fabric softeners will impair the absorbency of the towel.
A natural fiber such as cotton will benefit from line drying, leaving them smelling fresh and wrinkle free. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove from the tumble dryer promptly after cycle.
Washing Cotton Bed Sheets: Percale Sheets, Cotton Sateen Sheets and Egyptian Cotton Sheets
Cotton percale refers to a closely woven, high thread count combed cotton fabric. Thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads used to create one square inch of fabric. Most people think percale refers to the fabric content, however, it really refers to the weave of the fabric. Cotton percale sheets typically have a thread count of 180 or more and can be easily home laundered. Cotton Percale is known to wash well and last for many years.
Cotton sateen is generally made from combed thread, but uses a finer thread than cotton percale. It is woven differently and generally has a higher thread count than percale as finer threads are used. Cotton sateen sheets have a tendency to lose their sheen after the first washing, due to the type of construction of a sateen weave. However, ironing cotton sateen sheets after washing will immediately smooth the fibers and restore the luster and silkiness of the fabric.
Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.
Egyptian cotton that has undergone a mercerization process is the most durable type of Egyptian cotton. Mercerization is a process whereby a cotton yarn or fabric is passed through a controlled heat atmosphere (termed singeing) and then treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide). This process burns any fuzz off of the cotton yarn and ultimately results in cotton that has a higher luster and dye affinity. Subsequently, repeated washing is less likely to lead to fading, in color or luster, of your mercerized Egyptian cotton sheets. A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.
Always wash your cotton percale sheets, cotton sateen sheets and Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Take care to always use a gentle wash cycle with a cold temperature setting, and a mild detergent. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens.
Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.
Friday, January 2, 2009
How to choose beddings
Here's some tips on how to choose the right bedsheet set :
1. Find out what size and side thickness length of bedding you need.
2. Think about what theme you want. Would you want a simple stripe, polka dots, or a floral design? The color that you prefer?
3. Pay attention to what the sheets you're buying are made out of.
4. Pay attention to the weave of the cotton if you're buying cotton.
5. Check the "thread count" on the label.
6. Most sheet sets come with a fitted sheet / plain sheet, two pillowcases and sometimes also a bolster case. You may also want to buy a quilt cover, blanket or comforter.
7. Washing: Some comforters can be washed in home washing machines if the machine is large enough. Some comforters however may require that you to take them to be dry cleaned or to a laundromat (laundromats tend to have a few larger machines for this purpose.) Be patient and follow the care directions. If washing at home or laundromat, don't use harsh detergents and use the extra rinse cycle. When it comes to drying the comforter in the dryer, toss a tennis ball or two into the dryer with the comforter and allow the comforter to take 3-4 hours to dry.
Tips
* Try not to order from the Internet. Usually, bedding looks different in your room and the Internet.
* Just choose what you like!
* To put your sheets in order and give them a crisp, luxurious hotel feel, take them to the dry cleaners for cleaning and pressing.
1. Find out what size and side thickness length of bedding you need.
2. Think about what theme you want. Would you want a simple stripe, polka dots, or a floral design? The color that you prefer?
3. Pay attention to what the sheets you're buying are made out of.
4. Pay attention to the weave of the cotton if you're buying cotton.
5. Check the "thread count" on the label.
6. Most sheet sets come with a fitted sheet / plain sheet, two pillowcases and sometimes also a bolster case. You may also want to buy a quilt cover, blanket or comforter.
7. Washing: Some comforters can be washed in home washing machines if the machine is large enough. Some comforters however may require that you to take them to be dry cleaned or to a laundromat (laundromats tend to have a few larger machines for this purpose.) Be patient and follow the care directions. If washing at home or laundromat, don't use harsh detergents and use the extra rinse cycle. When it comes to drying the comforter in the dryer, toss a tennis ball or two into the dryer with the comforter and allow the comforter to take 3-4 hours to dry.
Tips
* Try not to order from the Internet. Usually, bedding looks different in your room and the Internet.
* Just choose what you like!
* To put your sheets in order and give them a crisp, luxurious hotel feel, take them to the dry cleaners for cleaning and pressing.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Where to Get Futon
hi, u can try major dept stores like seiyu, taka, tangs, og. there is one small corner selling futon. but not sure if it's wat u r looking for.
mm i got one very alike in Carrefour .. of course not as thick but then just as comfy hee
The last time I manage to buy from XQZT but that was 6 yrs ago
mm i got one very alike in Carrefour .. of course not as thick but then just as comfy hee
The last time I manage to buy from XQZT but that was 6 yrs ago
Bedcare
http://www.allergo.com/bedCareFAQ.html
Can I vacuum my bed with a water-based vacuum cleaner?
Vacuuming with a water-based vacuum cleaner is the worst that you can do for the bed. Third-party medical studies (University of Virginia) have shown that of various vacuum cleaners tested, the water-based vacuum leaked the most allergen.
This is because water is not a good filter - what goes in comes back out. In industrial applications, water filters are mainly used to remove the largest particles (example, sand from sandstorms in desert locations). Water is never used in any commercial applications where the dust is in the submicron level (1 micron = 1/1000th of 1 millimeter). Dust mite allergen is in that category.
While the water-based vacuum may be very expensive, and it may also be unique in various applications (like clearing a clogged sink, or cleaning a wet floor), it should not be used for removing house dust mite allergens. Any dust mites removed by the vacuum will be blown back into the air, where it causes more damage to the allergic individual.
View abstract of Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology study.
Can I vacuum my bed with other vacuums?
The best vacuum that is recommended by medical professionals is one fitted with a True HEPA filter, and with a suction power that is strong enough to reach down through the mattress. Even a True HEPA vacuum without very strong suction will not do the trick. You can find more info on this in the Floorcare section.
If your vacuum is not a True HEPA vacuum, it will leak any dust mite allergens that it picks up from the surface of your bed. This is despite whatever manufacturer claims of filtration efficiency etc. The industry standard is True HEPA, which is the only type of vacuum used where leakage control is very important - namely industrial cleanrooms.
While vacuuming with a good True HEPA vacuum will do the job, any remaining dust mites (e.g. 5% left after vacuuming), can continue to multiply and cause problems. So, regular vacuuming is required, and vacuuming alone does not achieve 100% avoidance.
However, anti-allergen encasings can achieve 100% avoidance as the allergens from within the mattress cannot escape and harm the sleeping individual.
In this case, only the top surface of the anti-allergen encasings need to be vacuumed from time to time.
How about bedding that are treated for dust mites?
Recently, consumer anti-dust mite bedding like bedsheets and pillows have been made available. These are usually treated with chemicals (called acaricides) that kill dust mites, so that dust mites do not thrive in it. While this is a good thing, it is not a permanent measure.
Acaricides have been available for a long time. A consumer version is Acarosan, which has benzyl benzoate as the active agent, and is available as a spray or as a washing additive.
While patients have a choice of using this spray on their existing bed (which is similar to buying chemically pre-treated bedding), this is not recommended for two reasons.
Firstly, although manufacturers claim that their acaricides is harmless, the long term impact of constant skin contact with an acaricide is still unknown. Many people would not like to treat their mattresses and pillows with chemicals. Which is why acaricides are normally recommended for carpets, upholstery and other relatively low-contact environments.
Secondly, even if you use the acaricide, their effectiveness only lasts for a given period. In temperate climates, it may last up to six months. In hot and humid tropical climates like Singapore, it is usually one to three months. If the bedding is not treated again, then mites will continue to grow and multiply.
Are anti-mite mattresses useful?
As in the case of bedding (see previous question), anti-mite mattresses are usually chemically treated. Many people do not like the idea of sleeping on a mattress soaked with an acaricide
One can buy a bottle of Acarosan and spray one's own mattress to achieve the same effect, for a fraction of the cost.
Only that such chemical treatments are short-term, and require a re-treatment within 1 to 3 months to remain effective.
Will any US-made anti-allergen encasing do?
While there are other types of membranes available from the US, Allergy Control™ covers stand out on a few counts:
- it is the only one that has a US FDA Class II Medical Device certification.
- it has been tested by NUH, and the positive results have been published.
- it has the highest breathability in the market, more than ten times that of common polyurethane membranes going by different brand names. And yet the pricing differential is minimal.
- being the pioneer of allergy control covers in 1983, Allergy Control has the longest history.
Will mattress protectors help?
Mattress protectors are cushioned sheets that are placed in between the mattress and bed sheets. They help absorb any night soiling and adds cushion comfort.
However, they are useless against dust mites. This is because they are made of fabric, with filling inside. Dust mites will penetrate the fabric and filling, making the mattress protector itself an ideal breeding ground for dust mites.
Can't I just sun my mattresses and pillows?
Clinical tests published in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology has shown that sunning bedding had little effect on controlling mite population. The best patient action is still to encase the bedding items with anti-allergen encasings.
Friday, July 11, 2008
How to cut through the marketing gimmicks of Sealy, Serta, and the rest.
Going to the Mattresses How to cut through the marketing gimmicks of Sealy, Serta, and the rest.
By Seth Stevenson
Posted Thursday, Nov. 23, 2000, at 2:30 AM ET
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Here's a fun game I play. First, I walk into a mattress store and ask what's on sale. Then, I throw my hands in the air and shout along with the salesman, "EVERYTHING'S ON SALE!!!!" Oh how we laugh, the salesman and I. And while he's still chuckling, I turn around and walk out, because I fricking hate mattress salesmen.
Is there a more maddening industry? They confuse us with silly product names (the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Fletcher Ultra Plush Pillowtop or the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Brookmere Plush?). They flummox us with bogus science ("pocketed coils"? "Microtek foundations"? "Fiberlux"?). And they weigh us down with useless features (silk damask ticking?). It's like buying a used car, and almost as expensive—I've seen mattresses going for $7,000. What's a consumer to do?
Click Here!
The secret to mattress shopping is that the product is basically a commodity. The mattress biz is 99-percent marketing. So just buy the cheapest thing you can stand and be done with it, because they're pretty much all the same. And that's all you need to know. But do read on—the world of sleep products is quite fascinating, and I'd like to share it with you.
What's the Best Brand?
Innerspring mattresses, particularly the Big S's (Simmons, Serta, Sealy), dominate the market. But how to choose among Serta and Sealy, Stearns and Foster, and King Koil? Or for that matter, between the Simmons Beautyrest Exceptionale Lenore and the Simmons Beautyrest Do-Not-Disturb Royalty Ultra?
Here's the lowdown: Mattress makers rename identical products for each different retail store. Different labels, exact same guts. Why? Obfuscation. It's hard to shop for the lowest price when you can't compare apples to apples. Lucky for you, they're all subtle variations on the same apple—not only within each brand, but even among different brands.
The heart of an innerspring mattress is the coils. Otherwise it's just foam, cotton, quilting, and stitches. But the big-name mattress makers (with some exceptions) all get their coils from a single company, Leggett and Platt, for their highest-end mattresses down to their lowest. This is akin to every single car on the market, Lamborghinis to Kias, using an engine made by Ford. Except that mattresses are far less complicated than cars. In fact, they're so simple that there's no real difference among them at all.
Upshot: Ignore brand names. They're meaningless. Just pay attention to comfort. Which leads us to our next question:
How Firm Should My Mattress Be?
Herein lies the central mattress paradox. You sleep on coils because they're softer than the floor, but you still want good, firm coils, but then you put foam padding on top to soften the coils, but you still want the foam to be dense, and then finally you put a strong box spring underneath for just a tiny bit of give. All this shuttling back and forth on the scale of firmness—why not just start with the firmness you like, and then stop? My favorite mattress name encapsulates the paradox: Simmons Beautyrest World Class Granite Plush. Granite Plush???
Let's break down each mattress feature that creates firmness, or softness, or both.
Coil Counts and Wire Guages: When I began, coil counts and wire guages seemed the key to everything. I talked to several bedding journalists who had desperately sought these numbers from the mattress makers, but had long failed to penetrate the shroud of secrecy. I figured these stats were the empirical measure: More and thicker coils mean fuller and better support. But I soon found it's not that simple. Some mattresses use more coils but thinner-gauge wire. Some use thicker wire but fewer coils. And everyone uses radically different configurations that make comparisons meaningless.
Larry Thomas of Furniture Today—a man described to me as "the guru of the bedding industry"—told me coil counts are "overrated" and "not a good indicator." Yes, if you pay more, you'll get a theoretically better coil design, but better enough to feel a difference? I sure couldn't. Not even between two mattresses thousands of dollars apart in price. So don't worry about the stats—worry about the comfort.
Pillowtops: Pillowtops are soft layers of foam (or cotton, or wool) sewn to the top of the mattress. They're hugely popular. They add hundreds of dollars to your purchase. They are, in my opinion, a massive rip-off. You can re-create their effect with a few cheap egg-crate foam pads. And why spend all that money on springs just to dampen their affect with a giant pillow? If you really want to sleep on foam or cotton, buy a foam or cotton mattress.
Thickness: A recent fad. Some Stearns and Foster (a brand owned by Sealy) mattresses I saw measured about 2 feet thick (and cost $5,000). It looked like they sewed a futon on top of an innerspring. Experts I talked to say thickness is just a ploy: It makes beds look comfy in the showroom. If you notice a difference, mazel tov, but thickness isn't vital to a good bed. You can achieve the same feel with less height (and weight—some mattresses weigh more than 200 pounds and are tough to carry up the stairs).
Mattresses have gotten so thick recently that people are complaining they can't see their headboards. Actual industry response: They made the box-springs thinner. Which of course leads us to ...
Box Springs: I find them wholly unnecessary. Think about it: Presumably, you could put a box spring under your box spring for even more "give" and "support." Another box spring under those two. Where do you draw the line? Also, remember that box springs add significantly to your cost. One reasonable argument I heard for them is that they save wear on your mattress, but I had no way to prove or disprove this.
Many Europeans use platform beds without box springs. Do you hear them complaining? I don't use a box spring, and I don't miss it. It's a princess/pea thing. If you need 17 layers, OK. If you only need one, don't buy a box spring, unless you don't like platforms and can't think of anything better to put your mattress on. My recommendation: Put your mattress on the floor—it saves money on nightstands. Give in to gravity!
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Is a Firm Mattress Best for My Back?
I asked an orthopedic surgeon at something called the National Foundation for Spinal Health. He said a mattress should support you in the "position of function"—the normal curve of your spine when you're standing up. When a mattress flattens the curve (too firm), or exaggerates it (too soft), bingo: back pain. According to him, a supportive innerspring works better than foam, air, or water. The NFSH recommends: the Simmons Back Care mattress. Problem solved, let's go home, yes? No! I soon discovered the NFSH takes money from companies, including, especially, Simmons! Sketchy! Next orthopedic surgeon, please.
This second guy was independent and no longer practicing. He debunked the myth that firm mattresses are best. They are if you get acute back spasms, but for regular back pain your mattress doesn't make much difference. "The back is a complicated structure," he said. "Back pain has a lot to do with how you're built, but not a lot to do with your mattress." So you don't have to feel guilty about buying a soft, cushy mattress. It doesn't make a difference. (Regional trivia: Firm mattresses sell more in the Northeast [you penitent yankees, you!], while soft wins out in the South.)
Do I Need All Those Extra Features?
No. Screw 'em. For instance ...
Ticking and Quilting: People often buy based on how a mattress looks in the store. This is moronic. You're going to spread a sheet over it the second you get home. Belgian damask? Really, now.
No-Flip Designs: Manufacturers say to flip your mattress every three months. It's even in some warranties. Yet this year's Simmons Beautyrest 2000 boasts a "no flip" design. And it's selling like hotcakes (for which flipping, incidentally, remains compulsory). Why? People love work-saving innovations—we're too lazy to flip. But what does it really mean? It means there's block foam on one side instead of something you could sleep on. And it means if there's a stain or a rip on the sleeping side, you're SOL. They should have called it the "can't flip" design. It's like a "No Oil Change" car that's simply had the dipstick and cap soldered in place.
Warranties: Almost any problem from normal use (which is all the warranties cover) will happen in the first month or so. Ignore the 10- and 20-year coverage. Just make sure there's a solid, 30- or 60-day return policy. That's important not only if the mattress is defective, but if you plain don't like it upon further review.
What About Foam, Air, Water, and Latex?
These legendary "four elements" of classical mythology can also be mattresses. Viscoelastic "memory" foam is popular now. I tried the Tempurpedic brand and loved it—it melts to fit your form. But I wouldn't spend $1,500 for a mattress, no matter how Swedish it is.
Select Comfort air mattresses have sold big lately (though innerspring sales still dwarf everything else, owning more than 80 percent of the market). I didn't like the feeling of air, even though I could adjust the firmness with a remote-controlled pump. When you compress it with your weight, air doesn't seem to have as much give as foam. And it felt like I was camping. These start at $550 for a queen-size.
Waterbeds have hung around (still half of all specialty mattress sales), but I couldn't find one out on display to test. And they give me the yips a little.
Finally, an independent mattress manufacturer I talked to swore that latex makes the best mattresses. (Coincidentally, he makes latex mattresses.) I tried a latex bed, and it didn't feel very different from a firm innerspring, but that's me.
Futons?
Sure, why not? They're cheaper, partly because there's no box spring. But what is a futon these days, anyway? The definition has essentially devolved into "it bends." They even make innerspring futons, now. At the same time, real innerspring beds keep stacking on the foam and cotton, emulating futons of yore.
Conclusion
If you can't tell the difference between a $200 and a $900 mattress (I couldn't, but maybe you can), get the cheaper one. They're nearly the same, anyway. Anything over $1,500 and you're just paying for prestige, says Larry Thomas. There are tons of great mattress sets for low prices. Yes, to an extent, you get what you pay for (better coil design, denser foam, ritzier ticking), but don't go crazy over this stuff. Lie down on mattesses in the store and trust your own judgment. Remember: Once you're asleep, every mattress feels the same.
Reader Comments from The Fray:
[Notes from the Fray Editor: A special, once-every-four-years-if-then subset from the Fray: messages that combine politics and tips on buying mattresses. Two excellent ones showed the way here ("how nice to read an article not on the election, and by the way Mr Gore…") and here ("I'll be tossing and turning the next four years"). We also had a sneaking liking for this one: "Lincoln Bedroom mattress found stuffed with chads from past elections". And someone who said he had the perfect mattress only wanted to reveal its make to those who shared his political views.
George explains here how he made a bed very cheaply, though there seems some doubt whether he wants it to be comfortable ("I don't want this friend to stay more than two weeks, two weeks is more than enough.") He was one of several readers, including Clawhead below, who shared bed-buying stories and revealed in passing details of their lives. We were charmed.
We do not know if S.L. Brown's post falls into the life-details or politics category, or even the irony category. You decide. It was posted the day after Thanksgiving. Gordon W-K is from Australia and industrious Frayteam research revealed that a doona is an Aussie name for a duvet or comforter. His final sentence is undoubtedly the Fray question of the week.]
I found this article so interesting that I sent a copy of it to my friends and relatives. Maybe now they'll come up with better dinner conversation.
--S.L.Brown
(To reply, click here.)
My ad agency once pitched a big mattress retailer. We learned they had at least five prices for every mattress. Obviously, you can dicker your way to a better deal. Just keep at it. These guys make used car salesmen look like boy scouts.
--Rob
(To reply, click here.)
Seth Stevenson's right about ignoring mattress salesmen and listening instead to your back. The problem is, you can't really try out a mattress in three minutes. You need to give it at least a few nights. Also, I suspect Seth is under 40. Otherwise his back would be more particular. When I was 21, I spent nearly two weeks sleeping on a the rear seat of a Fiat (it was in a friend's living room, not in the Fiat). No complaints, then. Now I can't imagine doing that. At some point in my body's gradual deterioration, mattress quality starting becoming embarrassingly important. I've tried a lot of mattresses, but finally found a $200 mattress, made by a small-time manufacturer in North Carolina, that was far superior to a $800 name-brand mattress I had bought earlier.
--Clawhead
(To reply, click here.)
Bedding journalists? I mean really! I know there are a lot of journalists about, but are there really specialist "bedding journalists"? Who are these people anyway? Do they have annual conventions in big hotels? Do they microspecialise into (say) pillowslips or maybe frilly covers? Who edits the erudite journals of bedding criticism?
And their heroes, the Dorothy Parkers and W.H. Audens of bedding--who are they? Has the doona columnist for the NYT ever won a Pulitzer Prize? Ever had to issue a solemn retraction (fast U-turn between the sheets?). Ever been carpeted by the editor? (Whoops, sorry, that's Floor Coverings, try Harry on the third floor.)
Perhaps one could refer to a highly experienced bedding journalist, one who has been & seen it all, as "our hard-bitten pillow correspondent". Until of course he's put to work investigating stains on the presidential comforter; then he becomes "our man on the spot".
I guess the only real question to be asked is this: What possible journalistic crime could be so heinous, so unforgivable, so indescribably embarrassing to one's employer as to condemn one to a life of writing ensemble pieces covering the coverlets?
--Gordon W-K
By Seth Stevenson
Posted Thursday, Nov. 23, 2000, at 2:30 AM ET
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Here's a fun game I play. First, I walk into a mattress store and ask what's on sale. Then, I throw my hands in the air and shout along with the salesman, "EVERYTHING'S ON SALE!!!!" Oh how we laugh, the salesman and I. And while he's still chuckling, I turn around and walk out, because I fricking hate mattress salesmen.
Is there a more maddening industry? They confuse us with silly product names (the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Fletcher Ultra Plush Pillowtop or the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Brookmere Plush?). They flummox us with bogus science ("pocketed coils"? "Microtek foundations"? "Fiberlux"?). And they weigh us down with useless features (silk damask ticking?). It's like buying a used car, and almost as expensive—I've seen mattresses going for $7,000. What's a consumer to do?
Click Here!
The secret to mattress shopping is that the product is basically a commodity. The mattress biz is 99-percent marketing. So just buy the cheapest thing you can stand and be done with it, because they're pretty much all the same. And that's all you need to know. But do read on—the world of sleep products is quite fascinating, and I'd like to share it with you.
What's the Best Brand?
Innerspring mattresses, particularly the Big S's (Simmons, Serta, Sealy), dominate the market. But how to choose among Serta and Sealy, Stearns and Foster, and King Koil? Or for that matter, between the Simmons Beautyrest Exceptionale Lenore and the Simmons Beautyrest Do-Not-Disturb Royalty Ultra?
Here's the lowdown: Mattress makers rename identical products for each different retail store. Different labels, exact same guts. Why? Obfuscation. It's hard to shop for the lowest price when you can't compare apples to apples. Lucky for you, they're all subtle variations on the same apple—not only within each brand, but even among different brands.
The heart of an innerspring mattress is the coils. Otherwise it's just foam, cotton, quilting, and stitches. But the big-name mattress makers (with some exceptions) all get their coils from a single company, Leggett and Platt, for their highest-end mattresses down to their lowest. This is akin to every single car on the market, Lamborghinis to Kias, using an engine made by Ford. Except that mattresses are far less complicated than cars. In fact, they're so simple that there's no real difference among them at all.
Upshot: Ignore brand names. They're meaningless. Just pay attention to comfort. Which leads us to our next question:
How Firm Should My Mattress Be?
Herein lies the central mattress paradox. You sleep on coils because they're softer than the floor, but you still want good, firm coils, but then you put foam padding on top to soften the coils, but you still want the foam to be dense, and then finally you put a strong box spring underneath for just a tiny bit of give. All this shuttling back and forth on the scale of firmness—why not just start with the firmness you like, and then stop? My favorite mattress name encapsulates the paradox: Simmons Beautyrest World Class Granite Plush. Granite Plush???
Let's break down each mattress feature that creates firmness, or softness, or both.
Coil Counts and Wire Guages: When I began, coil counts and wire guages seemed the key to everything. I talked to several bedding journalists who had desperately sought these numbers from the mattress makers, but had long failed to penetrate the shroud of secrecy. I figured these stats were the empirical measure: More and thicker coils mean fuller and better support. But I soon found it's not that simple. Some mattresses use more coils but thinner-gauge wire. Some use thicker wire but fewer coils. And everyone uses radically different configurations that make comparisons meaningless.
Larry Thomas of Furniture Today—a man described to me as "the guru of the bedding industry"—told me coil counts are "overrated" and "not a good indicator." Yes, if you pay more, you'll get a theoretically better coil design, but better enough to feel a difference? I sure couldn't. Not even between two mattresses thousands of dollars apart in price. So don't worry about the stats—worry about the comfort.
Pillowtops: Pillowtops are soft layers of foam (or cotton, or wool) sewn to the top of the mattress. They're hugely popular. They add hundreds of dollars to your purchase. They are, in my opinion, a massive rip-off. You can re-create their effect with a few cheap egg-crate foam pads. And why spend all that money on springs just to dampen their affect with a giant pillow? If you really want to sleep on foam or cotton, buy a foam or cotton mattress.
Thickness: A recent fad. Some Stearns and Foster (a brand owned by Sealy) mattresses I saw measured about 2 feet thick (and cost $5,000). It looked like they sewed a futon on top of an innerspring. Experts I talked to say thickness is just a ploy: It makes beds look comfy in the showroom. If you notice a difference, mazel tov, but thickness isn't vital to a good bed. You can achieve the same feel with less height (and weight—some mattresses weigh more than 200 pounds and are tough to carry up the stairs).
Mattresses have gotten so thick recently that people are complaining they can't see their headboards. Actual industry response: They made the box-springs thinner. Which of course leads us to ...
Box Springs: I find them wholly unnecessary. Think about it: Presumably, you could put a box spring under your box spring for even more "give" and "support." Another box spring under those two. Where do you draw the line? Also, remember that box springs add significantly to your cost. One reasonable argument I heard for them is that they save wear on your mattress, but I had no way to prove or disprove this.
Many Europeans use platform beds without box springs. Do you hear them complaining? I don't use a box spring, and I don't miss it. It's a princess/pea thing. If you need 17 layers, OK. If you only need one, don't buy a box spring, unless you don't like platforms and can't think of anything better to put your mattress on. My recommendation: Put your mattress on the floor—it saves money on nightstands. Give in to gravity!
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Is a Firm Mattress Best for My Back?
I asked an orthopedic surgeon at something called the National Foundation for Spinal Health. He said a mattress should support you in the "position of function"—the normal curve of your spine when you're standing up. When a mattress flattens the curve (too firm), or exaggerates it (too soft), bingo: back pain. According to him, a supportive innerspring works better than foam, air, or water. The NFSH recommends: the Simmons Back Care mattress. Problem solved, let's go home, yes? No! I soon discovered the NFSH takes money from companies, including, especially, Simmons! Sketchy! Next orthopedic surgeon, please.
This second guy was independent and no longer practicing. He debunked the myth that firm mattresses are best. They are if you get acute back spasms, but for regular back pain your mattress doesn't make much difference. "The back is a complicated structure," he said. "Back pain has a lot to do with how you're built, but not a lot to do with your mattress." So you don't have to feel guilty about buying a soft, cushy mattress. It doesn't make a difference. (Regional trivia: Firm mattresses sell more in the Northeast [you penitent yankees, you!], while soft wins out in the South.)
Do I Need All Those Extra Features?
No. Screw 'em. For instance ...
Ticking and Quilting: People often buy based on how a mattress looks in the store. This is moronic. You're going to spread a sheet over it the second you get home. Belgian damask? Really, now.
No-Flip Designs: Manufacturers say to flip your mattress every three months. It's even in some warranties. Yet this year's Simmons Beautyrest 2000 boasts a "no flip" design. And it's selling like hotcakes (for which flipping, incidentally, remains compulsory). Why? People love work-saving innovations—we're too lazy to flip. But what does it really mean? It means there's block foam on one side instead of something you could sleep on. And it means if there's a stain or a rip on the sleeping side, you're SOL. They should have called it the "can't flip" design. It's like a "No Oil Change" car that's simply had the dipstick and cap soldered in place.
Warranties: Almost any problem from normal use (which is all the warranties cover) will happen in the first month or so. Ignore the 10- and 20-year coverage. Just make sure there's a solid, 30- or 60-day return policy. That's important not only if the mattress is defective, but if you plain don't like it upon further review.
What About Foam, Air, Water, and Latex?
These legendary "four elements" of classical mythology can also be mattresses. Viscoelastic "memory" foam is popular now. I tried the Tempurpedic brand and loved it—it melts to fit your form. But I wouldn't spend $1,500 for a mattress, no matter how Swedish it is.
Select Comfort air mattresses have sold big lately (though innerspring sales still dwarf everything else, owning more than 80 percent of the market). I didn't like the feeling of air, even though I could adjust the firmness with a remote-controlled pump. When you compress it with your weight, air doesn't seem to have as much give as foam. And it felt like I was camping. These start at $550 for a queen-size.
Waterbeds have hung around (still half of all specialty mattress sales), but I couldn't find one out on display to test. And they give me the yips a little.
Finally, an independent mattress manufacturer I talked to swore that latex makes the best mattresses. (Coincidentally, he makes latex mattresses.) I tried a latex bed, and it didn't feel very different from a firm innerspring, but that's me.
Futons?
Sure, why not? They're cheaper, partly because there's no box spring. But what is a futon these days, anyway? The definition has essentially devolved into "it bends." They even make innerspring futons, now. At the same time, real innerspring beds keep stacking on the foam and cotton, emulating futons of yore.
Conclusion
If you can't tell the difference between a $200 and a $900 mattress (I couldn't, but maybe you can), get the cheaper one. They're nearly the same, anyway. Anything over $1,500 and you're just paying for prestige, says Larry Thomas. There are tons of great mattress sets for low prices. Yes, to an extent, you get what you pay for (better coil design, denser foam, ritzier ticking), but don't go crazy over this stuff. Lie down on mattesses in the store and trust your own judgment. Remember: Once you're asleep, every mattress feels the same.
Reader Comments from The Fray:
[Notes from the Fray Editor: A special, once-every-four-years-if-then subset from the Fray: messages that combine politics and tips on buying mattresses. Two excellent ones showed the way here ("how nice to read an article not on the election, and by the way Mr Gore…") and here ("I'll be tossing and turning the next four years"). We also had a sneaking liking for this one: "Lincoln Bedroom mattress found stuffed with chads from past elections". And someone who said he had the perfect mattress only wanted to reveal its make to those who shared his political views.
George explains here how he made a bed very cheaply, though there seems some doubt whether he wants it to be comfortable ("I don't want this friend to stay more than two weeks, two weeks is more than enough.") He was one of several readers, including Clawhead below, who shared bed-buying stories and revealed in passing details of their lives. We were charmed.
We do not know if S.L. Brown's post falls into the life-details or politics category, or even the irony category. You decide. It was posted the day after Thanksgiving. Gordon W-K is from Australia and industrious Frayteam research revealed that a doona is an Aussie name for a duvet or comforter. His final sentence is undoubtedly the Fray question of the week.]
I found this article so interesting that I sent a copy of it to my friends and relatives. Maybe now they'll come up with better dinner conversation.
--S.L.Brown
(To reply, click here.)
My ad agency once pitched a big mattress retailer. We learned they had at least five prices for every mattress. Obviously, you can dicker your way to a better deal. Just keep at it. These guys make used car salesmen look like boy scouts.
--Rob
(To reply, click here.)
Seth Stevenson's right about ignoring mattress salesmen and listening instead to your back. The problem is, you can't really try out a mattress in three minutes. You need to give it at least a few nights. Also, I suspect Seth is under 40. Otherwise his back would be more particular. When I was 21, I spent nearly two weeks sleeping on a the rear seat of a Fiat (it was in a friend's living room, not in the Fiat). No complaints, then. Now I can't imagine doing that. At some point in my body's gradual deterioration, mattress quality starting becoming embarrassingly important. I've tried a lot of mattresses, but finally found a $200 mattress, made by a small-time manufacturer in North Carolina, that was far superior to a $800 name-brand mattress I had bought earlier.
--Clawhead
(To reply, click here.)
Bedding journalists? I mean really! I know there are a lot of journalists about, but are there really specialist "bedding journalists"? Who are these people anyway? Do they have annual conventions in big hotels? Do they microspecialise into (say) pillowslips or maybe frilly covers? Who edits the erudite journals of bedding criticism?
And their heroes, the Dorothy Parkers and W.H. Audens of bedding--who are they? Has the doona columnist for the NYT ever won a Pulitzer Prize? Ever had to issue a solemn retraction (fast U-turn between the sheets?). Ever been carpeted by the editor? (Whoops, sorry, that's Floor Coverings, try Harry on the third floor.)
Perhaps one could refer to a highly experienced bedding journalist, one who has been & seen it all, as "our hard-bitten pillow correspondent". Until of course he's put to work investigating stains on the presidential comforter; then he becomes "our man on the spot".
I guess the only real question to be asked is this: What possible journalistic crime could be so heinous, so unforgivable, so indescribably embarrassing to one's employer as to condemn one to a life of writing ensemble pieces covering the coverlets?
--Gordon W-K
Mattress : More than coil count, and other notes
More than coil count, and other notes
Apr 11 '01
The Bottom Line How firm? Pillow top? Coil comparisons? Warranties? Everything makes a difference.
The number of coils in an innerspring mattress plays a very large part in the support you receive. But other factors come into play, also, which the cutaway sample will help to show you.
How large are the coils? Are they about 2" in diameter (about standard), or larger? The NUMBER of coils will not be comparable if those coils are 3-4" in diameter.
How heavy a gauge of wire are the coils? A heavy gauge wire can give more support and/or durability than a thinner wire can.
How are the coils connected? Some mattresses have individually pocketed coils, which will give more individualized response when used. Coils that have the most weight on them may wear out quicker than the rest of the mattress coils, leaving a mushy spot. Some mattresses connect their coils with wires at various spacing, some in only one direction (across) and some both across the width and length of the mattress. More connection can give a more flat, level feel, distributing weight more evenly.
The edge wire is another factor, especially if you are an edge sleeper. Heavier is stronger, and gives the coil connecting wires a stronger base. This also helps support when you sit on the edge of the bed. Mattresses often have special supporting foam along the outside edge.
Notes on pillow tops:
They are lovely. They feel soft and comfy. They add price to your mattress. They also eventually will compress and develop 'ruts' with use, and are excluded from the warranty. You can get the same effect by using a simple 'waffle pad' or 'egg crate' pad, or a 'featherbed' type mattress pad. Then, should they wear out or become soiled, they can easily be replaced.
How firm should I get?
Most people with back problems are recommended to use the firmest they can buy. If you don't know for sure, or only one of you likes a firm (very firm, extra firm, rock hard) mattress, get the firmest you desire and then use the 'featherbed' or 'egg crate' type mattress pads (or both) to add softness. If possible, of course, try out the mattress first - but allow at least 1-2 weeks to evaluate it, since your body may take a little adjusting to it.
Many of us use a minimal rule of thumb when testing mattresses, by placing a knee on the mattress and leaning into it to test the firmness. Trust what you feel, not just the label.
How about warranties? Like most things, the warranties often only cover manufacturer's defects, and not the longevity of the mattress. How many years replacement, and how many years prorated? Also, many warranties require that you send the mattress back to them for their inspection. I can't even begin to think how to ship a King size mattress. And stores go out of business or move, and often are no help when they are still there.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
Apr 11 '01
The Bottom Line How firm? Pillow top? Coil comparisons? Warranties? Everything makes a difference.
The number of coils in an innerspring mattress plays a very large part in the support you receive. But other factors come into play, also, which the cutaway sample will help to show you.
How large are the coils? Are they about 2" in diameter (about standard), or larger? The NUMBER of coils will not be comparable if those coils are 3-4" in diameter.
How heavy a gauge of wire are the coils? A heavy gauge wire can give more support and/or durability than a thinner wire can.
How are the coils connected? Some mattresses have individually pocketed coils, which will give more individualized response when used. Coils that have the most weight on them may wear out quicker than the rest of the mattress coils, leaving a mushy spot. Some mattresses connect their coils with wires at various spacing, some in only one direction (across) and some both across the width and length of the mattress. More connection can give a more flat, level feel, distributing weight more evenly.
The edge wire is another factor, especially if you are an edge sleeper. Heavier is stronger, and gives the coil connecting wires a stronger base. This also helps support when you sit on the edge of the bed. Mattresses often have special supporting foam along the outside edge.
Notes on pillow tops:
They are lovely. They feel soft and comfy. They add price to your mattress. They also eventually will compress and develop 'ruts' with use, and are excluded from the warranty. You can get the same effect by using a simple 'waffle pad' or 'egg crate' pad, or a 'featherbed' type mattress pad. Then, should they wear out or become soiled, they can easily be replaced.
How firm should I get?
Most people with back problems are recommended to use the firmest they can buy. If you don't know for sure, or only one of you likes a firm (very firm, extra firm, rock hard) mattress, get the firmest you desire and then use the 'featherbed' or 'egg crate' type mattress pads (or both) to add softness. If possible, of course, try out the mattress first - but allow at least 1-2 weeks to evaluate it, since your body may take a little adjusting to it.
Many of us use a minimal rule of thumb when testing mattresses, by placing a knee on the mattress and leaning into it to test the firmness. Trust what you feel, not just the label.
How about warranties? Like most things, the warranties often only cover manufacturer's defects, and not the longevity of the mattress. How many years replacement, and how many years prorated? Also, many warranties require that you send the mattress back to them for their inspection. I can't even begin to think how to ship a King size mattress. And stores go out of business or move, and often are no help when they are still there.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
Mattress : It's What's On the Inside That Counts
It's What's On the Inside That Counts
Mar 16 '01
The Bottom Line Understand coil count and coil strength. Don't blindly trust brand names!
Buying a mattress has to be one of the hardest things you can do as a consumer. You watch slick t.v. adds with counting sheep and associate a brand name with a quality mattress. As a furniture retailer, however, I have found that much of the time what you're really paying for is for that name, rather than a true quality mattress.
One of the most important factors in buying a mattresses is learning the coil count and relative strength of those coils (how thick a gauge steel those coils are). If you go into a mattress store (most exclusive bedding stores are owned by the manufacturers themselves these days--which is why they can guarantee the lowest price on their particular brand of mattresses), a non-brand mattress of equal quality is going to run you probably HALF as much (at least on what I sell).
A "basic" mattress is going to be considered a "312 coil" unit. This works perfect for children, guest bedrooms, and anyone on a fixed income or tight budget. The bigger units run between 500-700 coils. The more coils, the better support your back is going to get, and the less strain each individual coil is going to receive--meaning longer life. Spring Air makes a mattress with 1000 coils, right now the highest coil count mattress you can buy.
Pay attention to whether you're getting a "foundation" or a "box spring." A foundation is nothing more than a wooden frame the mattress sits on--its sole function to set the mattress up to a decent height. A box spring is a wooden frame with actual coils in it--that gives a little when you put weight on it. You can quickly tell the difference between a foundation and a box spring by slipping your foot in between the mattress and the box and stepping down a bit. If it gives, you've got a box spring, if it doesn't you've got a foundation. The jury really is still out on what is better. The higher priced mattresses are going to be built with their box springs in mind--and you probably won't have a choice. In all reality, it's not going to make that much of a difference in the long haul and will probably save you a few bucks if you're budget minded.
I laughed when I saw epinions trying to rate mattresses. The manufacturers have SO MANY models within the particular names (like Spring Air's Back Supporters and Four Seasons) that someone with a 312 coil "Back Supporter" may be giving that mattress horrible reviews, while someone with a higher end unit giving it rave reviews. When shopping, disreguard tags and names. The big names make great higher end mattresses, and that will give you a starting point. The key is to lay on the mattresses-being blind to the names or the tags and make a decision based upon how it feels to you.
A word on "Pillowtop" mattresses. They are great. They are comfortable. On mid-priced models, they amount to nothing more than eggcrate foam sown into the cover (which you can buy at Wal-mart). The higher end models do offer more comfort and support than you could imitate, however. So pay attention. Look for a cutaway, showing you what your mattress looks on the inside.
Though slightly off topic I thought I'd throw this in. On warranties, make sure your salesperson knows about the warranty for your mattress and goes over it with you BEFORE you buy it. Ask about the return policy if you get it home and it doesn't work out.
With all this in mind, go out and HAVE FUN trying out mattresses. Like anything, a mattress is an investment in your quality of life. Buy a cheap mattress and you may save a few dollars now, but it is going to wear out sooner than later, and you're going to pay for it every night when your back starts hurting. If you buy a nice enough mattress you won't have to think about replacing it for quite some time, and you will enjoy every night on it.
Mar 16 '01
The Bottom Line Understand coil count and coil strength. Don't blindly trust brand names!
Buying a mattress has to be one of the hardest things you can do as a consumer. You watch slick t.v. adds with counting sheep and associate a brand name with a quality mattress. As a furniture retailer, however, I have found that much of the time what you're really paying for is for that name, rather than a true quality mattress.
One of the most important factors in buying a mattresses is learning the coil count and relative strength of those coils (how thick a gauge steel those coils are). If you go into a mattress store (most exclusive bedding stores are owned by the manufacturers themselves these days--which is why they can guarantee the lowest price on their particular brand of mattresses), a non-brand mattress of equal quality is going to run you probably HALF as much (at least on what I sell).
A "basic" mattress is going to be considered a "312 coil" unit. This works perfect for children, guest bedrooms, and anyone on a fixed income or tight budget. The bigger units run between 500-700 coils. The more coils, the better support your back is going to get, and the less strain each individual coil is going to receive--meaning longer life. Spring Air makes a mattress with 1000 coils, right now the highest coil count mattress you can buy.
Pay attention to whether you're getting a "foundation" or a "box spring." A foundation is nothing more than a wooden frame the mattress sits on--its sole function to set the mattress up to a decent height. A box spring is a wooden frame with actual coils in it--that gives a little when you put weight on it. You can quickly tell the difference between a foundation and a box spring by slipping your foot in between the mattress and the box and stepping down a bit. If it gives, you've got a box spring, if it doesn't you've got a foundation. The jury really is still out on what is better. The higher priced mattresses are going to be built with their box springs in mind--and you probably won't have a choice. In all reality, it's not going to make that much of a difference in the long haul and will probably save you a few bucks if you're budget minded.
I laughed when I saw epinions trying to rate mattresses. The manufacturers have SO MANY models within the particular names (like Spring Air's Back Supporters and Four Seasons) that someone with a 312 coil "Back Supporter" may be giving that mattress horrible reviews, while someone with a higher end unit giving it rave reviews. When shopping, disreguard tags and names. The big names make great higher end mattresses, and that will give you a starting point. The key is to lay on the mattresses-being blind to the names or the tags and make a decision based upon how it feels to you.
A word on "Pillowtop" mattresses. They are great. They are comfortable. On mid-priced models, they amount to nothing more than eggcrate foam sown into the cover (which you can buy at Wal-mart). The higher end models do offer more comfort and support than you could imitate, however. So pay attention. Look for a cutaway, showing you what your mattress looks on the inside.
Though slightly off topic I thought I'd throw this in. On warranties, make sure your salesperson knows about the warranty for your mattress and goes over it with you BEFORE you buy it. Ask about the return policy if you get it home and it doesn't work out.
With all this in mind, go out and HAVE FUN trying out mattresses. Like anything, a mattress is an investment in your quality of life. Buy a cheap mattress and you may save a few dollars now, but it is going to wear out sooner than later, and you're going to pay for it every night when your back starts hurting. If you buy a nice enough mattress you won't have to think about replacing it for quite some time, and you will enjoy every night on it.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Popular Posts
-
Wall tiles refinished (without the hacking works) in custom-blended creamish almond colour. Views of bedroom passageway: Paint colour: Mag...
-
1. Hong Liang 2. Lee Meng trading 3. Mega Discount Store @ Katong Mall (look for Veron) 1) MEGA DISCOUNT STORE PTE LTD Add: 112 East Coast R...
-
make a call to James at Hong Liang (Alexandra), Alice at Kong Tai (Jurong West) or Lewis Goh of Mega DIscount (Katong Mall) and compare the ...
-
Kitchen Countertops, Counter Top Solid Surface, Quartz Surface, Resin & Glass Options --a comprehensive list of options ...
-
When designing a lighting plan for a living room or family room, you need to consider the variety of activities that occur there. You'll...
-
1. Rozel by JKL Furnishing, L2-L4, Blk E, Complex Lian Hoe, Taman Sentosa. Tel: 07-3358850 2. Lot, L2-JA5, Southern City Hypermarket, No. 3,...
-
Going to the Mattresses How to cut through the marketing gimmicks of Sealy, Serta, and the rest. By Seth Stevenson Posted Thursday, Nov. 23,...
Posts
