Energy and Water efficiency for Washer

Washers

Energy and Water Efficiency

New washers have options to reduce the amount of water you use in a cycle.

Energy Standards for Washers
If it's been a while since you bought a washer, even regular models will be more efficient than your old one: U.S. Department of Energy standards for all clothes washers made or sold in the United States were raised on January 1, 2007. Look for the yellow and black EnergyGuide label, which will note the product's specifications.

The Modified Energy Factor (MEF) measures washer energy-efficiency. It is determined by dividing tub capacity by the total energy consumption per cycle (washing machine energy, water-heating energy and dryer energy). The higher the MEF, the more efficient the washing machine is. All standard-size top-loading and front-loading washers must have an MEF of 1.26 or greater.

High-Efficiency Washers
Today's energy-efficient washing machines are effective cleaners that cost only a few hundred dollars more than their standard counterparts. If price is the overriding factor in your decision making, consider this: after four or five years, an energy-efficient washer will have paid back the extra money it cost to buy, thanks to lower utility bills. Also, some states offer rebates to consumers who buy energy-efficient or Energy Star washers.

Energy Star
Designed to promote efficient energy usage in homes and businesses, the Energy Star program is a joint effort of the Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy. To meet Energy Star guidelines, a full-size washer must have an MEF greater than or equal to 1.72.

According to program officials, Energy Star qualified washers use 50 percent less energy than a standard washer and significantly less water: about 18 to 25 gallons per load, instead of approximately 40 gallons. These washing machines also tend to extract more water from the clothing while spinning, reducing necessary dryer time.

Both top-loading and front-loading clothes washers can qualify for ENERGY STAR, although front loaders generally use less energy and water than top-loaders.

In 2007, Energy Star also started measuring water efficiency, ensuring that all washers with its label meet a Water Factor (WF) requirement of 8 or less. The WF is determined by dividing the gallons of water used per cycle by the tub capacity. The lower the WF, the less water the machine uses.

The Energy Star Web site, www.energystar.gov, offers more information about home energy efficiency, including special offers or rebates and a list of Energy Star qualified washers.

Water Conservation
According to the American Water Works Association, clothes washers account for 20.1 percent of water used daily in a typical single-family home with no water-saving fixtures. It amounts to 15.1 gallons daily, second only to toilets, which use 20.1 gallons. A water-saving washer automatically saves energy, because about 90 percent of the energy used to wash clothes goes toward heating the water.

Energy Saving Tips
Whether or not you buy an Energy Star washer, you can save energy by:

• Washing full loads

• Adjusting the water level setting for small loads

• Using cold water (or warm instead of hot) and cold-water detergent whenever possible

• Use a high-speed or extended spin cycle to minimize dryer time

Extract from Kitchens.com

Stain Removal

Even the most fastidious among us have trouble avoiding the occasional drip of coffee or splash of marinara. Although clothing stains can be very stubborn, they can almost always be removed if dealt with promptly and properly. Andrea Ross, head of the wardrobe department at CBS Television, shares her expertise on stain removal.

When removing stains, use the gentlest techniques and products possible, working up gradually to stronger methods for stains that resist. Although it may be tempting to dunk a garment into a sink of suds or drown a stain in club soda, Andrea advocates a milder approach. She always has a clean, colorfast towel rolled up behind the cloth to absorb the stain. She uses ice-cold water, which is sprayed onto a towel and dabbed onto the material. Dabbing, not rubbing, is key -- you don't want to end up rubbing the stain into the fabric. Often, if a stain is fresh, this step is the only one necessary.

Martha asks Andrea to tackle a classic problem -- coffee spilled on a white shirt. Since the shirt is washable, Andrea's first step is to flush the stain with cold water. If this doesn't do the trick, she rubs the spot with ice; the rolled towel behind the cloth absorbs the stain as the ice coaxes it out of the fabric. If some of the coffee colors remains, Andrea moves on to white vinegar -- a natural, mild bleach. Just a bit, applied with a cotton swab, is all that is usually needed. At this point, the cloth can be laundered as usual, although it is important not to use hot water, as the heat can set the stain if any color remains.

For organic stains, such as grass or blood, Andrea uses a "digestant" -- a detergent containing enzymes that dissolve the proteins in the stain -- applied with a swab or toothbrush. Wisk Away and Shout are examples of digestants. An important note: Never use a digestant on wool or silk; these fibers contain protein and will be permanently damaged by these cleaners.

With older stains of undetermined origin, the first step is to try scraping the spot with a brush or fingernail. If the stain is caked on, this will remove some of the excess. Next, try dabbing the spot with cold water on a clean white towel. This will give you an idea as to whether the stain will come up and will also let you know if the fabric is colorfast. If no dye from the fabric comes off on the towel, it is probably safe to wash with a mild soap. If the stain doesn't budge, or if the garment is not washable or colorfast, your best choice is to go to a professional cleaner.

For a comprehensive guide to stain removal, see our Stain First Aid Chart.

Tips from Martha

How to Remove Stains

There is no single technique or product that takes care of every spot and spill, but with the right information and supplies, many stains can be removed.

If a garment isn't washable, the safest thing is to take it to a dry cleaner, although there are some treatments you can try at home (see Stain First Aid Chart). If you stain a washable garment, the golden rule is: Act quickly. For a liquid, gently blot up any excess with a white cloth, working from the outside in, so you don't spread the stain; do not press hard or rub. Sprinkle an oily stain with cornstarch. If it's a dollop of something, like ketchup, scoop off any excess. Dab the area with cool water, which will lighten most spots and remove others altogether.

Textile and stain experts recommend certain stain removal supplies for each problem. Start small, using cotton swabs and eyedroppers. Often, you'll start with one treatment, then follow up with another, since many stains have more than one component: With lipstick or tomato sauce, for example, you have to treat the oil in the stain, then remove the color. After using a remedy, always wash the garment as you normally would, but look at the area you treated before you dry it; repeat the treatment if necessary, or try another.

Always test stain-removal techniques in a hidden area of the garment, like an inside seam. There are no guarantees -- sometimes stain-removal techniques do more harm than good -- so if you have a particularly vexing stain or a valuable, delicate piece of clothing, take it to a professional. And unfortunately, some things just won't come out. With permanent ink, for example, the operative word is "permanent."

Stain First Aid Chart

Combination Solvents
(Shout, Spray 'n Wash)
All-purpose stain removers, particularly good on greasy stains.

Oil Solvents
(K2r, Afta)
Also called dry-cleaning fluid, these remove oily, greasy stains. Safe on nonwashables. Use only on dry fabric in a well-ventilated area. Air clothes after using.

Digestants
(Biz, Era Plus, Wisk)
Also called enzyme cleaners, these detergents contain enzymes that "eat" protein stains, like grass, blood, and egg yolk. Apply directly to damp fabric, or dilute in water, and then soak clothes. Use cold water when treating blood stains. Wool and silk are proteins, so digestants should never be used on these fibers.

Absorbants
(cornstarch, talcum powder)
Sprinkle on fresh grease stains, wait 10 to 15 minutes, then scrape off. Then you can treat the stain.

Detergents
A mild, clear-liquid dishwashing detergent is an effective all-purpose cleaner. Apply it straight, wait five minutes, then flush or dab with water.

Bleaches
Remove the color left behind by stains with mild bleaches, such as lemon juice, white vinegar (mixed 1:1 with water), 2 percent or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, or ammonia (2 parts water to 1 part ammonia; do not use on wool or silk). Use a cotton swab to dab the bleach, or place paper towels under the fabric, and use an eyedropper to flush the area with the proper bleach. Chlorine bleach, diluted with water, is a last resort.

Denatured Alcohol
Effective at breaking down some stains and evaporates without leaving a residue.

Mineral Spirits
For greasy stains, like tar. Air clothes after using.

Glycerin
Available at drugstores, it is particularly good for ballpoint ink.

Tips from Martha

The Wash Cycle

Of the many household tasks, doing the laundry seems to be a no-brainer: Put clothes in the washer, add detergent, and press start. But regular washing can take a toll on your garments. Here's how to prevent white shirts from turning gray, sort your bright clothing (hint: you need more than one pile), undo the damage when colors run, and perform many other tricks that will keep your clothes and linens in near-original condition.

How to Keep Whites White
The main reason white items turn gray or become dull is incorrect sorting. People generally have few all-white loads, so they tend to mix whites with colored garments. Unfortunately, some types of fabric, notably cotton, aren't colorfast, so their dye molecules wind up in the wash water and settle on other fabrics, noticeably on white and other light ones. Washing heavily soiled items, such as athletic socks, with lightly soiled ones, such as sheets, can also lead to dinginess. Unless you add enough detergent to hold the dirt in suspension, it will end up back on the very articles you intended to clean. Water quality, too, can affect how your whites emerge from the washer. Iron-laden water and hard water (rich in calcium and magnesium) can render detergents less effective and cause staining.

What to Do
Wash whites separately. The best way to retain whiteness is to launder white items together in the hottest water the fabric will tolerate ;water that is at least 120 degrees Fehrenheit (49 degrees Celcius) is most effective at removing soil. Choose detergent with a bleach alternative and/or enzymes, using the maximum amount recommended.

Add a laundry booster. You can increase the cleaning power of a detergent by adding a booster, such as borax, oxygen bleach, or washing soda to help maintain whiteness. Before washing, soak heavily soiled items using an enzyme detergent (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets) or oxygen bleach, and launder them separately.

Pretreat body-oil marks. To remove perspiration and other greasy stains, pretreat with liquid detergent, dishwashing liquid, or shampoo (use colorless ones to avoid dye transfer). Gently rub the liquid into the fabric using a clean toothbrush or complexion brush.

Tackle colored stains. Address food spills, such as coffee or juice, and underarm yellowing, which is residue from antiperspirant or deodorant, by applying undiluted liquid oxygen bleach directly to the fabric immediately before laundering.

Use a color remover. Once a month or when your whites become dull, wash them with a color remover (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Alternatively, soak items in boiling water and oxygen bleach in a basin (this is suitable only for fabrics that won't shrink). You may have to experiment to determine which technique whitens best.

Accept less than perfect. Even with meticulous sorting, don't expect whites to stay fluorescent bright forever. When white fabrics are manufactured, they are often treated with optical brighteners, which are chemicals that boost whiteness. They will eventually wash out and cannot be replaced.

Minerals and water: If your water has a high iron content (look for reddish stains in the shower and toilet), launder with an iron-removing product (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Don't use chlorine bleach: Combined with iron and hot water, it can yellow clothing. Instead, use oxygen bleach, which is a more effective (and more environmentally friendly) alternative. For hard water (evidenced by rough, hard-to-clean deposits on bathroom fixtures), some detergent labels call for using larger amounts. If your water is particularly hard, you may not be able to get whites pristine unless you install a water softener, which removes minerals.

How to Keep Darks Dark
During the wash cycle, articles of clothing collide with one another and the washer's interior, which causes some of the fibers in the fabric to break, exposing the raw fiber ends. This friction disrupts the surface of the fabric, tricking the eye into seeing less color. Tumble drying can cause similar damage, though to a lesser extent. Also, washing darks in warm or hot water can hasten dye loss. With some fabrics, expect a certain amount of fading; theres no such thing, for instance, as truly colorfast cotton.

What to Do
Wash darks separately. To help preserve dark items' original colors and prevent bleeding onto lighter clothes, wash darks together using the cold-water cycle (60-80 degrees Fehrenheit / 16-27 degrees Celcius).

Use the shortest cycle. Select the appropriate setting depending on how soiled the clothes are and what fabric they're made of. As far as detergents go, experts say that they don't really contribute to fading. While some formulas are designed specifically for darks, any liquid detergent without a bleach alternative is suitable (liquids work better in cold water; powders may not dissolve fully).

Minimize abrasion. Prepare your clothes for the washer by closing zippers, fastening hooks, and turning items inside out. Also, wash items of similar weight together -- that is, don't wash a cashmere sweater and jeans in the same load just because they're dark blue.

Line-dry darks. Whenever possible, hang dark items to dry (out of direct sunlight); this helps maintain their original appearance. When you do use the dryer, opt for the lowest temperature suitable for the material, and be careful not to overdry your clothes. Remove them from the machine as soon as they're dry or even while they're slightly damp; this will help keep shrinkage to a minimum.

Washing in winter: Although cold water helps prevent dark clothing from fading, frigid outdoor temperatures may cause the washer's water temperature to fall below 40 degrees, rendering even detergents designed to work in cold water ineffective. If you live in an area with particularly chilly winters, don't use the cold-water wash setting during that time of year. Instead, select a warm-water wash and a cold rinse.

How to Keep Brights Bright
As with darks, wear and tear in the washer and dryer as well as warm and hot water can cause colors to fade. Deep, bright garments often shed a little dye over time, so some color loss is inevitable.

Separate by color intensity. Launder colored items in two groups: brights and pastels. Wash brand-new brights on their own for the first few cycles, when they're most likely to bleed significant amounts of dye.

Turn items inside out. Keep brights looking good longer by reversing them before washing. Choose the shortest cycle appropriate for the soil level and fabric.

When colors run: Forget soaking your bright fabrics in salt or vinegar to forestall bleeding; it won't help. If brights do bleed onto other clothing in the wash, don't put the stained items in the dryer. The heat will set the dye, making any discoloration permanent. Instead, launder the clothes again separately. As long as you don't apply heat, the dye should come out, even if you don't rewash the items immediately.

Tips from Martha

Laundry's Tips

Tips on Laundry

Separate and Presoak Laundry
Follow the washing instructions that appear on the label of each garment. Separate laundry into batches, such as dark fabrics, shirts, towels, underwear, and rags. Launder clothing in the shape in which they are to be worn: zipped, velcroed, and buttoned up, with pockets empied and cuffs unrolled. Always presoak heavily soiled items and dinner napkins in an enzyme detergent either in the washer or in a basin; wash the following day. First, launder your batch of white fabrics. Wash white towels on the hottest setting with no bleach.

Detergents
There is a wide variety of laundry detergents from which to choose. Powdered detergents work best for hard water and for removing mud and clay. Liquid detergents are good for taking out grease, oily dirt, and stains, and work very well as a pretreatment. A good tip to follow is to buy laundry detergent in bulk and pour it into smaller bottles or airtight containers. Also, always wear household gloves and old clothes when you hand-wash items in bleach.

Color-fast Test
Martha suggests always checking for colorfastness on dark clothing before washing. To do a colorfast test, dampen fabric in a discreet spot and blot with a white cloth to see if any color appears. If color does appear, wash the item separately until it becomes colorfast.

Removing Oil Stains
Use cornstarch to help absorb oil stains. Sprinkle the stain with cornstarch, wait 10 to 15 minutes and scrape off.

Easier Ironing and Drying
For easier ironing, remove items from dryer while still damp. This will help prevent wrinkles from setting in. Clean the lint drawer before drying each load of laundry.

Washing Pillows
Most pillows should be washed every 3 to 6 months. Check tags to make sure the pillows are not "dry clean only" Wash them in the gentle cycle with warm water and mild detergent. Be sure to check the tag to see if you can dry the pillows in the dryer. When drying pillows, add tennis balls in a sock to the dryer, which will help break up clumps of filling. This tip also works well for down jackets and comforters.

Tips from Martha

All about Cotton

FIBERS

Here is a detailed description on types of fibers commonly used in making bedsheet sets.

CARE

All our sheets and towels are machine washable. As they are natural fibers, though, they can shrink or be damaged if improperly taken care of. The rule of thumb is to wash on cool, dry on low.

Wrinkling/Ironing
Our sheets also iron well, if you are concerned about wrinkling. But we realize that the larger sheets are unwieldy and inconvenient to iron constantly. In Italy, the Italians mostly line-dry to take care of that problem. If this is impossible, the next best thing to do is to fold once and hang your sheets over the shower curtain rod. The weight of the water in the fabric after washing will pull out most wrinkles. Another thing you can do is iron directly on the bed. We do recommend that you iron your sheets occasionally to keep them in top form.

Fabric Softeners and Drier Sheets
Fabric softeners and drier sheets do affect towel absorbency power, so avoid them when washing towels or robes.

Other topics/Bleach...
Bleach is not recommended, but very mild bleach can be used.

How to choose Iron

Five items to consider before buying an iron.

1. Heat

The ideal iron should have adjustable settings for delicate to cotton fabrics, an auto-off to turn the iron off after a pre-set time and an option for steam or heat only with no steam.

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2. Steam

Steam is the best wrinkle remover. Look for an iron with a burst of steam feature to help with tough wrinkles, a spray nozzle to pre-moisten fabrics and a clear gauge on the water tank for ease in filling. A self-cleaning feature uses a burst of steam to clear clogs in the soleplate of the iron and will save those iron-colored droplets appearing on your white shirt.

3. Surface

Non-stick soleplates are most often the same non-stick surface as cookware and are the easiest to clean. Stainless steel or aluminum also transfer heat well but may need to be scrubbed to remove built-up starch or sizing.

4. Cords

The easiest iron to use is a cordless rechargeable iron. But if you're purchasing one with a cord look for an extra long cord and a reversible or pivoting cord allowing left- and right-handers to use it comfortably - no excuses!

5. Weight

Depending on where you like to pump iron - the gym or the laundry - irons can weigh between one and a half to three pounds. A heavier iron will cover a greater pressing area but a light-weight iron may work best for light or infrequent sessions.

How to avoid Ironing Mistakes

Ironing clothes can be a tricky job. With so many fabric types, pleats, tucks, seams, etc. getting the wrinkles out can give even the best housekeeper a headache. Find out the top 7 ironing mistakes we make and how to avoid them. Some of them begin before we ever turn on our iron.

1. Letting clothes over-dry.

Clothes are very difficult to iron when they are fully dry or over dried in the dryer. Over-dried clothes can be very difficult to reshape. Try to remove clothes when they are still slightly damp. If you line dry your clothes, bring them inside to iron when they are not quite dry.

2. Overfilling the dryer.

It would seem like stuffing as many clothes as can fit into a dryer would save us time, but more than likely it will only lengthen the time you spend caring for your clothing. An average dryer should be only 1/2 full in order to allow freedom for all clothing to move. If too many articles of clothing are in the dryer, it will create monster wrinkles, and make your ironing much more difficult.

3. Forgetting to shake and smoothe.

When clothing is removed from the dryer, it frequently sits in a basket waiting to be ironed. Take a few minutes and shake out your clothing. Reshape garments, and smooth out seams and pleats. Even if clothing still needs to be ironed, it will be a much smoother process.

4. Not using the sprayer.

Many irons today come with a built in sprayer to dampen clothes during ironing. If yours doesn't have one, purchase a new inexpensive empty spray bottle to use. Dampen the clothing when you are ready to begin ironing. Wrinkles will fall out of the clothing as you iron. If you don't use the sprayer to soften up the clothing, ironing is much more difficult and for some garments, impossible.

5. Using Hard Water.

Tap water may be okay to use in your iron, depending on what type of water you have. People with hard water risk damaging their iron. Read the instructions for your iron, and if in doubt, use distilled water in your iron.

6. Improper use of starches and sizers.

Starches and sizers are a great tool when ironing, but they must be used properly. Spray these products as you iron, but allow them to actually penetrate into the garment before ironing over them. Allowing just a few seconds for the clothing to soak up the starch or sizer, will keep your iron's soleplate from becoming built-up with product residue.

7. Ironing heavyweight fabrics first.

If you have a large pile of ironing to do, try to iron your lightest silk, synthetic, and delicate fabrics first. These need to be ironed on low temperatures. Once the iron heats up, and you've ironed your lightweights, you can move on to the wools, cottens, linens, etc.

http://housekeeping.about.com/od/surfacefabric/a/ironmistakes.htm

How to select ironing board cover

Any cover should be smooth and permeable to heat and steam. Teflon-coated cotton covers will not stick to your clothes and make it easy to clean away any build-up of starch or sizing. The best pad is one made of felt. It will hold its shape better than a foam pad.

How to choose laundry detergent

Many people are as loyal to their laundry detergent as they are to their favorite cola. Some just buy what their mother used and others buy what’s on sale. With so many choices on the market, you’re sure to find one that you like and cleans your laundry.

Liquid or Powdered?

General purpose detergents are available in liquid or powdered form. Both clean clothes well. However, liquid detergents are very effecting on greasy, oily stains and can be easily used as a pretreater. Powdered detergents are usually less expensive to use per load. They are effective on clay and ground-in dirt. Take a look at your family’s needs and that will help you make a decision.

Liquids and powders can both be used in cold water; however, some powdered detergents do not dissolve well in lower temperatures. If this is a problem, use a higher wash temperature or dissolve the powder in a cup of hot water before adding it to the wash. Both types are available in concentrated or ultra forms. Be sure to read the labels to ensure that you are using the correct amount.

Combination products

A combination detergent does two jobs. Examples include a detergent plus fabric softener or color-safe bleach or bleach alternative. Some of these features enhance a detergent’s performance. The best way to determine if you can see a difference is to give them a try and decide for yourself if the extra expense makes your laundry look better. {h3]Specialty Detergents

Detergents that are designed for hand washing or machine washing delicate items are less harsh than regular detergents. Made for light soil and delicate fabrics, they are a good choice in the right situation.

For baby’s laundry and those sensitive to fragrances and dyes, chose a detergent that is free from those ingredients. Scented detergents smell great but may compete with your cologne or perfume – Apple Mango and Chanel No. 5 don’t always go together!

http://laundry.about.com/od/laundrybasics/a/choosedetergent.htm

Cotton & Linen Care

Cotton

Cotton fibers can be weakened by chlorine bleach. Undiluted bleach should never be applied directly to the fibers. Dilute solutions can be used safely on cotton or cellulosic fibers for stain removal and whitening. However, even dilute solutions will weaken fibers causing them to rip and wear out if used too often.

Extremely high temperatures when ironing can scorch cellulosic fibers. The scorching or yellowing occurs as the fibers begin to burn. Burned fibers cannot be revived.

Linen

Linen fibers can be weakened by chlorine bleach. Undiluted bleach should never be applied directly to the fibers. Dilute solutions can be used safely on linen or cellulosic fibers for stain removal and whitening. However, even dilute solutions will weaken fibers causing them to rip and wear out if used too often.

Extremely high temperatures when ironing can scorch cellulosic fibers. The scorching or yellowing occurs as the fibers begin to burn. Burned fibers cannot be revived.

Basics of Laundry

Learn to sort laundry by color and fabric; choose detergent and water temperature; pre-treating stains and drying methods.

Care by Type of Fabric (24)
Hand-Washing (2)
Definitions (19)
Pet Laundry and Stains (4)
Detergent Selection (3)

What is Cotton Sateen ?

Those who like soft, smooth sheets on their beds probably love sateen sheets. Sateen is a cotton fabric with a luster resembling that of satin. It is used for sheets and apparel.

Sateen starts with long-fiber, combed or carded cotton. The cotton is then mercerized to bring out a sheen. Mercerization involves soaking the fiber in a bath of sodium hydroxide (i.e., lye) and then in an acid bath. The result makes the cotton fiber stronger and more easily dyed. It also adds a luster to the fibers.

This mercerized luster is one of the hallmarks of good sateen. Sateen should be very soft to the touch, with a high thread count, and should drape well. Sateen fabric uses the satin stitch in construction, which means the threads are mostly on one side of the fabric, giving that smooth look.

One other type of sateen is lining sateen. Sateen used for lining jackets or wraps is usually a heavy, luxurious, yet sturdy fabric. This kind of sateen may be made from silk, wool, nylon, polyester, or any other fabric that would produce the type of lustrous fabric required.

Sateen has been a popular fabric since the early 1900s. Being made of cotton, it is much cheaper than silk satin, and is also more durable, as well as being machine washable. In the early 20th century, sateen was often used for women's undergarments because of its durability and smooth feel.

Sateen sheets have become popular as people want more luxurious fabrics in their homes and have found that sheets with a higher thread count are more durable. They are more expensive, however, and a set of 400 thread-count sateen sheets for a queen size bed can run anywhere from $80 US Dollars (USD) to well over $100 USD.

Shoppers who like crisp, ironed sheets should probably look for percale in stores. Percale sheets are more like a traditional cotton fabric and some prefer their crisper feel. They are also less expensive than sateen, in general.

Sateen is a useful, durable fabric that will probably continue to be popular in the textile industry.

How to wash Egyptian Cotton Bed Linen

Washing Egyptian Cotton Bed Sheets & Towels
Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.

Egyptian Cotton linens become softer and more luxurious with washing. You may find that your bed linens are more likely to wrinkle, until they have been washed a few times.

Washing your bed linens
Always wash your Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Bed Linen should be washed in warm water (no higher than 40C), using a gentle detergent followed by a cold rinse. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens. Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling.

Unlike man made fibers, cotton will benefit from line-drying, leaving them almost wrinkle free and smelling fresh. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying.

After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.

A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.

Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.

Washing bath towels
We would recommend washing your towels before use. This helps to “break them in”, which makes them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are needed before 100% Egyptian cotton towels are at their maximum absorbency and softness.

Launder towels in warm water (no higher than 40C) and a gentle detergent. You should note that the use of fabric softeners will impair the absorbency of the towel.

A natural fiber such as cotton will benefit from line drying, leaving them smelling fresh and wrinkle free. If you wish you may also tumble dry on a low heat. Use the cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkles. Shaking your linen before putting it into the tumble dryer will also help reduce creasing. Remove from the tumble dryer promptly after cycle.

Washing Cotton Bed Sheets: Percale Sheets, Cotton Sateen Sheets and Egyptian Cotton Sheets

Cotton percale refers to a closely woven, high thread count combed cotton fabric. Thread count refers to the number of horizontal and vertical threads used to create one square inch of fabric. Most people think percale refers to the fabric content, however, it really refers to the weave of the fabric. Cotton percale sheets typically have a thread count of 180 or more and can be easily home laundered. Cotton Percale is known to wash well and last for many years.

Cotton sateen is generally made from combed thread, but uses a finer thread than cotton percale. It is woven differently and generally has a higher thread count than percale as finer threads are used. Cotton sateen sheets have a tendency to lose their sheen after the first washing, due to the type of construction of a sateen weave. However, ironing cotton sateen sheets after washing will immediately smooth the fibers and restore the luster and silkiness of the fabric.

Egyptian cotton is considered to be one of the finer types of cotton, as it refers to a long staple fine cotton usually grown in northern Africa. Due to the long staple fiber of Egyptian cotton, bedding made of this fabric is durable as well as silky smooth. Long staple cotton is less likely to become rough, pill and exhibit surface balling, all which detract from the longevity of a fabric. Hand picked long staple Egyptian cotton is even more durable as hand picking, rather than mechanical picking, leaves cotton fibers straight, long and intact.

Egyptian cotton that has undergone a mercerization process is the most durable type of Egyptian cotton. Mercerization is a process whereby a cotton yarn or fabric is passed through a controlled heat atmosphere (termed singeing) and then treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide). This process burns any fuzz off of the cotton yarn and ultimately results in cotton that has a higher luster and dye affinity. Subsequently, repeated washing is less likely to lead to fading, in color or luster, of your mercerized Egyptian cotton sheets. A little known, but very important fact, is that Egyptian cotton is the best type of cotton fabric for allergy sufferers. This is due to the fact that good Egyptian cotton is hand-picked from organically-grown harvests.

Always wash your cotton percale sheets, cotton sateen sheets and Egyptian cotton sheets in a separate load than your regular laundry, as zippers, hooks and buttons have a tendency to damage cotton linens. Take care to always use a gentle wash cycle with a cold temperature setting, and a mild detergent. Quality, pH balanced detergents, such as Tide, are recommended when laundering fine cotton linens. Chlorinated bleach is not recommended as it will damage quality cotton bedding fibers over time. If necessary, non-chlorinated bleach can be used with white and ivory cotton linens.

Removing cotton sheets promptly after washing will reduce wrinkling. Shaking linens out prior to placing them in the dryer will reduce wrinkling as well. When machine drying, use a warm temperature setting, remove sheets while they are still slightly damp and hang to finish drying. After remaking your bed, smooth your cotton sheets by hand to minimize wrinkles. Ironing is a matter of choice but not usually necessary for cotton sheets. However, some people prefer to iron their cotton sheets for a crisper appearance.

Problem with my new Washing Machine Electrolux EWF1090

Eeerrghh!

Just bought a ELECTROLUX EWF1090 8kg Washer and one of the button is spoilt! And I had chosen Electrolux as I thought that this is a Brand that is so trustable...uurgh

And the worse is I keep calling the Electrolux customer service and the phone line is busy all the time. Left my number in the mailbox but nobody returned my call!

What a Great Expectation :(

10 easy tips to help you choose the right washing machine

1. Measure the space that you have to put your washing machine in order to know the size limit of the washer that you can buy.

2. What is the capacity of washer that you need.ie. how many kg loading?

3. Define what are the "must have" features in the washer that you need.

4. Define what are the " must not" in the washer so that you can eliminate the inappropriate washers from your list.

5. Define your budget.

6. Talk to various salespersons to understand what kind of washers there are in current market.

7. Compare between comparable brands and models of the same range that you are looking at.

8. Decide on which brand and model you want. You may consider factors such as reliability, performance, cost, service supportability, warranty, ease of use, etc.

9. Once you have decided on the brand and model of the washer, compare among a few different shops to get the best price.

10. Buy that washer of your choice!

All about washing machine

All about Washing Machine

http://www.washingmachineadvisor.com/

How to buy a washing machine

Buying a washing machine is unlike getting a new ipod or a new iphone. Instead of small sleek look, you may look for a big size washing machine. Instead of fancy colorful design, you may just prefer one that is functional and does its job effectively instead.

There are a few factors you need to think about when you are planning to buy a washing machine.
Here are a few important considerations on your washing machine shopping list.

Which Type?

There are two main types of washing machines - front load and top load. A front loading machine is slightly more expensive compared to the traditional top loader. However it consumes lesser water and is more energy efficient in the long run. A front loader also obliterates the need for an agitator. This means that your clothes are subject to less wear and motion and thus, can last longer. If you have the budget and is unlikely to change the washing machine, a front loader would be your best choice.

What Size?

It really depends on how big is your household, what kind of clothes you need to wash and whether you have sufficient space for the washing machine. Obviously, a bigger size washing machine naturally is able to wash more loads per cycle, but remember, the bigger the washing machine, the more you need to pay upfront. Also, expects to consumer more water and electricity.

What Features?

Washing machines nowadays come with fancy features such as automatic load balancer, automatic water-level controls, delay cycle feature and more. Find out what are the advantages and disadvantages of these features. You may be surprised to know that most people seldom use the features except for the normal ones like spin and dry. So do not fall for the salesperson talk unless you really find it useful to have. After all, these features do not come free.

Visit http://www.washingmachineadvisor.com for more washing machine tips, bendix washing machine review and advice on various washing machines brands.

Washing machines: buying guide

What you should look for when buying a washing machine for your laundry and the pros and cons of different types of washers. Washing machines are an essential part of the modern laundry. There are many options on the market, with each manufacturer trying to offer a washer that’s quicker, quieter, gentler, more reliable, or simply more intelligent than the rest. Ultimately, you should buy a washing machine that’s right for your needs, budget and lifestyle. Let’s look at the features that you’ll find when you go shopping.
LG washing machines

The LG titanium and front loading washing machines. Source: Supplied
Features to consider
Capacity

The most important consideration of a washing machine is its capacity, as the washer obviously needs to be able to handle your washing needs. A capacity is measured in kilograms – with a medium sized washer being 6kg-7kg. This will be enough for a family with a couple of children.
Water efficiency

Washing machines are rated for water efficiency by the Water Services Association of Australia. The AAAAA water conservation rating helps you identify which washers will use more water than others with the same capacity. Not only is this useful for environmentally-conscious consumers, it helps your household budget too. For more on water efficiency click here.
Laundry Products

* Dryers - 39S555L
Dryers - 39S555L

A Simpson dryer with a 5kg capacity, fully featured electronic controls, auto cool down cycle, automatic timer, and a stainless steel drum.Overal...
* Double 70/40 Laundry Tub
Double 70/40 Laundry Tub

The Clarimont is a flush fitting double laundry tub to meet the needs of large Australian families. It can be soaking, washing & rinsing at the s...
* Omega WD9500 Front Loading Washer
Omega WD9500 Front Loading Washer

Front loading, washer ? condenser dryer, stainless steel inner and outer drums. Overall dimensions 950mmH x 630mmW x 780mmD Warranty 2 years par...
* Single Compact 35l Laundry Unit
Single Compact 35l Laundry Unit

Designed to take the strain of everyday family life, the Clark stainless steel tub and Permacoat cabinet is both durable and long-lasting.Find ou...
* Dryer - 39P350L
Dryer - 39P350L

A Simpson dryer with 3.5 kg capacity, auto cool down cycle, 2 1/2 hour timer, mechanical control, and a colorbond drum.Overall Dimensions:Overall...

View more Laundry products
Energy efficiency

Washing machines are one of the appliances that are rated with the familiar Energy Star rating system. More efficient washers generally cost more to buy, but there are considerable savings to be made over the washer’s lifetime. For more on energy efficiency click here
Motor

A washing machine is a complex piece of machinery. The motor is often so heavy a counterweight is needed. It’s connected to the drum via a gearbox and, commonly, a belt. Make sure you’re buying a washing machine with a drive system that’s been optimised for the rigours of washing, and better yet, a warranty on the motor. Some manufacturers are now getting innovative with systems such as direct drive, which connects the motor directly to the drum and removes the belt transmission – and the risk of it breaking.
Volume

Washing machines vibrate, and start to shriek as they spin faster. Consider where your washer will be located, how close it will be to living areas, and how quiet it needs to be. If possible, try and gauge exactly how loud it is before you buy it. At a minimum look for a washer which has a dampener system to cushion the drum from the outer casing.
Length of wash

Washing time can be important for people on the run. While there are a variety of ‘fast wash’ settings out there, as a rule a top-loader is much shorter than a front-loader which can take anywhere up to two hours. If time is of the essence investigate wash times before you buy.
Programs

Different washing machines have a different array of settings. Spin speed, handwashing, gentle cycles, and more – if you will be washing a certain type of clothing, buy a washer with a setting to suit. Washing machines also offer varying levels of automation. The state of the art models offer one touch automatic load sensing, with the washer detecting how much clothing is inside, what types of clothes they are, and even how dirty they are, before creating a wash cycle to suit.
Controls

Make sure the controls on your washer are accessible and easy to understand. Older and cheaper machines will have mechanical knobs; newer models will have digital buttons and display screens.
Filter

As washing machines clean your clothes, they strip lint away. This is particularly a problem on top loaders as they have a rougher washing action than front loaders. Make sure your top loader comes with a lint filter to ensure the best wash. It’s not essential for front loaders, and thus not a standard feature.
Base

The legs of a washing machine are important for two reasons. First of all, a washing machine is a heavy piece of equipment and can vibrate too. Consequently, legs should be sturdy and wide enough to distribute the weight. This is especially a concern if you are sitting the washer on a surface like wood – you don’t want to leave pockmarks. Secondly, a washing machine must be level at all times for it to work properly. As most laundry floors slope towards a drain, you should look for a washer that has adjustable legs.
Types of washing machines
Top loader

This is the most common type of washing machine. Clothes are placed into the top of the washer, and a lid closed over the top. There are two types, an agitator and an impeller. First, here are general points about top loaders:
Pros

* Generally cheaper than front loaders
* No fuss to throw more clothes in the wash midway through cycle
* Faster wash cycle
* Lighter weight
* Biggest range available – especially large capacity washers

Cons

* Water hungry
* Less energy efficient than front loader
* Uses more detergent
* Higher ongoing cost
* Rougher on clothes

Top loader - agitator

This is by far the most common type of top loader. Clothes are moved around by the agitator - a winged pole in the middle of the drum.
Pros

* Bigger range available for any budget

Cons

* Rougher on clothes than impeller

Top loader - impeller

Much less common than an agitator machine, an impeller looks like a propeller or fan and sits at the bottom of the washing machine drum. It whips up the water to move the clothes around.
Pros

* No agitator may mean larger capacity

Cons

* Tends to entangle clothes with its action
* More likely to shut down due to drum being out of balance
* Uses more water than agitator

Front loader

This washing machine looks like a clothes dryer, with a clear door at the front for placing clothes inside. It moves clothes around by rotating the drum, tumbling them in the same way a dryer does.
Pros

* Lower ongoing costs than a top loader
* Generally more water efficient
* Generally more energy efficient
* Uses less detergent
* Generally a more thorough wash
* Not as rough on clothes
* Faster spin speed means shorter drying times

Cons

* Higher initial cost
* Generally can’t add clothes to wash midway through cycle
* Slower wash cycle – although some models have a quick setting
* More likely to crease clothes – look for a washer with anti-crease setting
* Heavier
* Smaller range and capacities available

Types Of Washing Machine

A Semi Automatic machine has twin tubs and performs all the three functions of washing, rinsing and spin-drying. One tub takes care of washing and rinsing and the other performs spin-drying. Once the wash and rinse cycles are completed in the wash tub, the clothes have to be manually transferred to the spin tub for drying. This model is a best buy for those of you who do not have a constant supply of water for some reason or the other. All leading brands offer good models with all the ultra-modern features and some brands like Samsung even offer a model with single tub!

Fully Automatic :
In a Fully Automatic machine all the three tasks of washing, rinsing and drying are performed by a single tub. This machine offers the convenience of selecting a program to perform any one or a specific combinations or all of the operations.

Our research confirmed that type is the most demanded and recommended one by the Indian consumers and the dealers respectively. Fully Automatic machine can be further classified into three categories based on their 'level of control.'

Neuro Fuzzy Control:
This gives you the ultimate level of control that you could desire. It has the ' sensors' which automatically detect the fabric type and accordingly determine the wash time, water and detergent required.

Fuzzy Control:
Fuzzy control has "load sensors' which indicate the amount of detergent and water required and determine the wash cycle based on the wash load.
This control allows you to save water, detergent and most importantly electricity, while the machine automatically estimates optimum wash time.

Conventional or Manual:
You are in charge here. You have to decide what you want the machine to do for you. The wash cycle, the water level as well as the detergent amount needs to be selected and set by you.

Based on loading options:

Top Loading: From the top, clothes are loaded.

Front Loading: From the front, clothes are loaded.

Energy use comparisons prove that Front Loading uses less water, detergent, and energy usually, and more effective in cleaning and washing. The latest top loaders has a poor performance since the regulations of the government have lessen the energy amount that they use, which results in ineffective cleaning and shortened cycles. However, Front Loaders consume a smaller amount of energy but even though they tend to have times for longer cycles. Front loaders lower the water and detergent amounts and consume less energy.