Solar Film : Ecotint

my house has a south west orientation...it is hot with the evening sun. what i did was i tinted all my bedroom windows using ecotint. it made a lot of a difference...for example, it takes a lot quicker to cool down my room at night

Door Grille

Aluminium is good for it's corrosion resistance. But is easy to saw through.

Wrought iron can do intricate shapes, and gives the old look. The heat treatment allows for high strengh with a low width profile.

If want aluminium look, but with security, then shd consider mild steel hollow sections, with galvanised, and then powder coated. Will cost more, but is the best combination. This is not normally offerred by contractors cos is very process intensive, but this is what the big boys would specify in tender specs.

Untreated iron.. rusts.. really blends in with the rustic look if that's the intention. But have to be mindful of rust stains on the floor.

My view is that gate.. is something functional (security) as well as something u touch and use everyday. Also, it's something that visitors first see.. sets the impression of the home owner. Thus.. this is one thing me no think should be cheapo about. If do something unique.. can be a talking point for visitors. I thnk wrought iron is quite risky.. cos if not heat treated/forged properly.. will rust easily.

in fact the wrought iron gate can customise the design u wan. As long u can provide ur sleek design and so on, it will looks good. Do take note that wrought iron is more durable than aluminium. Cos what I know is that alu is hollow inside, thus easy to saw thr.

juz to settle the myth once & for all,the price differences for the same wrought iron item depends on whether its is galvanised or not.galvanising is a process to prevent the gate from rusting by applying a coat onto the iron under certain temperatures.those cheaper range of gates u see will normally start to rust in no time at all as they have not been treated.

to put it in a toungue in cheek way,its wrought iron u are buying & not "wrought stainless steel"

Galvanised is the word.theres actually a way to tell if it is galvanised or not.non-galvanised wrought iron normally feels smoother while galvanised ones feels rougher.other than tat,theres no other visual indication to tell between the two.

Window : Solar Film

Hi all interested in solar films,
just met the vkool guy. Quite nice, got a free folder and film samples even.
Anyway, the high end vkool films are pretty well, high priced as well... ranging from $9-15 psf. Will prob cost as much as ur curtains! But the advantage is that the films are clear, as in not v tinted, yet has high heat rejection. Good but to ex for me. They have so-called conventional films as well, which costs $3.50(after some bargaining)psf, more reasonable priced, but not so good heat rejection.

LLumar also does car films, if do both, think got better discount. Anyway, u can try calling James Lim 92296008, 67446008, from Linus (dunno if be remember me haha)

6450-8888, 3M their hotline,

Try my contact for Vcool, special rate.
Hui Huang 98534529. Recommended by a close friend of mine

Huper

http://sg.nanolux.com/

What is a PVD finish?

It actually stands for Physical Vapor Deposition which is a manufacturing process that bonds the finish color to create a very durable finish which looks like highly polished brass thus helping it resist scratches, corrosion and tarnishing. PVD finish is commonly used for kitchen & bathroom fixtures and other hardware which needs to be highly tarnish-resistant.

Today, most manufacturers use a technology called PVD (physical vapor deposition) for their faucet finishes. The process involves the deposition of zirconium nitride, titanium nitride, or other metallic ion combinations under low vacuum conditions. The finishes laid down with this method are considered practically indestructible. PVD can be used on almost any material from brass to plastic.

The complete PVD finishing process from cleaning to final inspection takes place under clean room conditions that include hygienic air purification, pressurized to reduce dust and other contaminants. Individual parts are hung on racks and travel through a proprietary nine-step ultrasonic, aqueous cleaning process. Sound-wave vibrations and chemicals thoroughly clean and prepare the surface for coating. The cleaning process contains no chlorinated solvents or other ozone-depleting chemicals.

After drying and inspection, the parts are taken to the PVD chamber for the coating process. This process combines reactive gases such as nitrogen and acetylene with specific metals to form a thin, film-like metal alloy that coats metal parts creating an elegant, highly durable finish. The chamber is controlled by a computerized system that stores and monitors 64 individual processes customized to meet specific parameters for various parts and different finishes, such as brushed nickel, copper and oil-rubbed bronze. These finishes are darker and not particularly shiny which gives them a unique, muted look.

PVD coatings are extremely thin, usually .05 microns thick. No clear coat protection is required with a PVD finish, and no toxic wastes are produced as they are in electroplating. PVD finishes offer exceptional richness and depth, and are resistant to discoloration by sunlight. In addition, in abrasion tests conducted by independent testing laboratories, PVD finishes have been found to be more than 23 times more resistant than chrome plating.

All PVD finishes are not created equal, however. All products finished with the PVD process must first have a finished surface of some sort. In most cases, products are chrome plated then processed in a PVD chamber for coloring. The final finish will only be as good as the surface it is adhered to. If the chrome underneath begins to peel (either from expansion and contraction, or because the plating is too thin), the finish will fail.

Each of the manufacturers has a different name for their finishes which use this process, but the procedure is similar. Regardless of the type of finish, however, harsh abrasives should always be avoided when cleaning faucets. The average PVD faucet will cost 20% to 35% more than chrome.

Source: Kohler Co.

What to Save, What to Spend

Windows:
SPEND ON: The curtains
Don’t be tempted to go for cheap fabric as it will show. Whether you choose silk, linen or a weave, make sure it’s good quality and drapes evenly. Don’t try to save money by buying less fabric, either – cutting down on the fullness of your curtains will just spoil the effect. Pay attention to getting the style of the heading right, too – for e.g. go for simple eyelet headings in a contemporary setting, or extra-deep pencil pleats in a more traditional scheme.
TIP: Lining your curtains will add to your cost, but is essential to add fullness and weight to your fabric, making it hang better. Lining also protects fabric from sunlight.

SAVE ON: The curtain pole
If your curtains look beautiful, you don’t need a fancy pole so you can cut costs by choosing a simple design. Metal or wrought-iron poles tend to be cheaper than wooden ones, though just as sturdy, and come in a range of colours and finishes. Think about the proportions of the window – with smaller windows you can get away with using a narrower (and therefore cheaper) pole.
TIP: For a touch of glamour, add decorative finials to a plain pole – they’re less expensive than the whole pole.

Lights:
SPEND ON: The lamp base
A lamp is a key finishing touch in a room, so invest in a good-quality lamp base in a classic style that won’t date. Choose one that is non-specific in colour – glass or crystal is ideal – so it can be teamed with cheaper lampshades in different styles and colours.
TIP: Look for quality fittings such as metal holders, woven flexes and sliding switches – inexpensive white plastic fittings are a big quality giveaway.

SAVE ON: The lampshade
The shade you choose can completely change the look of the lamp, making it bold and flamboyant or simple and understated. Be brave – if you tire of it, it won’t cost much to replace. Modern drum-shaped shades give a contemporary look and are inexpensive to buy, whether in plain white cotton or colourful silks. Or follow fashion with one of the latest punchwork shades, featuring intricate lacy designs punched out of card. They look stylish and are good value, too. Pick a shade that is in proportion with your base – as a rough guide, the diameter of your shade should be equal to the length of the lamp base (not including the bulb fitting).
TIP: Use the bulb wattage recommended by the base and shade manufacturers – if the wattage differs, opt for the lower of the two. A bulb with too high a wattage could blow fuses or cause a fire.

Seating:
SPEND ON: The sofa
A good-quality sofa should last 10 to 15 years, so spend as much as you can afford. Invest in a design with classic features and hardwearing neutral upholstery that will stand the test of time. Make sure it’s well constructed – a zigzag sprung model with a hardwood frame is a good option for both strength and comfort. Choose a fibre fill with a foam core for the sofa back as it’s soft yet supportive; keep its shape and need less plumping. A fibre and feather mix is soft, but needs regular plumping, which is tricky with any fixed sections.
TIP: To keep your sofa looking good, invest in a stain-protection treatment when you buy it.

SAVE ON: The cushions
Accessories like cushions are great finishing touches, and you don’t need to spend a fortune to get that wow factor. Look for the latest high-street buys to keep your living room looking bang up to date.
TIP: If you’re buying them at a bargain price, go for a pile of cushions rather than one or two, to create a more luxurious look.

The floor:
SPEND ON: The carpet
Laying new carpet is not something you’ll do often, so it pays to buy as good a quality carpet as you can afford. Neutrals and natural weaves are an obvious choice rather than bold shades and patterned designs that can date. Areas of heavy wear will need a hard-wearing carpet, such as an 80/20 wool/nylon mix. In areas like bedrooms, a lighter grade, less hard-wearing carpet will be fine – and cheaper, too.
TIP: Good quality underlay will prolong the life of your carpet. Don’t try to cut costs by fitting new carpet over old underlay or by choosing cheap underlay.

SAVE ON: The rug
A rug is a brilliant way to add impact. It’s easy to pick up a stunning design at a reasonable price, which makes it simple to replace when you want a new look.
TIP: Choose a rug that will suit the room’s scale – a small version will look lost in the middle of a big living room, but if you use it for a purpose – to unite furniture in front of a fireplace or TV, for example – it will work.

Sleeping:
SPEND ON: The mattress
Buy the best-quality mattress you can, as an inferior one will sag. Your choice depends on your budget, but a good mid-priced option is a continuous-sprung mattress rather than an open-sprung design as the interwoven coils are smaller, giving a higher spring count and a more responsive feel. For ultimate comfort, opt for a pocket-sprung mattress, where springs in individual pockets work independently so there’ll be no transmission of movement from one partner to the other.
TIP: You can also buy sprung mattresses with a foam layer that moulds to the contours of your body.

SAVE ON: The bed
If you’ve invested in a good-quality mattress, you can afford to economise on the bed frame, but this doesn’t mean you have to compromise on quality. Avoid designs with rigid wooden slats that are widely spaced, as they will cause wear and tear on your mattress. For comfort, opt for flexible slats no more than 9 to 10cm apart.
TIP: Mattress manufacturers recommend slat spacing to suit their own mattresses, so check the bedstead is compatible before you buy.

SPEND ON: The pillows
At worst, a cheap pillow will give you a stiff neck or persistent headaches. Invest in a good-quality pillow that will hold your head, neck, shoulders and upper back in a straight line. The filling and firmness you choose depends on personal preference, but synthetic-filled pillows come in a variety of softnesses (keep to branded fibres for quality), are easy to wash and keep their shape. Down and feather versions are plumper and softer – opt for these if you like to sink into your pillow.
TIP: Make sure you’re sleeping in a healthy environment by replacing your pillows at least every two to three years to avoid a build-up of skin and dust mites.

SAVE ON: The bed linen
When it comes to bed linen, it is looks that are important. Most stores sell sets at reasonable prices, so you can afford to replace them without blowing your budget. Top-quality Egyptian cotton looks fabulous, but it can be a nightmare to iron, so opt for easy-iron sets (usually a polycotton mix) instead – they’re much less pricey, too.
TIP: Buy inexpensive sets in plain toning colours so you can layer the look.

Kitchen:
SPEND ON: The handles
It’s often the details that make all the difference – the plainest kitchen units can be transformed with smart new handles. Invest in a good design – even though the price per handle might seem expensive, quality fittings really do stand out.
TIP: Choose high-quality materials such as pewter, chrome, leather and resin for a superior-looking finish.

SAVE ON: The doors
As long as the carcasses of your kitchen units are solidly made, you can economise when you’re updating by replacing the doors with budget buys. The plainer and simpler the design, the cheaper the doors will be. What’s more, unfussy styles with minimal detailing are far less likely to date than high-fashion styles.
TIP: Opt for inexpensive plain white doors rather than cheap wooden ones – it’s more difficult to spot that they’re not top quality. They’re more versatile, too – white looks great with just about every colour scheme.

Bathrooms:
SPEND ON: The taps
Quality taps will lift the look of an average suite or bathroom. Remember, they are working parts, too, so a superior design will be less likely to go wrong. High-quality materials such as chrome will also stay tarnish-free.
TIPS: Try taps out in the showroom – if the handle or spout wobbles when you turn them on, they’re of a lesser quality.

SAVE ON: The basin
Keep to clean lines and classic styles – with simple shapes, it’s hard to differentiate a top-end basin from a lower-priced option.
TIP: Shop around for a bargain – you don’t have to get your taps and basin from the same supplier.

Dining:
SPEND ON: The chair
Quality is vital when you’re choosing dining chairs as they come under more strain than the table. Hardwood frames are the most durable. Fabrics suitable for chairs need to have passes the 25,000 ‘rub test’, so check this is marked. Nylon glides on the feet will protect the chair and the floor, and are a good indicator of quality.
TIP: The chair should be wider than the gap between your elbows when placed on the table (52cm to 56cm). There should be around 18cm to 20cm between the seat and the underside of the table.

SAVE ON: The table
A ridiculously cheap table is a false economy as you’ll only get what you pay for. But a good table need not be expensive – check that it’s strong and feels well made. Wood tables are the sturdiest and have the advantage that a damaged top can be sanded back and re-varnished.
TIP: Table heights range from 73.5cm to 77cm and over, so make sure any existing chairs will fit comfortable under it. There should be at least 60cm of space for each diner on a rectangular table, or 75cm on a circular table.

Toilet Bowl Pan Collar Fitting : Must have Silicon Seal

Sometimes when someone flushes his toilet on the upper floors, pressure is created that can suck water from your toilet bowl into the sewage pipe. When that happens the water level in the bowl will drop so drastically that it leaves a gap in the "S" bend, allowing foul air from the sewage pipe to seep into your toilet.

So if your toilet smells bad, first check there is sufficient water in the toilet bowl. No, not in the cistern but in the toilet bowl itself. This water in the bowl acts as a barrier to foul air from the sewage pipe, and prevents any foul smell entering the toilet through the sewage pipe.

If the water level in the toilet bowl is high enough above the "S" bend, then you should suspect an unsealed pan collar as the culprit for the stink.

Now, what about the report that some people complained their toilets smelled after the HDB upgrading exercise?

I believe that had nothing to do with the replacement of the cast-iron sewage pipe nor with the removal of the air vent pipe. The reason for the stink was very likely due to the bad installation of their toilet bowl. It was likely cracks developed at the cement base of the toilet bowl when the sewage pipe was changed, and because the pan collar of the toilet was not properly sealed, foul air escaped from the sewage system into the toilet.

LESSON LEARNT:

Ensure your plumber applies a silicone seal around the pan collar when he first installs the toilet bowl. That is the proper and correct procedure to install the toilet bowl. In the west plumbers use a wax gasket to ensure an airtight seal between the toilet bowl and the sewage pipe.

Readers will recall that during the 2003 SARS epidermic, it was reported in Hongkong the virus spread from one floor to the floor below via the sewage pipe. Although details were not divulged in the press report, I suspect the leak was caused by improper toilet bowl installation.

When someone flushes his toilet on the upper floors, obviously the foul air carrying viruses and bacteria will be "flushed" into the toilet on the floor below through the unsealed pan collar. Hence the stink.

I would probably have remained ignorant today of how unsanitary my toilet installation was had I not experienced the stinky toilet bowl problem.

Now, even if you have a toilet bowl that is completely sealed so that no air could escape from the chamber once the toilet is cemented to the floor, it is still advisable to ask your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar. Otherwise you risk allowing viruses to enter your toilet each time someone on the upper floors flushes the toilet.

As we know, cement is porous and over time will develop cracks so that most people will find their toilets stink after some years, especially for those with unsealed pan collars. You can prevent the stink by getting your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar during the initial installation of the toilet bowl.

Why risk your family's health?


POSTSCRIPT: Public health was at risk so I posted the issue on a forum, see below:

A friend pm'ed me asking why apply silicone sealant when the plumber already used white cement to seal the toilet bowl to the floor?

Well, the silicone sealant is applied to the pan collar -- the piece that is connected to the sewage pipe hole. If the pan collar is not sealed, foul air (and soil too) will seep into yr toilet bowl chamber due to the air presure at work.

Like others, I did not ask my plumber to seal the pan collar when he first installed the bowl. After installation, my toilet smelled badly, particularly when someone on higher floors flushed the toilet.

My toilet was a 1-piece design, and had 2 rectangular holes at the back of the toilet bowl. Hence I could detect the foul smell. More importantly, I realized the risk I was putting my family to, breathing in bad air, particularly bacteria and viruses from sick neighbors upstairs after they had flushed the toilet.

If not for the toilet design I had chosen, I would not have detected the foul smell, and the problem probably would only surface several years later.

You don't get any foul smell if your toilet bowl has no openings and is fully sealed by the white cement onto the floor. But over time the cement will develop tiny cracks, that is when you begin to detect foul smell from the toilet bowl area. That happened to my old toilet (after 5 yrs), although at that time I did not know what caused the bad smell. Maybe the earthquakes from Indonesia over last 2 yrs was a contributory factor, causing tiny cracks in the cement to appear, thereby allowing foul air to seep into the toilet space?

Anyway, when my plumber told me he never applied silicone sealant to the pan collar I realized probably all plumbers in Singapore also install toilet bowls without applying silicone sealant!

That is very unhygienic. Ask yr plumber if that is true. Probably he will tell you he don't use silicone sealant for your toilet bowl's pan collar too.

With unsealed toilet bowls we are probably breathing in all sorts of viruses and bacteria discharged from sick neighbors in the block without knowing it.

The HK health authorities at first were mystified how the SARS virus were spreading in the same apartment block. Finally they traced the spread to faulty sewage pipe.

The authorities did not reveal what caused the leak (in order not to spread public panic) but the culprit was the unsealed toilet bowl that allowed foul air (carrying the virus) to spread from one upper flat to another lower down. If the toilet pipe had merely been leaking water, do you think the affected flat owner would not have noticed that and left the leak unattended? Of course not! So I believe SARS had spread via the unsealed toilet bowl pan collar!

Now that my toilet bowl has been re-installed, there is no more foul smell !

So, please remind yr plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar.

Jalan Besar

Along Jalan Besar is where you can find lots of shops selling lights, fixtures & fittings, etc