Thursday, January 22, 2009

Energy and Water efficiency for Washer

Washers

Energy and Water Efficiency

Efficient Clothes Washers
New washers have options to reduce the amount of water you use in a cycle.

Energy Standards for Washers
If it's been a while since you bought a washer, even regular models will be more efficient than your old one: U.S. Department of Energy standards for all clothes washers made or sold in the United States were raised on January 1, 2007. Look for the yellow and black EnergyGuide label, which will note the product's specifications.

The Modified Energy Factor (MEF) measures washer energy-efficiency. It is determined by dividing tub capacity by the total energy consumption per cycle (washing machine energy, water-heating energy and dryer energy). The higher the MEF, the more efficient the washing machine is. All standard-size top-loading and front-loading washers must have an MEF of 1.26 or greater.


High-Efficiency Washers
Today's energy-efficient washing machines are effective cleaners that cost only a few hundred dollars more than their standard counterparts. If price is the overriding factor in your decision making, consider this: after four or five years, an energy-efficient washer will have paid back the extra money it cost to buy, thanks to lower utility bills. Also, some states offer rebates to consumers who buy energy-efficient or Energy Star washers.

Energy Star
Designed to promote efficient energy usage in homes and businesses, the Energy Star program is a joint effort of the Environmental Protection Agency and the Department of Energy. To meet Energy Star guidelines, a full-size washer must have an MEF greater than or equal to 1.72.

According to program officials, Energy Star qualified washers use 50 percent less energy than a standard washer and significantly less water: about 18 to 25 gallons per load, instead of approximately 40 gallons. These washing machines also tend to extract more water from the clothing while spinning, reducing necessary dryer time.

Both top-loading and front-loading clothes washers can qualify for ENERGY STAR, although front loaders generally use less energy and water than top-loaders.

In 2007, Energy Star also started measuring water efficiency, ensuring that all washers with its label meet a Water Factor (WF) requirement of 8 or less. The WF is determined by dividing the gallons of water used per cycle by the tub capacity. The lower the WF, the less water the machine uses.

The Energy Star Web site, www.energystar.gov, offers more information about home energy efficiency, including special offers or rebates and a list of Energy Star qualified washers.

Water Conservation
According to the American Water Works Association, clothes washers account for 20.1 percent of water used daily in a typical single-family home with no water-saving fixtures. It amounts to 15.1 gallons daily, second only to toilets, which use 20.1 gallons. A water-saving washer automatically saves energy, because about 90 percent of the energy used to wash clothes goes toward heating the water.

Energy Saving Tips
Whether or not you buy an Energy Star washer, you can save energy by:

  • Washing full loads

  • Adjusting the water level setting for small loads

  • Using cold water (or warm instead of hot) and cold-water detergent whenever possible

  • Use a high-speed or extended spin cycle to minimize dryer time

Extract from Kitchens.com

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Cheap Furniture shops in Singapore

S&C
Blk 338 AMK Ave 1, #01-1647
TeL 6552 5208
Close at 7-8pm
Not much showpieces but lots of up to date catalogues
Mostly from China

Price normally 20%-50% cheaper than other furniture shop

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Stain Removal

Even the most fastidious among us have trouble avoiding the occasional drip of coffee or splash of marinara. Although clothing stains can be very stubborn, they can almost always be removed if dealt with promptly and properly. Andrea Ross, head of the wardrobe department at CBS Television, shares her expertise on stain removal.

When removing stains, use the gentlest techniques and products possible, working up gradually to stronger methods for stains that resist. Although it may be tempting to dunk a garment into a sink of suds or drown a stain in club soda, Andrea advocates a milder approach. She always has a clean, colorfast towel rolled up behind the cloth to absorb the stain. She uses ice-cold water, which is sprayed onto a towel and dabbed onto the material. Dabbing, not rubbing, is key -- you don't want to end up rubbing the stain into the fabric. Often, if a stain is fresh, this step is the only one necessary.

Martha asks Andrea to tackle a classic problem -- coffee spilled on a white shirt. Since the shirt is washable, Andrea's first step is to flush the stain with cold water. If this doesn't do the trick, she rubs the spot with ice; the rolled towel behind the cloth absorbs the stain as the ice coaxes it out of the fabric. If some of the coffee colors remains, Andrea moves on to white vinegar -- a natural, mild bleach. Just a bit, applied with a cotton swab, is all that is usually needed. At this point, the cloth can be laundered as usual, although it is important not to use hot water, as the heat can set the stain if any color remains.

For organic stains, such as grass or blood, Andrea uses a "digestant" -- a detergent containing enzymes that dissolve the proteins in the stain -- applied with a swab or toothbrush. Wisk Away and Shout are examples of digestants. An important note: Never use a digestant on wool or silk; these fibers contain protein and will be permanently damaged by these cleaners.

With older stains of undetermined origin, the first step is to try scraping the spot with a brush or fingernail. If the stain is caked on, this will remove some of the excess. Next, try dabbing the spot with cold water on a clean white towel. This will give you an idea as to whether the stain will come up and will also let you know if the fabric is colorfast. If no dye from the fabric comes off on the towel, it is probably safe to wash with a mild soap. If the stain doesn't budge, or if the garment is not washable or colorfast, your best choice is to go to a professional cleaner.

For a comprehensive guide to stain removal, see our Stain First Aid Chart.


Tips from Martha

How to Remove Stains

There is no single technique or product that takes care of every spot and spill, but with the right information and supplies, many stains can be removed.

If a garment isn't washable, the safest thing is to take it to a dry cleaner, although there are some treatments you can try at home (see Stain First Aid Chart). If you stain a washable garment, the golden rule is: Act quickly. For a liquid, gently blot up any excess with a white cloth, working from the outside in, so you don't spread the stain; do not press hard or rub. Sprinkle an oily stain with cornstarch. If it's a dollop of something, like ketchup, scoop off any excess. Dab the area with cool water, which will lighten most spots and remove others altogether.

Textile and stain experts recommend certain stain removal supplies for each problem. Start small, using cotton swabs and eyedroppers. Often, you'll start with one treatment, then follow up with another, since many stains have more than one component: With lipstick or tomato sauce, for example, you have to treat the oil in the stain, then remove the color. After using a remedy, always wash the garment as you normally would, but look at the area you treated before you dry it; repeat the treatment if necessary, or try another.

Always test stain-removal techniques in a hidden area of the garment, like an inside seam. There are no guarantees -- sometimes stain-removal techniques do more harm than good -- so if you have a particularly vexing stain or a valuable, delicate piece of clothing, take it to a professional. And unfortunately, some things just won't come out. With permanent ink, for example, the operative word is "permanent."

Stain First Aid Chart

Combination Solvents
(Shout, Spray 'n Wash)
All-purpose stain removers, particularly good on greasy stains.

Oil Solvents
(K2r, Afta)
Also called dry-cleaning fluid, these remove oily, greasy stains. Safe on nonwashables. Use only on dry fabric in a well-ventilated area. Air clothes after using.

Digestants
(Biz, Era Plus, Wisk)
Also called enzyme cleaners, these detergents contain enzymes that "eat" protein stains, like grass, blood, and egg yolk. Apply directly to damp fabric, or dilute in water, and then soak clothes. Use cold water when treating blood stains. Wool and silk are proteins, so digestants should never be used on these fibers.

Absorbants
(cornstarch, talcum powder)
Sprinkle on fresh grease stains, wait 10 to 15 minutes, then scrape off. Then you can treat the stain.

Detergents
A mild, clear-liquid dishwashing detergent is an effective all-purpose cleaner. Apply it straight, wait five minutes, then flush or dab with water.

Bleaches
Remove the color left behind by stains with mild bleaches, such as lemon juice, white vinegar (mixed 1:1 with water), 2 percent or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, or ammonia (2 parts water to 1 part ammonia; do not use on wool or silk). Use a cotton swab to dab the bleach, or place paper towels under the fabric, and use an eyedropper to flush the area with the proper bleach. Chlorine bleach, diluted with water, is a last resort.

Denatured Alcohol
Effective at breaking down some stains and evaporates without leaving a residue.

Mineral Spirits
For greasy stains, like tar. Air clothes after using.

Glycerin
Available at drugstores, it is particularly good for ballpoint ink.


Tips from Martha

The Wash Cycle

Of the many household tasks, doing the laundry seems to be a no-brainer: Put clothes in the washer, add detergent, and press start. But regular washing can take a toll on your garments. Here's how to prevent white shirts from turning gray, sort your bright clothing (hint: you need more than one pile), undo the damage when colors run, and perform many other tricks that will keep your clothes and linens in near-original condition.

How to Keep Whites White
The main reason white items turn gray or become dull is incorrect sorting. People generally have few all-white loads, so they tend to mix whites with colored garments. Unfortunately, some types of fabric, notably cotton, aren't colorfast, so their dye molecules wind up in the wash water and settle on other fabrics, noticeably on white and other light ones. Washing heavily soiled items, such as athletic socks, with lightly soiled ones, such as sheets, can also lead to dinginess. Unless you add enough detergent to hold the dirt in suspension, it will end up back on the very articles you intended to clean. Water quality, too, can affect how your whites emerge from the washer. Iron-laden water and hard water (rich in calcium and magnesium) can render detergents less effective and cause staining.

What to Do
Wash whites separately. The best way to retain whiteness is to launder white items together in the hottest water the fabric will tolerate ;water that is at least 120 degrees Fehrenheit (49 degrees Celcius) is most effective at removing soil. Choose detergent with a bleach alternative and/or enzymes, using the maximum amount recommended.

Add a laundry booster. You can increase the cleaning power of a detergent by adding a booster, such as borax, oxygen bleach, or washing soda to help maintain whiteness. Before washing, soak heavily soiled items using an enzyme detergent (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets) or oxygen bleach, and launder them separately.

Pretreat body-oil marks. To remove perspiration and other greasy stains, pretreat with liquid detergent, dishwashing liquid, or shampoo (use colorless ones to avoid dye transfer). Gently rub the liquid into the fabric using a clean toothbrush or complexion brush.

Tackle colored stains. Address food spills, such as coffee or juice, and underarm yellowing, which is residue from antiperspirant or deodorant, by applying undiluted liquid oxygen bleach directly to the fabric immediately before laundering.

Use a color remover. Once a month or when your whites become dull, wash them with a color remover (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Alternatively, soak items in boiling water and oxygen bleach in a basin (this is suitable only for fabrics that won't shrink). You may have to experiment to determine which technique whitens best.

Accept less than perfect. Even with meticulous sorting, don't expect whites to stay fluorescent bright forever. When white fabrics are manufactured, they are often treated with optical brighteners, which are chemicals that boost whiteness. They will eventually wash out and cannot be replaced.

Minerals and water: If your water has a high iron content (look for reddish stains in the shower and toilet), launder with an iron-removing product (available in the laundry aisle of many supermarkets). Don't use chlorine bleach: Combined with iron and hot water, it can yellow clothing. Instead, use oxygen bleach, which is a more effective (and more environmentally friendly) alternative. For hard water (evidenced by rough, hard-to-clean deposits on bathroom fixtures), some detergent labels call for using larger amounts. If your water is particularly hard, you may not be able to get whites pristine unless you install a water softener, which removes minerals.

How to Keep Darks Dark
During the wash cycle, articles of clothing collide with one another and the washer's interior, which causes some of the fibers in the fabric to break, exposing the raw fiber ends. This friction disrupts the surface of the fabric, tricking the eye into seeing less color. Tumble drying can cause similar damage, though to a lesser extent. Also, washing darks in warm or hot water can hasten dye loss. With some fabrics, expect a certain amount of fading; theres no such thing, for instance, as truly colorfast cotton.

What to Do
Wash darks separately. To help preserve dark items' original colors and prevent bleeding onto lighter clothes, wash darks together using the cold-water cycle (60-80 degrees Fehrenheit / 16-27 degrees Celcius).

Use the shortest cycle. Select the appropriate setting depending on how soiled the clothes are and what fabric they're made of. As far as detergents go, experts say that they don't really contribute to fading. While some formulas are designed specifically for darks, any liquid detergent without a bleach alternative is suitable (liquids work better in cold water; powders may not dissolve fully).

Minimize abrasion. Prepare your clothes for the washer by closing zippers, fastening hooks, and turning items inside out. Also, wash items of similar weight together -- that is, don't wash a cashmere sweater and jeans in the same load just because they're dark blue.

Line-dry darks. Whenever possible, hang dark items to dry (out of direct sunlight); this helps maintain their original appearance. When you do use the dryer, opt for the lowest temperature suitable for the material, and be careful not to overdry your clothes. Remove them from the machine as soon as they're dry or even while they're slightly damp; this will help keep shrinkage to a minimum.

Washing in winter: Although cold water helps prevent dark clothing from fading, frigid outdoor temperatures may cause the washer's water temperature to fall below 40 degrees, rendering even detergents designed to work in cold water ineffective. If you live in an area with particularly chilly winters, don't use the cold-water wash setting during that time of year. Instead, select a warm-water wash and a cold rinse.

How to Keep Brights Bright
As with darks, wear and tear in the washer and dryer as well as warm and hot water can cause colors to fade. Deep, bright garments often shed a little dye over time, so some color loss is inevitable.

Separate by color intensity. Launder colored items in two groups: brights and pastels. Wash brand-new brights on their own for the first few cycles, when they're most likely to bleed significant amounts of dye.

Turn items inside out. Keep brights looking good longer by reversing them before washing. Choose the shortest cycle appropriate for the soil level and fabric.

When colors run: Forget soaking your bright fabrics in salt or vinegar to forestall bleeding; it won't help. If brights do bleed onto other clothing in the wash, don't put the stained items in the dryer. The heat will set the dye, making any discoloration permanent. Instead, launder the clothes again separately. As long as you don't apply heat, the dye should come out, even if you don't rewash the items immediately.


Tips from Martha

Laundry's Tips

Tips on Laundry

Separate and Presoak Laundry
Follow the washing instructions that appear on the label of each garment. Separate laundry into batches, such as dark fabrics, shirts, towels, underwear, and rags. Launder clothing in the shape in which they are to be worn: zipped, velcroed, and buttoned up, with pockets empied and cuffs unrolled. Always presoak heavily soiled items and dinner napkins in an enzyme detergent either in the washer or in a basin; wash the following day. First, launder your batch of white fabrics. Wash white towels on the hottest setting with no bleach.

Detergents
There is a wide variety of laundry detergents from which to choose. Powdered detergents work best for hard water and for removing mud and clay. Liquid detergents are good for taking out grease, oily dirt, and stains, and work very well as a pretreatment. A good tip to follow is to buy laundry detergent in bulk and pour it into smaller bottles or airtight containers. Also, always wear household gloves and old clothes when you hand-wash items in bleach.

Color-fast Test
Martha suggests always checking for colorfastness on dark clothing before washing. To do a colorfast test, dampen fabric in a discreet spot and blot with a white cloth to see if any color appears. If color does appear, wash the item separately until it becomes colorfast.

Removing Oil Stains
Use cornstarch to help absorb oil stains. Sprinkle the stain with cornstarch, wait 10 to 15 minutes and scrape off.

Easier Ironing and Drying
For easier ironing, remove items from dryer while still damp. This will help prevent wrinkles from setting in. Clean the lint drawer before drying each load of laundry.

Washing Pillows
Most pillows should be washed every 3 to 6 months. Check tags to make sure the pillows are not "dry clean only" Wash them in the gentle cycle with warm water and mild detergent. Be sure to check the tag to see if you can dry the pillows in the dryer. When drying pillows, add tennis balls in a sock to the dryer, which will help break up clumps of filling. This tip also works well for down jackets and comforters.


Tips from Martha

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Bamboo Fabric

Just discovered Bamboo Fabric and found the following info from WiseGeek. Might consider it for my new bedsheet set ;)



"Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass. Bamboo fabric has been growing in popularity because it has many unique properties and is more sustainable than most textile fibers. Bamboo fabric is light and strong, has excellent wicking properties, and is to some extent antibacterial. The use of bamboo fiber for clothing was a 20th century development, pioneered by several Chinese corporations.


Bamboo fiber resembles cotton in its unspun form, a puffball of light, airy fibers. Many companies use extensive bleaching processes to turn bamboo fiber white, although companies producing organic bamboo fabric leave the bamboo fiber unbleached. To make bamboo fiber, bamboo is heavily pulped until it separates into thin component threads of fiber, which can be spun and dyed for weaving into cloth.


Bamboo fabric is very soft and can be worn directly next to the skin. Many people who experience allergic reactions to other natural fibers, such as wool or hemp, do not complain of this issue with bamboo. The fiber is naturally smooth and round without chemical treatment, meaning that there are no sharp spurs to irritate the skin.


Bamboo fabric is favored by companies trying to use sustainable textiles, because the bamboo plant is very quick growing and does not usually require the use of pesticides and herbicides to thrive. As a result, plantations can easily be kept organic and replanted yearly to replenish stocks. The process of making unbleached bamboo fiber is very light on chemicals that could potentially harm the environment.


In textile form, bamboo retains many of the properties it has as a plant. Bamboo is highly water absorbent, able to take up three times its weight in water. In bamboo fabric, this translates to an excellent wicking ability that will pull moisture away from the skin so that it can evaporate. For this reason, clothing made of bamboo fiber is often worn next to the skin.


Bamboo also has many antibacterial qualities, which bamboo fabric is apparently able to retain, even through multiple washings. This helps to reduce bacteria that thrive on clothing and cause unpleasant odors. It can also kill odor causing bacteria that live on human skin, making the wearer and his or her clothing smell more sweet. In addition, bamboo fabric has insulating properties and will keep the wearer cooler in summer and warmer in winter. The versatility of bamboo fabric makes it an excellent choice for clothing designers exploring alternative textiles, and in addition, the fabric is able to take bright dye colors well, drape smoothly, and star in a variety of roles from knit shirts to woven skirts. "




But Beware! Everything have it's Pros and Cons. Read the following which I had copied from Organic Yum-Yum.



" Fashion has taken a seriously green turn this year, with London Fashion Week kicking off the trend back in February and in April we in Ireland hosted our first ever Ethical Fashion Week.


Bamboo clothing is being heralded as the newest eco-fabric and at a recent trade show I was excited to finally see and feel this new cloth. It is beautiful, I was struck by how shiny it was, it's appearance and feel is closer to that of satin than it's eco-competitor organic cotton. It was also really light, a cloth nappy seemed to loose all it's bulkiness when made from bamboo. The lady at the stand told me that because of it's natural deodorising properties you could wear the socks for a week without washing them... although I'm not quite sure if I'm ready to test that yet!

The advantages of bamboo seem endless, it's naturally antibacterial and anti-fungal, it's durable, it grows quickly without the use of pesticides and it is completely sustainable. It would seem to be a miracle fabric, but as with all things there is a disadvantage. I had noticed that although bamboo is grown organically that none of the garments seemed to be labeled organic.

Looking into this further I discovered that hazardous chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide are used during the processing of the plant. These chemicals are extremely toxic and can cause severe health problems to the people working with them. For example carbon disulfide is known to:
and sodium hydroxide when inhaled can cause:

Even with all these health effects bamboo is still more environmentally friendly than many other materials. For example non organic cotton uses approximately 150g of pesticide per pound of raw cotton - enough to produce just one T shirt.

The good news is that there is an eco-friendly and organic way of producing bamboo cloth which allows natural the natural enzymes in the plant to break down the pulp. Although it is eco-friendly it is very labour intensive and as a result costly. New technologies are also being developed to help make the mass processing methods greener."


More info here :

http://bestecostuff.com/blog/is-bamboo-fabric-green

http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_471546_bamboo_sheet_set_reviews

Jean Perry Bedsheet Set defects at Takashimaya

DO NOT BUY any of JEAN PERRY Bedsheet Set at Takashimaya!

I just had a very bad experience there. Bought a high quality (Royal Premium, 500 Thread Count) bedsheet set at Takashimaya and at the time of purchase, I had enquired whether I can do exchange if any thread loose is found. The answer from the salesperson was a definite yes!

As to my dismay, I found more than 5 separate areas when the threads were either loose or not sewn properly.

Of course I send back to Taka for exchange. After a few days waitingf I finally got a new set, I checked the new bedsheet on the spot. Still I find some defects and feedback to see whether I can have another new one as this one is not acceptable to me.

By this time, the promoter got annoyed and doesn't allow for more exchange and then just wanted to refund me. I was reluctant to get a refund as I need a new bedsheet set urgently. She had told me that it is normal to find these kind of defects in her products.

Then I am willing to lower down my expectations and may be willing to accept the defective goods provided she allows me to check further through the rest of the bedsheet set, just in case there are really very severe defects that may cause the product unusable. Straightaway, she cut me short by not allowing me to check further and just wanted to refund me.

To cut long story short, I was very dissappointed with Jean Perry's promoter's attitude as first, the product quality is very bad, and secondly, the customer service is even worse. To think that I had even paid more than $150 for this whole shit!

I am wondering whether is the Jean Perry product quality is poor in general to start with? Definitely, I will shun Jean Perry in future bedlinen purchase !

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