Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Stain Removal

Even the most fastidious among us have trouble avoiding the occasional drip of coffee or splash of marinara. Although clothing stains can be very stubborn, they can almost always be removed if dealt with promptly and properly. Andrea Ross, head of the wardrobe department at CBS Television, shares her expertise on stain removal.

When removing stains, use the gentlest techniques and products possible, working up gradually to stronger methods for stains that resist. Although it may be tempting to dunk a garment into a sink of suds or drown a stain in club soda, Andrea advocates a milder approach. She always has a clean, colorfast towel rolled up behind the cloth to absorb the stain. She uses ice-cold water, which is sprayed onto a towel and dabbed onto the material. Dabbing, not rubbing, is key -- you don't want to end up rubbing the stain into the fabric. Often, if a stain is fresh, this step is the only one necessary.

Martha asks Andrea to tackle a classic problem -- coffee spilled on a white shirt. Since the shirt is washable, Andrea's first step is to flush the stain with cold water. If this doesn't do the trick, she rubs the spot with ice; the rolled towel behind the cloth absorbs the stain as the ice coaxes it out of the fabric. If some of the coffee colors remains, Andrea moves on to white vinegar -- a natural, mild bleach. Just a bit, applied with a cotton swab, is all that is usually needed. At this point, the cloth can be laundered as usual, although it is important not to use hot water, as the heat can set the stain if any color remains.

For organic stains, such as grass or blood, Andrea uses a "digestant" -- a detergent containing enzymes that dissolve the proteins in the stain -- applied with a swab or toothbrush. Wisk Away and Shout are examples of digestants. An important note: Never use a digestant on wool or silk; these fibers contain protein and will be permanently damaged by these cleaners.

With older stains of undetermined origin, the first step is to try scraping the spot with a brush or fingernail. If the stain is caked on, this will remove some of the excess. Next, try dabbing the spot with cold water on a clean white towel. This will give you an idea as to whether the stain will come up and will also let you know if the fabric is colorfast. If no dye from the fabric comes off on the towel, it is probably safe to wash with a mild soap. If the stain doesn't budge, or if the garment is not washable or colorfast, your best choice is to go to a professional cleaner.

For a comprehensive guide to stain removal, see our Stain First Aid Chart.


Tips from Martha

How to Remove Stains

There is no single technique or product that takes care of every spot and spill, but with the right information and supplies, many stains can be removed.

If a garment isn't washable, the safest thing is to take it to a dry cleaner, although there are some treatments you can try at home (see Stain First Aid Chart). If you stain a washable garment, the golden rule is: Act quickly. For a liquid, gently blot up any excess with a white cloth, working from the outside in, so you don't spread the stain; do not press hard or rub. Sprinkle an oily stain with cornstarch. If it's a dollop of something, like ketchup, scoop off any excess. Dab the area with cool water, which will lighten most spots and remove others altogether.

Textile and stain experts recommend certain stain removal supplies for each problem. Start small, using cotton swabs and eyedroppers. Often, you'll start with one treatment, then follow up with another, since many stains have more than one component: With lipstick or tomato sauce, for example, you have to treat the oil in the stain, then remove the color. After using a remedy, always wash the garment as you normally would, but look at the area you treated before you dry it; repeat the treatment if necessary, or try another.

Always test stain-removal techniques in a hidden area of the garment, like an inside seam. There are no guarantees -- sometimes stain-removal techniques do more harm than good -- so if you have a particularly vexing stain or a valuable, delicate piece of clothing, take it to a professional. And unfortunately, some things just won't come out. With permanent ink, for example, the operative word is "permanent."

Stain First Aid Chart

Combination Solvents
(Shout, Spray 'n Wash)
All-purpose stain removers, particularly good on greasy stains.

Oil Solvents
(K2r, Afta)
Also called dry-cleaning fluid, these remove oily, greasy stains. Safe on nonwashables. Use only on dry fabric in a well-ventilated area. Air clothes after using.

Digestants
(Biz, Era Plus, Wisk)
Also called enzyme cleaners, these detergents contain enzymes that "eat" protein stains, like grass, blood, and egg yolk. Apply directly to damp fabric, or dilute in water, and then soak clothes. Use cold water when treating blood stains. Wool and silk are proteins, so digestants should never be used on these fibers.

Absorbants
(cornstarch, talcum powder)
Sprinkle on fresh grease stains, wait 10 to 15 minutes, then scrape off. Then you can treat the stain.

Detergents
A mild, clear-liquid dishwashing detergent is an effective all-purpose cleaner. Apply it straight, wait five minutes, then flush or dab with water.

Bleaches
Remove the color left behind by stains with mild bleaches, such as lemon juice, white vinegar (mixed 1:1 with water), 2 percent or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, or ammonia (2 parts water to 1 part ammonia; do not use on wool or silk). Use a cotton swab to dab the bleach, or place paper towels under the fabric, and use an eyedropper to flush the area with the proper bleach. Chlorine bleach, diluted with water, is a last resort.

Denatured Alcohol
Effective at breaking down some stains and evaporates without leaving a residue.

Mineral Spirits
For greasy stains, like tar. Air clothes after using.

Glycerin
Available at drugstores, it is particularly good for ballpoint ink.


Tips from Martha

The Wash Cycle

Of the many household tasks, doing the laundry seems to be a no-brainer: Put clothes in the washer, add detergent, and press start. But regular washing can take a toll on your garments. Here's how to prevent white shirts from turning gray, sort your bright clothing (hint: you need more than one pile), undo the damage when colors run, and perform many other tricks that will keep your clothes and linens in near-original condition.

How to Keep Whites White
The main reason white items turn gray or become dull is incorrect sorting. People generally have few all-white loads, so they tend to mix whites with colored garments. Unfortunately, some types of fabric, notably cotton, aren't colorfast, so their dye molecules wind up in the wash water and settle on other fabrics, noticeably on white and other light ones. Washing heavily soiled items, such as athletic socks, with lightly soiled ones, such as sheets, can also lead to dinginess. Unless you add enough detergent to hold the dirt in suspension, it will end up back on the very articles you intended to clean. Water quality, too, can affect how your whites emerge from the washer. Iron-laden water and hard water (rich in calcium and magnesium) can render detergents less effective and cause staining.

What to Do
Wash whites separately. The best way to retain whiteness is to launder white items together in the hottest water the fabric will tolerate ;water that is at least 120 degrees Fehrenheit (49 degrees Celcius) is most effective at removing soil. Choose detergent with a bleach alternative and/or enzymes, using the maximum amount recommended.

Add a laundry booster. You can increase the cleaning power of a detergent by adding a booster, such as borax, oxygen bleach, or washing soda to help maintain whiteness. Before washing, soak heavily soiled items using an enzyme detergent (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets) or oxygen bleach, and launder them separately.

Pretreat body-oil marks. To remove perspiration and other greasy stains, pretreat with liquid detergent, dishwashing liquid, or shampoo (use colorless ones to avoid dye transfer). Gently rub the liquid into the fabric using a clean toothbrush or complexion brush.

Tackle colored stains. Address food spills, such as coffee or juice, and underarm yellowing, which is residue from antiperspirant or deodorant, by applying undiluted liquid oxygen bleach directly to the fabric immediately before laundering.

Use a color remover. Once a month or when your whites become dull, wash them with a color remover (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Alternatively, soak items in boiling water and oxygen bleach in a basin (this is suitable only for fabrics that won't shrink). You may have to experiment to determine which technique whitens best.

Accept less than perfect. Even with meticulous sorting, don't expect whites to stay fluorescent bright forever. When white fabrics are manufactured, they are often treated with optical brighteners, which are chemicals that boost whiteness. They will eventually wash out and cannot be replaced.

Minerals and water: If your water has a high iron content (look for reddish stains in the shower and toilet), launder with an iron-removing product (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Don't use chlorine bleach: Combined with iron and hot water, it can yellow clothing. Instead, use oxygen bleach, which is a more effective (and more environmentally friendly) alternative. For hard water (evidenced by rough, hard-to-clean deposits on bathroom fixtures), some detergent labels call for using larger amounts. If your water is particularly hard, you may not be able to get whites pristine unless you install a water softener, which removes minerals.

How to Keep Darks Dark
During the wash cycle, articles of clothing collide with one another and the washer's interior, which causes some of the fibers in the fabric to break, exposing the raw fiber ends. This friction disrupts the surface of the fabric, tricking the eye into seeing less color. Tumble drying can cause similar damage, though to a lesser extent. Also, washing darks in warm or hot water can hasten dye loss. With some fabrics, expect a certain amount of fading; theres no such thing, for instance, as truly colorfast cotton.

What to Do
Wash darks separately. To help preserve dark items' original colors and prevent bleeding onto lighter clothes, wash darks together using the cold-water cycle (60-80 degrees Fehrenheit / 16-27 degrees Celcius).

Use the shortest cycle. Select the appropriate setting depending on how soiled the clothes are and what fabric they're made of. As far as detergents go, experts say that they don't really contribute to fading. While some formulas are designed specifically for darks, any liquid detergent without a bleach alternative is suitable (liquids work better in cold water; powders may not dissolve fully).

Minimize abrasion. Prepare your clothes for the washer by closing zippers, fastening hooks, and turning items inside out. Also, wash items of similar weight together -- that is, don't wash a cashmere sweater and jeans in the same load just because they're dark blue.

Line-dry darks. Whenever possible, hang dark items to dry (out of direct sunlight); this helps maintain their original appearance. When you do use the dryer, opt for the lowest temperature suitable for the material, and be careful not to overdry your clothes. Remove them from the machine as soon as they're dry or even while they're slightly damp; this will help keep shrinkage to a minimum.

Washing in winter: Although cold water helps prevent dark clothing from fading, frigid outdoor temperatures may cause the washer's water temperature to fall below 40 degrees, rendering even detergents designed to work in cold water ineffective. If you live in an area with particularly chilly winters, don't use the cold-water wash setting during that time of year. Instead, select a warm-water wash and a cold rinse.

How to Keep Brights Bright
As with darks, wear and tear in the washer and dryer as well as warm and hot water can cause colors to fade. Deep, bright garments often shed a little dye over time, so some color loss is inevitable.

Separate by color intensity. Launder colored items in two groups: brights and pastels. Wash brand-new brights on their own for the first few cycles, when they're most likely to bleed significant amounts of dye.

Turn items inside out. Keep brights looking good longer by reversing them before washing. Choose the shortest cycle appropriate for the soil level and fabric.

When colors run: Forget soaking your bright fabrics in salt or vinegar to forestall bleeding; it won't help. If brights do bleed onto other clothing in the wash, don't put the stained items in the dryer. The heat will set the dye, making any discoloration permanent. Instead, launder the clothes again separately. As long as you don't apply heat, the dye should come out, even if you don't rewash the items immediately.


Tips from Martha

Monday, January 5, 2009

How to choose Iron

Five items to consider before buying an iron.

1. Heat

The ideal iron should have adjustable settings for delicate to cotton fabrics, an auto-off to turn the iron off after a pre-set time and an option for steam or heat only with no steam.
Compare Prices

2. Steam

Steam is the best wrinkle remover. Look for an iron with a burst of steam feature to help with tough wrinkles, a spray nozzle to pre-moisten fabrics and a clear gauge on the water tank for ease in filling. A self-cleaning feature uses a burst of steam to clear clogs in the soleplate of the iron and will save those iron-colored droplets appearing on your white shirt.

3. Surface

Non-stick soleplates are most often the same non-stick surface as cookware and are the easiest to clean. Stainless steel or aluminum also transfer heat well but may need to be scrubbed to remove built-up starch or sizing.

4. Cords

The easiest iron to use is a cordless rechargeable iron. But if you're purchasing one with a cord look for an extra long cord and a reversible or pivoting cord allowing left- and right-handers to use it comfortably - no excuses!

5. Weight

Depending on where you like to pump iron - the gym or the laundry - irons can weigh between one and a half to three pounds. A heavier iron will cover a greater pressing area but a light-weight iron may work best for light or infrequent sessions.

How to avoid Ironing Mistakes

Ironing clothes can be a tricky job. With so many fabric types, pleats, tucks, seams, etc. getting the wrinkles out can give even the best housekeeper a headache. Find out the top 7 ironing mistakes we make and how to avoid them. Some of them begin before we ever turn on our iron.

1. Letting clothes over-dry.

Clothes are very difficult to iron when they are fully dry or over dried in the dryer. Over-dried clothes can be very difficult to reshape. Try to remove clothes when they are still slightly damp. If you line dry your clothes, bring them inside to iron when they are not quite dry.

2. Overfilling the dryer.

It would seem like stuffing as many clothes as can fit into a dryer would save us time, but more than likely it will only lengthen the time you spend caring for your clothing. An average dryer should be only 1/2 full in order to allow freedom for all clothing to move. If too many articles of clothing are in the dryer, it will create monster wrinkles, and make your ironing much more difficult.

3. Forgetting to shake and smoothe.

When clothing is removed from the dryer, it frequently sits in a basket waiting to be ironed. Take a few minutes and shake out your clothing. Reshape garments, and smooth out seams and pleats. Even if clothing still needs to be ironed, it will be a much smoother process.

4. Not using the sprayer.

Many irons today come with a built in sprayer to dampen clothes during ironing. If yours doesn't have one, purchase a new inexpensive empty spray bottle to use. Dampen the clothing when you are ready to begin ironing. Wrinkles will fall out of the clothing as you iron. If you don't use the sprayer to soften up the clothing, ironing is much more difficult and for some garments, impossible.

5. Using Hard Water.

Tap water may be okay to use in your iron, depending on what type of water you have. People with hard water risk damaging their iron. Read the instructions for your iron, and if in doubt, use distilled water in your iron.

6. Improper use of starches and sizers.

Starches and sizers are a great tool when ironing, but they must be used properly. Spray these products as you iron, but allow them to actually penetrate into the garment before ironing over them. Allowing just a few seconds for the clothing to soak up the starch or sizer, will keep your iron's soleplate from becoming built-up with product residue.

7. Ironing heavyweight fabrics first.

If you have a large pile of ironing to do, try to iron your lightest silk, synthetic, and delicate fabrics first. These need to be ironed on low temperatures. Once the iron heats up, and you've ironed your lightweights, you can move on to the wools, cottens, linens, etc.

http://housekeeping.about.com/od/surfacefabric/a/ironmistakes.htm

How to select ironing board cover

Any cover should be smooth and permeable to heat and steam. Teflon-coated cotton covers will not stick to your clothes and make it easy to clean away any build-up of starch or sizing. The best pad is one made of felt. It will hold its shape better than a foam pad.

How to choose laundry detergent

Many people are as loyal to their laundry detergent as they are to their favorite cola. Some just buy what their mother used and others buy what’s on sale. With so many choices on the market, you’re sure to find one that you like and cleans your laundry.

Liquid or Powdered?

General purpose detergents are available in liquid or powdered form. Both clean clothes well. However, liquid detergents are very effecting on greasy, oily stains and can be easily used as a pretreater. Powdered detergents are usually less expensive to use per load. They are effective on clay and ground-in dirt. Take a look at your family’s needs and that will help you make a decision.

Liquids and powders can both be used in cold water; however, some powdered detergents do not dissolve well in lower temperatures. If this is a problem, use a higher wash temperature or dissolve the powder in a cup of hot water before adding it to the wash. Both types are available in concentrated or ultra forms. Be sure to read the labels to ensure that you are using the correct amount.

Combination products

A combination detergent does two jobs. Examples include a detergent plus fabric softener or color-safe bleach or bleach alternative. Some of these features enhance a detergent’s performance. The best way to determine if you can see a difference is to give them a try and decide for yourself if the extra expense makes your laundry look better. {h3]Specialty Detergents

Detergents that are designed for hand washing or machine washing delicate items are less harsh than regular detergents. Made for light soil and delicate fabrics, they are a good choice in the right situation.

For baby’s laundry and those sensitive to fragrances and dyes, chose a detergent that is free from those ingredients. Scented detergents smell great but may compete with your cologne or perfume – Apple Mango and Chanel No. 5 don’t always go together!

http://laundry.about.com/od/laundrybasics/a/choosedetergent.htm

Saturday, January 3, 2009

10 easy tips to help you choose the right washing machine

1. Measure the space that you have to put your washing machine in order to know the size limit of the washer that you can buy.

2. What is the capacity of washer that you need.ie. how many kg loading?

3. Define what are the "must have" features in the washer that you need.

4. Define what are the " must not" in the washer so that you can eliminate the inappropriate washers from your list.

5. Define your budget.

6. Talk to various salespersons to understand what kind of washers there are in current market.

7. Compare between comparable brands and models of the same range that you are looking at.

8. Decide on which brand and model you want. You may consider factors such as reliability, performance, cost, service supportability, warranty, ease of use, etc.

9. Once you have decided on the brand and model of the washer, compare among a few different shops to get the best price.

10. Buy that washer of your choice!

Friday, January 2, 2009

How to choose beddings

Here's some tips on how to choose the right bedsheet set :

1. Find out what size and side thickness length of bedding you need.

2. Think about what theme you want. Would you want a simple stripe, polka dots, or a floral design? The color that you prefer?

3. Pay attention to what the sheets you're buying are made out of.

4. Pay attention to the weave of the cotton if you're buying cotton.

5. Check the "thread count" on the label.

6. Most sheet sets come with a fitted sheet / plain sheet, two pillowcases and sometimes also a bolster case. You may also want to buy a quilt cover, blanket or comforter.

7. Washing: Some comforters can be washed in home washing machines if the machine is large enough. Some comforters however may require that you to take them to be dry cleaned or to a laundromat (laundromats tend to have a few larger machines for this purpose.) Be patient and follow the care directions. If washing at home or laundromat, don't use harsh detergents and use the extra rinse cycle. When it comes to drying the comforter in the dryer, toss a tennis ball or two into the dryer with the comforter and allow the comforter to take 3-4 hours to dry.

Tips

* Try not to order from the Internet. Usually, bedding looks different in your room and the Internet.
* Just choose what you like!
* To put your sheets in order and give them a crisp, luxurious hotel feel, take them to the dry cleaners for cleaning and pressing.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

How to choose washing machine (3)

These questions will help you choose really which one is right for your budget and lifestyle.

What is my space available? take any space concerns into consideration. If you have a small house that has limited room available for your washer, then you are going to need something that can realistically fit within the small amount of space you have available. In some cases, a washer and dryer combination may even be a great idea if you really want to conserve on space.

How does the washer load? You can purchase either front loading or top loading machine. You’ll want to get the best washer which works for you. Compare the advantages and disadvantages between front loaders and top loaders.

What is the loading capacity? The load capacity is the dry weight of clothes. If you live alone and don’t have a huge amount of laundry to do, then you can go with a smaller capacity. However, if you have a large family with several children, you’ll want to go with a larger capacity of at least 6 kg or more. Washing a larger load will also be more economical. The following guide lines will help you determine what size is the best washing machine for you.

Single person Less than 4.9 Kg

Couple without children 5 kg - 5.4 kg

Family with 2 children 5.5 kg - 5.9 kg

Family with 3-4 children 6 kg and more

How does the washer spin? The spinning of the clothes washer is going to be important to how quickly the laundry will end up drying. The higher the speed of your motor, the more efficient the spinning will be. Also consider the type of spinning for your machine so it will dry the clothes as much as possible before using the tumble drier or hanging on the line. If you don’t have a drier then you will want to be looking at spins of above 1000rpm to make sure the clothes are reasonably dry.

What programs does the washer have? There are anti wrinkle programs, delicate programs, delayed starts, short wash cycles, and even automatic programs for you to choose from when considering various washing machines.

Is it noisy? An important question to ask…..if the machine is going to be placed where you like to hang out then a quiet one is essential. If the machine is somewhere away from people like in the shed or garage then the noise level won’t be such a concern.

How fast is it ? A fast machine is very convenient as long as the whites are white.

What is the water and energy efficiency ? Efficient washers can actually save you pennies. This is useful for people washing regularly. Upper Shoal aerial view

The Base ? Washing machines are heavy and can vibrate a lot. You need to consider the base of the washer and where you will place it. You don’t want your house to be rockin and rollin ! Choosing the correct mode at the right price can often mean a trade of between features. Remember the most important thing is to find the best washing machine that fits your current need.

How to choose washing machine (2)

Step1
Consider how much noise the washing machine makes and where in your home it will be located.

Step2
Measure the space where you plan to install your new appliance. If you're off by even an inch or two, it can make a huge difference.

Step3
Look to consumer magazines or Web sites for repair histories of particular brands. Your $300 to $600 investment should last you at least 20 years.

Step4
Shop for a washer in which the controls are easy to read and use. The touch-pad types are a little more expensive and not necessarily better.

Step5
Make sure the lint trap is easy to reach and clean.

Step6
Look at the insides carefully: Porcelain coating on the top surface is best. However, for the drum, stainless steel or plastic is preferable because a drum made from these materials won't scratch like a painted one will, or chip and then rust like porcelain coating.

Step7
Save water and electricity with a front-loading model. These are also more gentle on clothes because they don't use an agitator. They also are typically quieter than top-loaders, and fit in smaller spaces. They require special detergent, however.

Step8
Think about capacity - each brand has a different definition of high-capacity. Clothes are measured in pounds; you may want to weigh an average load before going shopping to make sure your new washer can handle your washing habits. Front-loading models only hold about 8 pounds.

Step9
Look for extras such as bleach-, detergent- and fabric softener-dispensers, a hand-wash cycle, and automatic temperature controls.

Step10
Compare prices from department and appliance stores with those found on the Web.

Step11
Be sure to get a good warranty.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

How to choose washing machine

Pros

Top Load
1. Can add more clothes in after starting
2. save energy
3. cheaper machine
4. faster


Front Load
1. save water
2. save space
3. need to squat
4. save energy if heater off
5. gentler on clothes


Recommendation
1. If to wash everything, minimum 8kg is needed.
2. Choose variable rpm - higher than 800rpm spoil clothes easily

Brands

Top Load
Samsung
LG
Thomson

Front Load
Electrolux
Brandt
Bosch

1. Toshiba DD950SS Top Load
Quiet
Ease of use
Sleek design
2. Thomson top load
highly recommended in Sg Brides Forum
3. Samsung
cheap
can add in softener from the beginning
service good
safety lock
time delay function
antibacterial??
4. LG
cheap and last long
service agent sucks
5. Electrolux
keep changing distributor
6. Electrolux 880
discontinued
7. Thomson
front load designed to fit into top load
8 Philips
serevice good


Recommended shop
1. Hong Liang
2. Lee Meng trading
3. Mega@Katong (look for Veron)
4. Goh Ah Bee (near Kovan blk 210)

sumthing i found while shopping for washing machine.

1. Currently majority of JP brands are manufactured in Thailand
2. Get those with stainless steel tub
3. LG cover is normally koyak and won't align straight when u cover > known manufacturing defect
4. LG protuding thingy and those alike inside the tub - Rem to check your clothing for stray threads else it might be wound into it.
5. Toshiba washing machine consumes high power W500+ compared to panasonic (can't find the local brochure online or in store but gotten the M'sia website one to compare)
6. International brands like Fisher & Electro compare saves more elec than JP (compare in terms of kg)
7. Remember to heighten your washing machine with rubber stoppers and don't level your drainage pipe else there some brands will think that water not draining and keep rewashing!!! (happens to Toshiba)

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