Going to the Mattresses How to cut through the marketing gimmicks of Sealy, Serta, and the rest.
By Seth Stevenson
Posted Thursday, Nov. 23, 2000, at 2:30 AM ET
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Here's a fun game I play. First, I walk into a mattress store and ask what's on sale. Then, I throw my hands in the air and shout along with the salesman, "EVERYTHING'S ON SALE!!!!" Oh how we laugh, the salesman and I. And while he's still chuckling, I turn around and walk out, because I fricking hate mattress salesmen.
Is there a more maddening industry? They confuse us with silly product names (the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Fletcher Ultra Plush Pillowtop or the Sealy Posturepedic Crown Jewel Brookmere Plush?). They flummox us with bogus science ("pocketed coils"? "Microtek foundations"? "Fiberlux"?). And they weigh us down with useless features (silk damask ticking?). It's like buying a used car, and almost as expensive—I've seen mattresses going for $7,000. What's a consumer to do?
Click Here!
The secret to mattress shopping is that the product is basically a commodity. The mattress biz is 99-percent marketing. So just buy the cheapest thing you can stand and be done with it, because they're pretty much all the same. And that's all you need to know. But do read on—the world of sleep products is quite fascinating, and I'd like to share it with you.
What's the Best Brand?
Innerspring mattresses, particularly the Big S's (Simmons, Serta, Sealy), dominate the market. But how to choose among Serta and Sealy, Stearns and Foster, and King Koil? Or for that matter, between the Simmons Beautyrest Exceptionale Lenore and the Simmons Beautyrest Do-Not-Disturb Royalty Ultra?
Here's the lowdown: Mattress makers rename identical products for each different retail store. Different labels, exact same guts. Why? Obfuscation. It's hard to shop for the lowest price when you can't compare apples to apples. Lucky for you, they're all subtle variations on the same apple—not only within each brand, but even among different brands.
The heart of an innerspring mattress is the coils. Otherwise it's just foam, cotton, quilting, and stitches. But the big-name mattress makers (with some exceptions) all get their coils from a single company, Leggett and Platt, for their highest-end mattresses down to their lowest. This is akin to every single car on the market, Lamborghinis to Kias, using an engine made by Ford. Except that mattresses are far less complicated than cars. In fact, they're so simple that there's no real difference among them at all.
Upshot: Ignore brand names. They're meaningless. Just pay attention to comfort. Which leads us to our next question:
How Firm Should My Mattress Be?
Herein lies the central mattress paradox. You sleep on coils because they're softer than the floor, but you still want good, firm coils, but then you put foam padding on top to soften the coils, but you still want the foam to be dense, and then finally you put a strong box spring underneath for just a tiny bit of give. All this shuttling back and forth on the scale of firmness—why not just start with the firmness you like, and then stop? My favorite mattress name encapsulates the paradox: Simmons Beautyrest World Class Granite Plush. Granite Plush???
Let's break down each mattress feature that creates firmness, or softness, or both.
Coil Counts and Wire Guages: When I began, coil counts and wire guages seemed the key to everything. I talked to several bedding journalists who had desperately sought these numbers from the mattress makers, but had long failed to penetrate the shroud of secrecy. I figured these stats were the empirical measure: More and thicker coils mean fuller and better support. But I soon found it's not that simple. Some mattresses use more coils but thinner-gauge wire. Some use thicker wire but fewer coils. And everyone uses radically different configurations that make comparisons meaningless.
Larry Thomas of Furniture Today—a man described to me as "the guru of the bedding industry"—told me coil counts are "overrated" and "not a good indicator." Yes, if you pay more, you'll get a theoretically better coil design, but better enough to feel a difference? I sure couldn't. Not even between two mattresses thousands of dollars apart in price. So don't worry about the stats—worry about the comfort.
Pillowtops: Pillowtops are soft layers of foam (or cotton, or wool) sewn to the top of the mattress. They're hugely popular. They add hundreds of dollars to your purchase. They are, in my opinion, a massive rip-off. You can re-create their effect with a few cheap egg-crate foam pads. And why spend all that money on springs just to dampen their affect with a giant pillow? If you really want to sleep on foam or cotton, buy a foam or cotton mattress.
Thickness: A recent fad. Some Stearns and Foster (a brand owned by Sealy) mattresses I saw measured about 2 feet thick (and cost $5,000). It looked like they sewed a futon on top of an innerspring. Experts I talked to say thickness is just a ploy: It makes beds look comfy in the showroom. If you notice a difference, mazel tov, but thickness isn't vital to a good bed. You can achieve the same feel with less height (and weight—some mattresses weigh more than 200 pounds and are tough to carry up the stairs).
Mattresses have gotten so thick recently that people are complaining they can't see their headboards. Actual industry response: They made the box-springs thinner. Which of course leads us to ...
Box Springs: I find them wholly unnecessary. Think about it: Presumably, you could put a box spring under your box spring for even more "give" and "support." Another box spring under those two. Where do you draw the line? Also, remember that box springs add significantly to your cost. One reasonable argument I heard for them is that they save wear on your mattress, but I had no way to prove or disprove this.
Many Europeans use platform beds without box springs. Do you hear them complaining? I don't use a box spring, and I don't miss it. It's a princess/pea thing. If you need 17 layers, OK. If you only need one, don't buy a box spring, unless you don't like platforms and can't think of anything better to put your mattress on. My recommendation: Put your mattress on the floor—it saves money on nightstands. Give in to gravity!
Illustration by Nina Frenkel
Is a Firm Mattress Best for My Back?
I asked an orthopedic surgeon at something called the National Foundation for Spinal Health. He said a mattress should support you in the "position of function"—the normal curve of your spine when you're standing up. When a mattress flattens the curve (too firm), or exaggerates it (too soft), bingo: back pain. According to him, a supportive innerspring works better than foam, air, or water. The NFSH recommends: the Simmons Back Care mattress. Problem solved, let's go home, yes? No! I soon discovered the NFSH takes money from companies, including, especially, Simmons! Sketchy! Next orthopedic surgeon, please.
This second guy was independent and no longer practicing. He debunked the myth that firm mattresses are best. They are if you get acute back spasms, but for regular back pain your mattress doesn't make much difference. "The back is a complicated structure," he said. "Back pain has a lot to do with how you're built, but not a lot to do with your mattress." So you don't have to feel guilty about buying a soft, cushy mattress. It doesn't make a difference. (Regional trivia: Firm mattresses sell more in the Northeast [you penitent yankees, you!], while soft wins out in the South.)
Do I Need All Those Extra Features?
No. Screw 'em. For instance ...
Ticking and Quilting: People often buy based on how a mattress looks in the store. This is moronic. You're going to spread a sheet over it the second you get home. Belgian damask? Really, now.
No-Flip Designs: Manufacturers say to flip your mattress every three months. It's even in some warranties. Yet this year's Simmons Beautyrest 2000 boasts a "no flip" design. And it's selling like hotcakes (for which flipping, incidentally, remains compulsory). Why? People love work-saving innovations—we're too lazy to flip. But what does it really mean? It means there's block foam on one side instead of something you could sleep on. And it means if there's a stain or a rip on the sleeping side, you're SOL. They should have called it the "can't flip" design. It's like a "No Oil Change" car that's simply had the dipstick and cap soldered in place.
Warranties: Almost any problem from normal use (which is all the warranties cover) will happen in the first month or so. Ignore the 10- and 20-year coverage. Just make sure there's a solid, 30- or 60-day return policy. That's important not only if the mattress is defective, but if you plain don't like it upon further review.
What About Foam, Air, Water, and Latex?
These legendary "four elements" of classical mythology can also be mattresses. Viscoelastic "memory" foam is popular now. I tried the Tempurpedic brand and loved it—it melts to fit your form. But I wouldn't spend $1,500 for a mattress, no matter how Swedish it is.
Select Comfort air mattresses have sold big lately (though innerspring sales still dwarf everything else, owning more than 80 percent of the market). I didn't like the feeling of air, even though I could adjust the firmness with a remote-controlled pump. When you compress it with your weight, air doesn't seem to have as much give as foam. And it felt like I was camping. These start at $550 for a queen-size.
Waterbeds have hung around (still half of all specialty mattress sales), but I couldn't find one out on display to test. And they give me the yips a little.
Finally, an independent mattress manufacturer I talked to swore that latex makes the best mattresses. (Coincidentally, he makes latex mattresses.) I tried a latex bed, and it didn't feel very different from a firm innerspring, but that's me.
Futons?
Sure, why not? They're cheaper, partly because there's no box spring. But what is a futon these days, anyway? The definition has essentially devolved into "it bends." They even make innerspring futons, now. At the same time, real innerspring beds keep stacking on the foam and cotton, emulating futons of yore.
Conclusion
If you can't tell the difference between a $200 and a $900 mattress (I couldn't, but maybe you can), get the cheaper one. They're nearly the same, anyway. Anything over $1,500 and you're just paying for prestige, says Larry Thomas. There are tons of great mattress sets for low prices. Yes, to an extent, you get what you pay for (better coil design, denser foam, ritzier ticking), but don't go crazy over this stuff. Lie down on mattesses in the store and trust your own judgment. Remember: Once you're asleep, every mattress feels the same.
Reader Comments from The Fray:
[Notes from the Fray Editor: A special, once-every-four-years-if-then subset from the Fray: messages that combine politics and tips on buying mattresses. Two excellent ones showed the way here ("how nice to read an article not on the election, and by the way Mr Gore…") and here ("I'll be tossing and turning the next four years"). We also had a sneaking liking for this one: "Lincoln Bedroom mattress found stuffed with chads from past elections". And someone who said he had the perfect mattress only wanted to reveal its make to those who shared his political views.
George explains here how he made a bed very cheaply, though there seems some doubt whether he wants it to be comfortable ("I don't want this friend to stay more than two weeks, two weeks is more than enough.") He was one of several readers, including Clawhead below, who shared bed-buying stories and revealed in passing details of their lives. We were charmed.
We do not know if S.L. Brown's post falls into the life-details or politics category, or even the irony category. You decide. It was posted the day after Thanksgiving. Gordon W-K is from Australia and industrious Frayteam research revealed that a doona is an Aussie name for a duvet or comforter. His final sentence is undoubtedly the Fray question of the week.]
I found this article so interesting that I sent a copy of it to my friends and relatives. Maybe now they'll come up with better dinner conversation.
--S.L.Brown
(To reply, click here.)
My ad agency once pitched a big mattress retailer. We learned they had at least five prices for every mattress. Obviously, you can dicker your way to a better deal. Just keep at it. These guys make used car salesmen look like boy scouts.
--Rob
(To reply, click here.)
Seth Stevenson's right about ignoring mattress salesmen and listening instead to your back. The problem is, you can't really try out a mattress in three minutes. You need to give it at least a few nights. Also, I suspect Seth is under 40. Otherwise his back would be more particular. When I was 21, I spent nearly two weeks sleeping on a the rear seat of a Fiat (it was in a friend's living room, not in the Fiat). No complaints, then. Now I can't imagine doing that. At some point in my body's gradual deterioration, mattress quality starting becoming embarrassingly important. I've tried a lot of mattresses, but finally found a $200 mattress, made by a small-time manufacturer in North Carolina, that was far superior to a $800 name-brand mattress I had bought earlier.
--Clawhead
(To reply, click here.)
Bedding journalists? I mean really! I know there are a lot of journalists about, but are there really specialist "bedding journalists"? Who are these people anyway? Do they have annual conventions in big hotels? Do they microspecialise into (say) pillowslips or maybe frilly covers? Who edits the erudite journals of bedding criticism?
And their heroes, the Dorothy Parkers and W.H. Audens of bedding--who are they? Has the doona columnist for the NYT ever won a Pulitzer Prize? Ever had to issue a solemn retraction (fast U-turn between the sheets?). Ever been carpeted by the editor? (Whoops, sorry, that's Floor Coverings, try Harry on the third floor.)
Perhaps one could refer to a highly experienced bedding journalist, one who has been & seen it all, as "our hard-bitten pillow correspondent". Until of course he's put to work investigating stains on the presidential comforter; then he becomes "our man on the spot".
I guess the only real question to be asked is this: What possible journalistic crime could be so heinous, so unforgivable, so indescribably embarrassing to one's employer as to condemn one to a life of writing ensemble pieces covering the coverlets?
--Gordon W-K
Friday, July 11, 2008
Mattress : More than coil count, and other notes
More than coil count, and other notes
Apr 11 '01
The Bottom Line How firm? Pillow top? Coil comparisons? Warranties? Everything makes a difference.
The number of coils in an innerspring mattress plays a very large part in the support you receive. But other factors come into play, also, which the cutaway sample will help to show you.
How large are the coils? Are they about 2" in diameter (about standard), or larger? The NUMBER of coils will not be comparable if those coils are 3-4" in diameter.
How heavy a gauge of wire are the coils? A heavy gauge wire can give more support and/or durability than a thinner wire can.
How are the coils connected? Some mattresses have individually pocketed coils, which will give more individualized response when used. Coils that have the most weight on them may wear out quicker than the rest of the mattress coils, leaving a mushy spot. Some mattresses connect their coils with wires at various spacing, some in only one direction (across) and some both across the width and length of the mattress. More connection can give a more flat, level feel, distributing weight more evenly.
The edge wire is another factor, especially if you are an edge sleeper. Heavier is stronger, and gives the coil connecting wires a stronger base. This also helps support when you sit on the edge of the bed. Mattresses often have special supporting foam along the outside edge.
Notes on pillow tops:
They are lovely. They feel soft and comfy. They add price to your mattress. They also eventually will compress and develop 'ruts' with use, and are excluded from the warranty. You can get the same effect by using a simple 'waffle pad' or 'egg crate' pad, or a 'featherbed' type mattress pad. Then, should they wear out or become soiled, they can easily be replaced.
How firm should I get?
Most people with back problems are recommended to use the firmest they can buy. If you don't know for sure, or only one of you likes a firm (very firm, extra firm, rock hard) mattress, get the firmest you desire and then use the 'featherbed' or 'egg crate' type mattress pads (or both) to add softness. If possible, of course, try out the mattress first - but allow at least 1-2 weeks to evaluate it, since your body may take a little adjusting to it.
Many of us use a minimal rule of thumb when testing mattresses, by placing a knee on the mattress and leaning into it to test the firmness. Trust what you feel, not just the label.
How about warranties? Like most things, the warranties often only cover manufacturer's defects, and not the longevity of the mattress. How many years replacement, and how many years prorated? Also, many warranties require that you send the mattress back to them for their inspection. I can't even begin to think how to ship a King size mattress. And stores go out of business or move, and often are no help when they are still there.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
Apr 11 '01
The Bottom Line How firm? Pillow top? Coil comparisons? Warranties? Everything makes a difference.
The number of coils in an innerspring mattress plays a very large part in the support you receive. But other factors come into play, also, which the cutaway sample will help to show you.
How large are the coils? Are they about 2" in diameter (about standard), or larger? The NUMBER of coils will not be comparable if those coils are 3-4" in diameter.
How heavy a gauge of wire are the coils? A heavy gauge wire can give more support and/or durability than a thinner wire can.
How are the coils connected? Some mattresses have individually pocketed coils, which will give more individualized response when used. Coils that have the most weight on them may wear out quicker than the rest of the mattress coils, leaving a mushy spot. Some mattresses connect their coils with wires at various spacing, some in only one direction (across) and some both across the width and length of the mattress. More connection can give a more flat, level feel, distributing weight more evenly.
The edge wire is another factor, especially if you are an edge sleeper. Heavier is stronger, and gives the coil connecting wires a stronger base. This also helps support when you sit on the edge of the bed. Mattresses often have special supporting foam along the outside edge.
Notes on pillow tops:
They are lovely. They feel soft and comfy. They add price to your mattress. They also eventually will compress and develop 'ruts' with use, and are excluded from the warranty. You can get the same effect by using a simple 'waffle pad' or 'egg crate' pad, or a 'featherbed' type mattress pad. Then, should they wear out or become soiled, they can easily be replaced.
How firm should I get?
Most people with back problems are recommended to use the firmest they can buy. If you don't know for sure, or only one of you likes a firm (very firm, extra firm, rock hard) mattress, get the firmest you desire and then use the 'featherbed' or 'egg crate' type mattress pads (or both) to add softness. If possible, of course, try out the mattress first - but allow at least 1-2 weeks to evaluate it, since your body may take a little adjusting to it.
Many of us use a minimal rule of thumb when testing mattresses, by placing a knee on the mattress and leaning into it to test the firmness. Trust what you feel, not just the label.
How about warranties? Like most things, the warranties often only cover manufacturer's defects, and not the longevity of the mattress. How many years replacement, and how many years prorated? Also, many warranties require that you send the mattress back to them for their inspection. I can't even begin to think how to ship a King size mattress. And stores go out of business or move, and often are no help when they are still there.
Good luck, and happy hunting.
Mattress : It's What's On the Inside That Counts
It's What's On the Inside That Counts
Mar 16 '01
The Bottom Line Understand coil count and coil strength. Don't blindly trust brand names!
Buying a mattress has to be one of the hardest things you can do as a consumer. You watch slick t.v. adds with counting sheep and associate a brand name with a quality mattress. As a furniture retailer, however, I have found that much of the time what you're really paying for is for that name, rather than a true quality mattress.
One of the most important factors in buying a mattresses is learning the coil count and relative strength of those coils (how thick a gauge steel those coils are). If you go into a mattress store (most exclusive bedding stores are owned by the manufacturers themselves these days--which is why they can guarantee the lowest price on their particular brand of mattresses), a non-brand mattress of equal quality is going to run you probably HALF as much (at least on what I sell).
A "basic" mattress is going to be considered a "312 coil" unit. This works perfect for children, guest bedrooms, and anyone on a fixed income or tight budget. The bigger units run between 500-700 coils. The more coils, the better support your back is going to get, and the less strain each individual coil is going to receive--meaning longer life. Spring Air makes a mattress with 1000 coils, right now the highest coil count mattress you can buy.
Pay attention to whether you're getting a "foundation" or a "box spring." A foundation is nothing more than a wooden frame the mattress sits on--its sole function to set the mattress up to a decent height. A box spring is a wooden frame with actual coils in it--that gives a little when you put weight on it. You can quickly tell the difference between a foundation and a box spring by slipping your foot in between the mattress and the box and stepping down a bit. If it gives, you've got a box spring, if it doesn't you've got a foundation. The jury really is still out on what is better. The higher priced mattresses are going to be built with their box springs in mind--and you probably won't have a choice. In all reality, it's not going to make that much of a difference in the long haul and will probably save you a few bucks if you're budget minded.
I laughed when I saw epinions trying to rate mattresses. The manufacturers have SO MANY models within the particular names (like Spring Air's Back Supporters and Four Seasons) that someone with a 312 coil "Back Supporter" may be giving that mattress horrible reviews, while someone with a higher end unit giving it rave reviews. When shopping, disreguard tags and names. The big names make great higher end mattresses, and that will give you a starting point. The key is to lay on the mattresses-being blind to the names or the tags and make a decision based upon how it feels to you.
A word on "Pillowtop" mattresses. They are great. They are comfortable. On mid-priced models, they amount to nothing more than eggcrate foam sown into the cover (which you can buy at Wal-mart). The higher end models do offer more comfort and support than you could imitate, however. So pay attention. Look for a cutaway, showing you what your mattress looks on the inside.
Though slightly off topic I thought I'd throw this in. On warranties, make sure your salesperson knows about the warranty for your mattress and goes over it with you BEFORE you buy it. Ask about the return policy if you get it home and it doesn't work out.
With all this in mind, go out and HAVE FUN trying out mattresses. Like anything, a mattress is an investment in your quality of life. Buy a cheap mattress and you may save a few dollars now, but it is going to wear out sooner than later, and you're going to pay for it every night when your back starts hurting. If you buy a nice enough mattress you won't have to think about replacing it for quite some time, and you will enjoy every night on it.
Mar 16 '01
The Bottom Line Understand coil count and coil strength. Don't blindly trust brand names!
Buying a mattress has to be one of the hardest things you can do as a consumer. You watch slick t.v. adds with counting sheep and associate a brand name with a quality mattress. As a furniture retailer, however, I have found that much of the time what you're really paying for is for that name, rather than a true quality mattress.
One of the most important factors in buying a mattresses is learning the coil count and relative strength of those coils (how thick a gauge steel those coils are). If you go into a mattress store (most exclusive bedding stores are owned by the manufacturers themselves these days--which is why they can guarantee the lowest price on their particular brand of mattresses), a non-brand mattress of equal quality is going to run you probably HALF as much (at least on what I sell).
A "basic" mattress is going to be considered a "312 coil" unit. This works perfect for children, guest bedrooms, and anyone on a fixed income or tight budget. The bigger units run between 500-700 coils. The more coils, the better support your back is going to get, and the less strain each individual coil is going to receive--meaning longer life. Spring Air makes a mattress with 1000 coils, right now the highest coil count mattress you can buy.
Pay attention to whether you're getting a "foundation" or a "box spring." A foundation is nothing more than a wooden frame the mattress sits on--its sole function to set the mattress up to a decent height. A box spring is a wooden frame with actual coils in it--that gives a little when you put weight on it. You can quickly tell the difference between a foundation and a box spring by slipping your foot in between the mattress and the box and stepping down a bit. If it gives, you've got a box spring, if it doesn't you've got a foundation. The jury really is still out on what is better. The higher priced mattresses are going to be built with their box springs in mind--and you probably won't have a choice. In all reality, it's not going to make that much of a difference in the long haul and will probably save you a few bucks if you're budget minded.
I laughed when I saw epinions trying to rate mattresses. The manufacturers have SO MANY models within the particular names (like Spring Air's Back Supporters and Four Seasons) that someone with a 312 coil "Back Supporter" may be giving that mattress horrible reviews, while someone with a higher end unit giving it rave reviews. When shopping, disreguard tags and names. The big names make great higher end mattresses, and that will give you a starting point. The key is to lay on the mattresses-being blind to the names or the tags and make a decision based upon how it feels to you.
A word on "Pillowtop" mattresses. They are great. They are comfortable. On mid-priced models, they amount to nothing more than eggcrate foam sown into the cover (which you can buy at Wal-mart). The higher end models do offer more comfort and support than you could imitate, however. So pay attention. Look for a cutaway, showing you what your mattress looks on the inside.
Though slightly off topic I thought I'd throw this in. On warranties, make sure your salesperson knows about the warranty for your mattress and goes over it with you BEFORE you buy it. Ask about the return policy if you get it home and it doesn't work out.
With all this in mind, go out and HAVE FUN trying out mattresses. Like anything, a mattress is an investment in your quality of life. Buy a cheap mattress and you may save a few dollars now, but it is going to wear out sooner than later, and you're going to pay for it every night when your back starts hurting. If you buy a nice enough mattress you won't have to think about replacing it for quite some time, and you will enjoy every night on it.
To Buy List
necessities will be
1. washing machine (and dryer for some)
2. tv
3. fridge
4. stove (gas or electric, hood for some)
5. a HTS (only dvd player or dvd player with speakers or dvd player and 5.1 system)
6. water heater (instant or storage, gas or electric)
optional
7. electric kettle
8. microwave
9. oven
10. rice cooker
11. air-con or fan
fittings (assuming you not change original fittings)
1. kitchen sink
2. kitchen tap
3. lights
4. mirrors for bathrooms
5. bathroom accessories
furnishings
1. bedframe and mattress
2. sofa (with coffee / side table
3. bookcase
4. wardrobe (off the shelf or customised)
5. study table
6. dining set
7. tv console
8. shoe cabinet
9. dresser
10. misc stuff (display console / cabinet, stools, foldable chairs, MJ table, study chair etc)
misc
1. home telephone (if you are installing)
2. clothes hangers
3. cutlery / knifes / plates & bowls
4. mop / broom / pails
5. bamboo / aluminium pole for hanging clothes
1. washing machine (and dryer for some)
2. tv
3. fridge
4. stove (gas or electric, hood for some)
5. a HTS (only dvd player or dvd player with speakers or dvd player and 5.1 system)
6. water heater (instant or storage, gas or electric)
optional
7. electric kettle
8. microwave
9. oven
10. rice cooker
11. air-con or fan
fittings (assuming you not change original fittings)
1. kitchen sink
2. kitchen tap
3. lights
4. mirrors for bathrooms
5. bathroom accessories
furnishings
1. bedframe and mattress
2. sofa (with coffee / side table
3. bookcase
4. wardrobe (off the shelf or customised)
5. study table
6. dining set
7. tv console
8. shoe cabinet
9. dresser
10. misc stuff (display console / cabinet, stools, foldable chairs, MJ table, study chair etc)
misc
1. home telephone (if you are installing)
2. clothes hangers
3. cutlery / knifes / plates & bowls
4. mop / broom / pails
5. bamboo / aluminium pole for hanging clothes
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Selecting A Renovation Contractor
Selecting A Renovation Contractor
Author: Isabel Ng | Editor: Angelana
Fail to Plan, Plan to Fail
Renovation planning is the key factor to a successful renovation project. During planning, identify the constraints and challenges you forsee you will face in the renovation process. For e.g. If you need to meet a specified target completion date, identify it as a constraint, come up with a schedule way before getting the keys to your home and start on the contractor selection process. Hiring a good contractor also requires some effort and here are some of the tips to help you along the way.
1) Set a realistic budget
Everyone dreams to live in a palace but not every dream comes true. Keeping it simple can be a dream comes true too. Check what needs to go and which to stay. Spent within your means, DIY if you can.
2) Fengshui or not?
If you have the intention to get a FSM, do it right from the start and not later. Get the positions, color scheme, and dates ready to check feasibility for your renovation contractor before your sign on the dotted line in the contract.
3) Finding the right companies to quote.
Avoid running into situations asking for a quote only to find out later they are not a licensed contractor. If you are looking for a mark of assurance, go for RADAC certified and CaseTrust accredited companies. Gather for more information through reviews, forums and HDB website and shortlist at least 3 potential contractor for your selection.
4) Comparing Quotes
In order to compare apple to apple, provide consistent requirements to all of your shortlisted contractors/ID firms. When comparing the quotations, have an eye for proposed works on top of your requirements given. Consult with them further and prioritize what is necessary for you. For example in a HDB new flat, if it comes with concealed pipe, it is not necessary to redo. Also remember to ask on whether the tiles are based on a fixed price and how much it is capped at.
5) Ask
Don’t be shy to ask - something along the line “How long you have been in this industry?” How is their portfolio, past projects, license, reference, insurance.
Use them to check your contractor's work history, reliability, workmanship, service and ability to stay on budget and schedule. An experience contractor of more than 5 years is a sign of reliable and stable business. Check about their insurance if any, should there be an accident happen in your property during execution of work.
5) Agreement on dates
Set a start date, a plan of actions to be taken, Gantt chart and a target completion date.
6) Signing the contract
Check for details, hidden costs, liabilities and set a reasonable time frame to achieve completion. Never pay full upfront. It is reasonable to agree to pay in stages for each completed phase. Check and request for a warranty period and pay full upon satisfactory completion of the renovation.
Renovation is often linked with Time, Quality and Cost; more of one affects the others. A quality renovation will normally result in longer time, higher cost. So decide what matters most to you. In the time-cost-quality triangle, something has got to give. With some proper planning, it will save you a great deal of hassle to dispute with your contractor later and unnecessary costs.
Author: Isabel Ng | Editor: Angelana
Fail to Plan, Plan to Fail
Renovation planning is the key factor to a successful renovation project. During planning, identify the constraints and challenges you forsee you will face in the renovation process. For e.g. If you need to meet a specified target completion date, identify it as a constraint, come up with a schedule way before getting the keys to your home and start on the contractor selection process. Hiring a good contractor also requires some effort and here are some of the tips to help you along the way.
1) Set a realistic budget
Everyone dreams to live in a palace but not every dream comes true. Keeping it simple can be a dream comes true too. Check what needs to go and which to stay. Spent within your means, DIY if you can.
2) Fengshui or not?
If you have the intention to get a FSM, do it right from the start and not later. Get the positions, color scheme, and dates ready to check feasibility for your renovation contractor before your sign on the dotted line in the contract.
3) Finding the right companies to quote.
Avoid running into situations asking for a quote only to find out later they are not a licensed contractor. If you are looking for a mark of assurance, go for RADAC certified and CaseTrust accredited companies. Gather for more information through reviews, forums and HDB website and shortlist at least 3 potential contractor for your selection.
4) Comparing Quotes
In order to compare apple to apple, provide consistent requirements to all of your shortlisted contractors/ID firms. When comparing the quotations, have an eye for proposed works on top of your requirements given. Consult with them further and prioritize what is necessary for you. For example in a HDB new flat, if it comes with concealed pipe, it is not necessary to redo. Also remember to ask on whether the tiles are based on a fixed price and how much it is capped at.
5) Ask
Don’t be shy to ask - something along the line “How long you have been in this industry?” How is their portfolio, past projects, license, reference, insurance.
Use them to check your contractor's work history, reliability, workmanship, service and ability to stay on budget and schedule. An experience contractor of more than 5 years is a sign of reliable and stable business. Check about their insurance if any, should there be an accident happen in your property during execution of work.
5) Agreement on dates
Set a start date, a plan of actions to be taken, Gantt chart and a target completion date.
6) Signing the contract
Check for details, hidden costs, liabilities and set a reasonable time frame to achieve completion. Never pay full upfront. It is reasonable to agree to pay in stages for each completed phase. Check and request for a warranty period and pay full upon satisfactory completion of the renovation.
Renovation is often linked with Time, Quality and Cost; more of one affects the others. A quality renovation will normally result in longer time, higher cost. So decide what matters most to you. In the time-cost-quality triangle, something has got to give. With some proper planning, it will save you a great deal of hassle to dispute with your contractor later and unnecessary costs.
Baby Proof Your House
Easy And Effective Ways To Baby Proof Your House
Author: Sarika Kabra
A baby is the most precious addition to a home. Nothing compares to this beautiful bundle of joy. But you have to be careful about how you arrange your house before you bring your baby home. With a baby, even the things you thought were safest can become hazardous. You have to baby proof your house in order to prevent any unforeseen accidents. This article shows you how to do so in a few easy steps.
The most important point while baby proofing the house is to use common sense. Use your instinct to guide you in the checking of every furniture piece and other items in your house. You may have to throw out certain items temporarily and buy new ones from furniture stores for safety purposes. The best way to do that is to see the world from the point of view of a baby. You have to get down on your fours and check through the house. What could be harmful for your tiny tot? Is that plug point dangerously low? Can the sharp corners of the bedroom furniture set hit him? Are your flower vases fragile enough for an active child? Most baby furniture is made extremely safe for children with no sharp edges.
You must remove anything that is important to you and is capable of being broken by a baby. Also, secure every closet and cupboard with a child proof lock. No matter, how well you close every cabinet; make sure that none of the really sharp or dangerous items are at the lower level cabinets. Knives, cleaning agents, medicines and more such hazardous items must be placed on the high cabinets that are far above the reach of kids. The lower cabinets can have safe and light empty plastic containers and other things like that.
Make sure your burners and hot water heaters are beyond the reach of children and also turned down to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Any area which could cause possible burns must be well protected. A curious baby could burn himself in no time and so make sure that your dining table does not have table covers that can be pulled down by a child. This might lead to the hot food kept on it to fall on the baby. Also, cover all electric sockets. You can buy the child proof cover plates that are easily available in any children's shop.
If your living room furniture has sharp edges, cover them with quilts or foam rubber. Children easily hurt themselves by banging their heads on the sharp points. Also, make sure that all the doors have latches so that your baby doesn't wander off to areas he should not go. Remove any parts of furniture or decorative items that are small enough to pose choking hazards. Keep your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors switched on always.
If you are still unsure of whether your house is safe enough for a baby, hire a professional. There are specially trained "baby-proofers" who can check every corner of your house and install everything needed to keep your baby safe.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBlast.com
Author: Sarika Kabra
A baby is the most precious addition to a home. Nothing compares to this beautiful bundle of joy. But you have to be careful about how you arrange your house before you bring your baby home. With a baby, even the things you thought were safest can become hazardous. You have to baby proof your house in order to prevent any unforeseen accidents. This article shows you how to do so in a few easy steps.
The most important point while baby proofing the house is to use common sense. Use your instinct to guide you in the checking of every furniture piece and other items in your house. You may have to throw out certain items temporarily and buy new ones from furniture stores for safety purposes. The best way to do that is to see the world from the point of view of a baby. You have to get down on your fours and check through the house. What could be harmful for your tiny tot? Is that plug point dangerously low? Can the sharp corners of the bedroom furniture set hit him? Are your flower vases fragile enough for an active child? Most baby furniture is made extremely safe for children with no sharp edges.
You must remove anything that is important to you and is capable of being broken by a baby. Also, secure every closet and cupboard with a child proof lock. No matter, how well you close every cabinet; make sure that none of the really sharp or dangerous items are at the lower level cabinets. Knives, cleaning agents, medicines and more such hazardous items must be placed on the high cabinets that are far above the reach of kids. The lower cabinets can have safe and light empty plastic containers and other things like that.
Make sure your burners and hot water heaters are beyond the reach of children and also turned down to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Any area which could cause possible burns must be well protected. A curious baby could burn himself in no time and so make sure that your dining table does not have table covers that can be pulled down by a child. This might lead to the hot food kept on it to fall on the baby. Also, cover all electric sockets. You can buy the child proof cover plates that are easily available in any children's shop.
If your living room furniture has sharp edges, cover them with quilts or foam rubber. Children easily hurt themselves by banging their heads on the sharp points. Also, make sure that all the doors have latches so that your baby doesn't wander off to areas he should not go. Remove any parts of furniture or decorative items that are small enough to pose choking hazards. Keep your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors switched on always.
If you are still unsure of whether your house is safe enough for a baby, hire a professional. There are specially trained "baby-proofers" who can check every corner of your house and install everything needed to keep your baby safe.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBlast.com
Furniture : Website
Accents on Accents - http://www.accents.com.sg
Air Division - http://www.airdivision.net/
B&B (in UK) - http://www.bebitalia.it/beb/home/home_uk.asp
Barang Barang - http://www.barang.com.sg
Cellini - http://www.cellini.com.sg/
City Furniture - http://www.cityfurniture.com.sg/
Eurosa - http://www.eurosafurniture.com/
HTL International - http://www.htlinternational.com/
Ikea - http://www.ikea.com.sg/
KODA Ltd - http://www.kodaonline.com/
Manhattan Loft (Overseas) - http://www.manhattanloft.com/
Massimo Sofas - http://massimmo.com/
OM Sofa - http://www.om-home.com/OM.htm
Piece of Mine - http://www.pieceofmine.com.sg/en/home/
Picket & Rail - http://www.picketandrail.com/
Scanteak - http://www.scanteak.com.sg/main.html
Star Furniture Group - http://www.starfurn.com/main.aspx
The Furniture Mall - http://www.tfm.com.sg
The Home Merchant - http://www.thehomemerchant.com/index.html
The Shophouse - http://www.theshophouse.com/
Urban Foundry - http://www.urban-foundry.com/
V.Hive - http://www.v.hive.com.sg
Air Division - http://www.airdivision.net/
B&B (in UK) - http://www.bebitalia.it/beb/home/home_uk.asp
Barang Barang - http://www.barang.com.sg
Cellini - http://www.cellini.com.sg/
City Furniture - http://www.cityfurniture.com.sg/
Eurosa - http://www.eurosafurniture.com/
HTL International - http://www.htlinternational.com/
Ikea - http://www.ikea.com.sg/
KODA Ltd - http://www.kodaonline.com/
Manhattan Loft (Overseas) - http://www.manhattanloft.com/
Massimo Sofas - http://massimmo.com/
OM Sofa - http://www.om-home.com/OM.htm
Piece of Mine - http://www.pieceofmine.com.sg/en/home/
Picket & Rail - http://www.picketandrail.com/
Scanteak - http://www.scanteak.com.sg/main.html
Star Furniture Group - http://www.starfurn.com/main.aspx
The Furniture Mall - http://www.tfm.com.sg
The Home Merchant - http://www.thehomemerchant.com/index.html
The Shophouse - http://www.theshophouse.com/
Urban Foundry - http://www.urban-foundry.com/
V.Hive - http://www.v.hive.com.sg
Mattress : Advise from ex-salesman
rom an ex-mattress salesperson
Nov 26 '00
Once upon a time I sold mattresses. All the major brands - Simmons, Serta, Sealy, etc. The brand is not important. I am not going to discuss brands, but tell you how to buy a mattress in the real world.
All of the major companies make a decent mattress. They each claim to have some sort of system that makes theirs a better mattress, but they all make a decent mattress.
To start, even before I explain how to choose a mattress, I should tell you that the system is designed to confuse you. Most of the major brands have a system wherein they change the names of the SAME mattress at each different chain store so that you can not price shop. What is the Simmons "Royale" at Macy's will be the "Regency" at Penny's. You can not price shop by name or color of the cover. You can only price shop by specifications. If the "specs" of one Simmons mattress is that it has a wool cover and a certain number of coils, then that is all that you can use to comparison shop.
Now, as a mattress salesperson for almost 10 years, I could never keep track of this coil count stuff and I don't expect you to, either.
Each company makes certain "levels" of mattresses. There is the cheapo, the decent cheapo, the good one and the better one. With each company, they usually have 2 tiers. With Simmons, the "top line" is the Beauty Rest. With Serta, it is the Perfect Sleeper, for instance.
Well, who cares? Here's the deal: with mattresses, you get what you pay for. A cheapo mattress is about 10% material - foam, steel, padding, whatever and about 90% air. A middle of the line mattress is about 40% material and 60% air. And so on.
Go in the mattress store and start lifting up the corners. Some are heavy, some are light. Now look at the price tags. Surprise!
Weight in a mattress is directly proportional to how well it will hold up in the long run. Weight ON the mattress is also proportional to how long it will hold up. When I slept alone and weighed a 100 pounds, I could not wear out a cheapo mattress.
Buy a cheapo, lightweight mattress for the guest room, if it is not often used. Buy it if you are a student and going to throw it out in a year or two. But, if you are heavy and have a heavy spouse, you head right over to the heaviest, most solid mattresses in the place.
But don't buy a pillowtop. I shock everyone by saying this. A pillowtop mattress is a normal mattress with a layer of extra padding on top. It will wear out and flatten down, long before the actual mattress will begin to show a dent. But it is sewn on! And you pay an extra hundred bucks for it! Buy a mattress pad instead. Pay 40 bucks and throw it away when it mashes down. And get another one. Cheaper than a new mattress.
Now, for the rest of it. Lie down on the mattress in the store. Roll around. If you sleep on your side, lie on your side. Hang out for awhile on it. Now lie on your back. Place your hand under the curve of your back. There should not be a space. The mattress should be conforming to the curve of your back. Very hard mattresses will not and there will be this big gaping space between your back and the surface.
You will toss and turn all night. A too hard mattress will cause you to lose circulation in parts of your body and your sleep will be broken due to your turning to alleiviate this. Each company makes an outrageously hard mattress, but even the companies themselves tell the salespeople to discourage the sale of these to anyone over 60 or with circulation problems. But there are those who feel that they can't sleep on anything else. So, don't blame me if you are always tired.
Determine what level of mattress you need. Do you need the one that will hold up for 10 years? Are you heavy? Is this for your 60 pound child? Are you going to get married one of these days and dump the twin-sized?
This gives you your price range.
Now go try a few. Some you can reject immediately, the too expensive, the pillowtops or the ones too obviously hard or soft. This will give you 4 or 5 to truly test. Spend an hour on them. One or two will feel right.
Then you can go ask about coil counts or warranties, if you must. But, trust me, you can always tell by the weight of the mattress.
Nov 26 '00
Once upon a time I sold mattresses. All the major brands - Simmons, Serta, Sealy, etc. The brand is not important. I am not going to discuss brands, but tell you how to buy a mattress in the real world.
All of the major companies make a decent mattress. They each claim to have some sort of system that makes theirs a better mattress, but they all make a decent mattress.
To start, even before I explain how to choose a mattress, I should tell you that the system is designed to confuse you. Most of the major brands have a system wherein they change the names of the SAME mattress at each different chain store so that you can not price shop. What is the Simmons "Royale" at Macy's will be the "Regency" at Penny's. You can not price shop by name or color of the cover. You can only price shop by specifications. If the "specs" of one Simmons mattress is that it has a wool cover and a certain number of coils, then that is all that you can use to comparison shop.
Now, as a mattress salesperson for almost 10 years, I could never keep track of this coil count stuff and I don't expect you to, either.
Each company makes certain "levels" of mattresses. There is the cheapo, the decent cheapo, the good one and the better one. With each company, they usually have 2 tiers. With Simmons, the "top line" is the Beauty Rest. With Serta, it is the Perfect Sleeper, for instance.
Well, who cares? Here's the deal: with mattresses, you get what you pay for. A cheapo mattress is about 10% material - foam, steel, padding, whatever and about 90% air. A middle of the line mattress is about 40% material and 60% air. And so on.
Go in the mattress store and start lifting up the corners. Some are heavy, some are light. Now look at the price tags. Surprise!
Weight in a mattress is directly proportional to how well it will hold up in the long run. Weight ON the mattress is also proportional to how long it will hold up. When I slept alone and weighed a 100 pounds, I could not wear out a cheapo mattress.
Buy a cheapo, lightweight mattress for the guest room, if it is not often used. Buy it if you are a student and going to throw it out in a year or two. But, if you are heavy and have a heavy spouse, you head right over to the heaviest, most solid mattresses in the place.
But don't buy a pillowtop. I shock everyone by saying this. A pillowtop mattress is a normal mattress with a layer of extra padding on top. It will wear out and flatten down, long before the actual mattress will begin to show a dent. But it is sewn on! And you pay an extra hundred bucks for it! Buy a mattress pad instead. Pay 40 bucks and throw it away when it mashes down. And get another one. Cheaper than a new mattress.
Now, for the rest of it. Lie down on the mattress in the store. Roll around. If you sleep on your side, lie on your side. Hang out for awhile on it. Now lie on your back. Place your hand under the curve of your back. There should not be a space. The mattress should be conforming to the curve of your back. Very hard mattresses will not and there will be this big gaping space between your back and the surface.
You will toss and turn all night. A too hard mattress will cause you to lose circulation in parts of your body and your sleep will be broken due to your turning to alleiviate this. Each company makes an outrageously hard mattress, but even the companies themselves tell the salespeople to discourage the sale of these to anyone over 60 or with circulation problems. But there are those who feel that they can't sleep on anything else. So, don't blame me if you are always tired.
Determine what level of mattress you need. Do you need the one that will hold up for 10 years? Are you heavy? Is this for your 60 pound child? Are you going to get married one of these days and dump the twin-sized?
This gives you your price range.
Now go try a few. Some you can reject immediately, the too expensive, the pillowtops or the ones too obviously hard or soft. This will give you 4 or 5 to truly test. Spend an hour on them. One or two will feel right.
Then you can go ask about coil counts or warranties, if you must. But, trust me, you can always tell by the weight of the mattress.
Mattress : Things to check
Pocketed Spring :
a) 'coil count' (no. of springs in the mattress)
b) 'coil gauge' (thickness of the springs inside)
A good-quality full-sized mattress has a wire gauge of between 12.75 (more firm) and 15 (less firm).
Waterbed :
Beginning while I first sleep on my waterbed. I had a sound sleep everynite. But after 5mths of sleeping on my waterbed. I starts to feel ache on my back and neck everyday when I wake up.
a) 'coil count' (no. of springs in the mattress)
b) 'coil gauge' (thickness of the springs inside)
A good-quality full-sized mattress has a wire gauge of between 12.75 (more firm) and 15 (less firm).
Waterbed :
Beginning while I first sleep on my waterbed. I had a sound sleep everynite. But after 5mths of sleeping on my waterbed. I starts to feel ache on my back and neck everyday when I wake up.
Mattress
There are tons of threads on mattresses in this forum. Do a quick search and you can read about everyone's comments and opinions. I have since learnt that really, it depends on personal choice. As long as you feel that it's comfortable, go ahead and buy it. Also, think LONG TERM. You will be using that mattress for probably at least 10 years. Don't just buy the cheapest one (nor the most expensive one!). Spend a bit of time doing research and go try as many mattresses as you can. Then, narrow down to top 3 or 2 based on your budget and comfort level. In this way, you won't get confused because there are A LOT of mattresses out there.
I did lots of research and finally, decided on a Dunlopillo. Bought it at Furniture Mall's Dunlopillo Suite. A word of advise is: Go and check out the actual suppliers rather than the retail shops. They are usually able to throw in more freebies/give a better discount because they don't need to pay middleman prices. As such, even when Robinsons/Isetan gives XX% discount during sale, it'd probably still can't beat the prices at the suppliers themselves.
Listen to the sales people but do not believe EVERYTHING they say. Learn about the advantages and disadvantages and then make a note if those advantages are important to you. There are a lot of "frills" that come with mattresses these days so don't buy into it! Of course, sales people are going to tell you that THEIR mattress is THE BEST. You have to make the final decision smile.gif
Also, some of the suppliers' showroom have showroom-only pieces that are not sold at the retail shops.
One last point: Don't "buy" into all the marketing. Ultimately, remember that the more they spend on marketing, it just pushes up the price of the mattress you are paying. I am always surprised when I read of homeowners buying the Serta mattress - quote - because the sheep is very cute! - unquote. Oh dear, please buy a mattress because it FITS you. Not because of the sheep! Can go to any toy shop to get a toy sheep, really.
Just sharing my personal experience. Hope this is useful for anyone shopping for mattress! I am just so glad I can finally stop my research on mattresses because it was tiring. Hehe.
PS. One more thing - Don't buy a mattress because you like how it looks. Remember that you will be putting a pretty bedsheet over it!!!
Reasons of choosing:
-The 1000 threads count mattress material which gives a cooling feel even with bed sheets on. (considering for our climate turning hotter).
- WE choose more firm mattress because of long term support (good for spinal support) especailly we going to sleep it more than 10 yrs.
SOb sob.. have to forgoe the comfy feel of all those hotel used mattress ie. s##ly.... (hotel used usally we only sleep for 1to2 weeks, so wouldnt affect our spinal but for long term is other wise...)
I did lots of research and finally, decided on a Dunlopillo. Bought it at Furniture Mall's Dunlopillo Suite. A word of advise is: Go and check out the actual suppliers rather than the retail shops. They are usually able to throw in more freebies/give a better discount because they don't need to pay middleman prices. As such, even when Robinsons/Isetan gives XX% discount during sale, it'd probably still can't beat the prices at the suppliers themselves.
Listen to the sales people but do not believe EVERYTHING they say. Learn about the advantages and disadvantages and then make a note if those advantages are important to you. There are a lot of "frills" that come with mattresses these days so don't buy into it! Of course, sales people are going to tell you that THEIR mattress is THE BEST. You have to make the final decision smile.gif
Also, some of the suppliers' showroom have showroom-only pieces that are not sold at the retail shops.
One last point: Don't "buy" into all the marketing. Ultimately, remember that the more they spend on marketing, it just pushes up the price of the mattress you are paying. I am always surprised when I read of homeowners buying the Serta mattress - quote - because the sheep is very cute! - unquote. Oh dear, please buy a mattress because it FITS you. Not because of the sheep! Can go to any toy shop to get a toy sheep, really.
Just sharing my personal experience. Hope this is useful for anyone shopping for mattress! I am just so glad I can finally stop my research on mattresses because it was tiring. Hehe.
PS. One more thing - Don't buy a mattress because you like how it looks. Remember that you will be putting a pretty bedsheet over it!!!
Reasons of choosing:
-The 1000 threads count mattress material which gives a cooling feel even with bed sheets on. (considering for our climate turning hotter).
- WE choose more firm mattress because of long term support (good for spinal support) especailly we going to sleep it more than 10 yrs.
SOb sob.. have to forgoe the comfy feel of all those hotel used mattress ie. s##ly.... (hotel used usally we only sleep for 1to2 weeks, so wouldnt affect our spinal but for long term is other wise...)
Mattress : Recommended Brands
Have you ever slept in a really comfortable mattress that you just don't feel like waking up and wish you can spend the rest of your day lazing on the bed? Any recommendation on which brand of mattress give one the most support yet soft & comfortable sleep?
Here's those recommended by forummers :
Style Master
Simmons MaxCoil
Simmons Backcare 4
Oasis Lifestyle Mattress
Lotus, Omazz (at Centerpoint Robinson)
Serta Alabama
Getha
Simmons Beautyrest Mirage(Non-flip)
maxcoil platinum beau-sleep
sealy's monte carlo range
simmons s3000 advance backcare
Omazz 3 layer one name fountain oak (cure backpain problem)
Tempur
Here's those recommended by forummers :
Style Master
Simmons MaxCoil
Simmons Backcare 4
Oasis Lifestyle Mattress
Lotus, Omazz (at Centerpoint Robinson)
Serta Alabama
Getha
Simmons Beautyrest Mirage(Non-flip)
maxcoil platinum beau-sleep
sealy's monte carlo range
simmons s3000 advance backcare
Omazz 3 layer one name fountain oak (cure backpain problem)
Tempur
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Toilet Bowl Pan Collar Fitting : Must have Silicon Seal
Sometimes when someone flushes his toilet on the upper floors, pressure is created that can suck water from your toilet bowl into the sewage pipe. When that happens the water level in the bowl will drop so drastically that it leaves a gap in the "S" bend, allowing foul air from the sewage pipe to seep into your toilet.
So if your toilet smells bad, first check there is sufficient water in the toilet bowl. No, not in the cistern but in the toilet bowl itself. This water in the bowl acts as a barrier to foul air from the sewage pipe, and prevents any foul smell entering the toilet through the sewage pipe.
If the water level in the toilet bowl is high enough above the "S" bend, then you should suspect an unsealed pan collar as the culprit for the stink.
Now, what about the report that some people complained their toilets smelled after the HDB upgrading exercise?
I believe that had nothing to do with the replacement of the cast-iron sewage pipe nor with the removal of the air vent pipe. The reason for the stink was very likely due to the bad installation of their toilet bowl. It was likely cracks developed at the cement base of the toilet bowl when the sewage pipe was changed, and because the pan collar of the toilet was not properly sealed, foul air escaped from the sewage system into the toilet.
LESSON LEARNT:
Ensure your plumber applies a silicone seal around the pan collar when he first installs the toilet bowl. That is the proper and correct procedure to install the toilet bowl. In the west plumbers use a wax gasket to ensure an airtight seal between the toilet bowl and the sewage pipe.
Readers will recall that during the 2003 SARS epidermic, it was reported in Hongkong the virus spread from one floor to the floor below via the sewage pipe. Although details were not divulged in the press report, I suspect the leak was caused by improper toilet bowl installation.
When someone flushes his toilet on the upper floors, obviously the foul air carrying viruses and bacteria will be "flushed" into the toilet on the floor below through the unsealed pan collar. Hence the stink.
I would probably have remained ignorant today of how unsanitary my toilet installation was had I not experienced the stinky toilet bowl problem.
Now, even if you have a toilet bowl that is completely sealed so that no air could escape from the chamber once the toilet is cemented to the floor, it is still advisable to ask your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar. Otherwise you risk allowing viruses to enter your toilet each time someone on the upper floors flushes the toilet.
As we know, cement is porous and over time will develop cracks so that most people will find their toilets stink after some years, especially for those with unsealed pan collars. You can prevent the stink by getting your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar during the initial installation of the toilet bowl.
Why risk your family's health?
POSTSCRIPT: Public health was at risk so I posted the issue on a forum, see below:
A friend pm'ed me asking why apply silicone sealant when the plumber already used white cement to seal the toilet bowl to the floor?
Well, the silicone sealant is applied to the pan collar -- the piece that is connected to the sewage pipe hole. If the pan collar is not sealed, foul air (and soil too) will seep into yr toilet bowl chamber due to the air presure at work.
Like others, I did not ask my plumber to seal the pan collar when he first installed the bowl. After installation, my toilet smelled badly, particularly when someone on higher floors flushed the toilet.
My toilet was a 1-piece design, and had 2 rectangular holes at the back of the toilet bowl. Hence I could detect the foul smell. More importantly, I realized the risk I was putting my family to, breathing in bad air, particularly bacteria and viruses from sick neighbors upstairs after they had flushed the toilet.
If not for the toilet design I had chosen, I would not have detected the foul smell, and the problem probably would only surface several years later.
You don't get any foul smell if your toilet bowl has no openings and is fully sealed by the white cement onto the floor. But over time the cement will develop tiny cracks, that is when you begin to detect foul smell from the toilet bowl area. That happened to my old toilet (after 5 yrs), although at that time I did not know what caused the bad smell. Maybe the earthquakes from Indonesia over last 2 yrs was a contributory factor, causing tiny cracks in the cement to appear, thereby allowing foul air to seep into the toilet space?
Anyway, when my plumber told me he never applied silicone sealant to the pan collar I realized probably all plumbers in Singapore also install toilet bowls without applying silicone sealant!
That is very unhygienic. Ask yr plumber if that is true. Probably he will tell you he don't use silicone sealant for your toilet bowl's pan collar too.
With unsealed toilet bowls we are probably breathing in all sorts of viruses and bacteria discharged from sick neighbors in the block without knowing it.
The HK health authorities at first were mystified how the SARS virus were spreading in the same apartment block. Finally they traced the spread to faulty sewage pipe.
The authorities did not reveal what caused the leak (in order not to spread public panic) but the culprit was the unsealed toilet bowl that allowed foul air (carrying the virus) to spread from one upper flat to another lower down. If the toilet pipe had merely been leaking water, do you think the affected flat owner would not have noticed that and left the leak unattended? Of course not! So I believe SARS had spread via the unsealed toilet bowl pan collar!
Now that my toilet bowl has been re-installed, there is no more foul smell !
So, please remind yr plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar.
So if your toilet smells bad, first check there is sufficient water in the toilet bowl. No, not in the cistern but in the toilet bowl itself. This water in the bowl acts as a barrier to foul air from the sewage pipe, and prevents any foul smell entering the toilet through the sewage pipe.
If the water level in the toilet bowl is high enough above the "S" bend, then you should suspect an unsealed pan collar as the culprit for the stink.
Now, what about the report that some people complained their toilets smelled after the HDB upgrading exercise?
I believe that had nothing to do with the replacement of the cast-iron sewage pipe nor with the removal of the air vent pipe. The reason for the stink was very likely due to the bad installation of their toilet bowl. It was likely cracks developed at the cement base of the toilet bowl when the sewage pipe was changed, and because the pan collar of the toilet was not properly sealed, foul air escaped from the sewage system into the toilet.
LESSON LEARNT:
Ensure your plumber applies a silicone seal around the pan collar when he first installs the toilet bowl. That is the proper and correct procedure to install the toilet bowl. In the west plumbers use a wax gasket to ensure an airtight seal between the toilet bowl and the sewage pipe.
Readers will recall that during the 2003 SARS epidermic, it was reported in Hongkong the virus spread from one floor to the floor below via the sewage pipe. Although details were not divulged in the press report, I suspect the leak was caused by improper toilet bowl installation.
When someone flushes his toilet on the upper floors, obviously the foul air carrying viruses and bacteria will be "flushed" into the toilet on the floor below through the unsealed pan collar. Hence the stink.
I would probably have remained ignorant today of how unsanitary my toilet installation was had I not experienced the stinky toilet bowl problem.
Now, even if you have a toilet bowl that is completely sealed so that no air could escape from the chamber once the toilet is cemented to the floor, it is still advisable to ask your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar. Otherwise you risk allowing viruses to enter your toilet each time someone on the upper floors flushes the toilet.
As we know, cement is porous and over time will develop cracks so that most people will find their toilets stink after some years, especially for those with unsealed pan collars. You can prevent the stink by getting your plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar during the initial installation of the toilet bowl.
Why risk your family's health?
POSTSCRIPT: Public health was at risk so I posted the issue on a forum, see below:
A friend pm'ed me asking why apply silicone sealant when the plumber already used white cement to seal the toilet bowl to the floor?
Well, the silicone sealant is applied to the pan collar -- the piece that is connected to the sewage pipe hole. If the pan collar is not sealed, foul air (and soil too) will seep into yr toilet bowl chamber due to the air presure at work.
Like others, I did not ask my plumber to seal the pan collar when he first installed the bowl. After installation, my toilet smelled badly, particularly when someone on higher floors flushed the toilet.
My toilet was a 1-piece design, and had 2 rectangular holes at the back of the toilet bowl. Hence I could detect the foul smell. More importantly, I realized the risk I was putting my family to, breathing in bad air, particularly bacteria and viruses from sick neighbors upstairs after they had flushed the toilet.
If not for the toilet design I had chosen, I would not have detected the foul smell, and the problem probably would only surface several years later.
You don't get any foul smell if your toilet bowl has no openings and is fully sealed by the white cement onto the floor. But over time the cement will develop tiny cracks, that is when you begin to detect foul smell from the toilet bowl area. That happened to my old toilet (after 5 yrs), although at that time I did not know what caused the bad smell. Maybe the earthquakes from Indonesia over last 2 yrs was a contributory factor, causing tiny cracks in the cement to appear, thereby allowing foul air to seep into the toilet space?
Anyway, when my plumber told me he never applied silicone sealant to the pan collar I realized probably all plumbers in Singapore also install toilet bowls without applying silicone sealant!
That is very unhygienic. Ask yr plumber if that is true. Probably he will tell you he don't use silicone sealant for your toilet bowl's pan collar too.
With unsealed toilet bowls we are probably breathing in all sorts of viruses and bacteria discharged from sick neighbors in the block without knowing it.
The HK health authorities at first were mystified how the SARS virus were spreading in the same apartment block. Finally they traced the spread to faulty sewage pipe.
The authorities did not reveal what caused the leak (in order not to spread public panic) but the culprit was the unsealed toilet bowl that allowed foul air (carrying the virus) to spread from one upper flat to another lower down. If the toilet pipe had merely been leaking water, do you think the affected flat owner would not have noticed that and left the leak unattended? Of course not! So I believe SARS had spread via the unsealed toilet bowl pan collar!
Now that my toilet bowl has been re-installed, there is no more foul smell !
So, please remind yr plumber to apply silicone sealant to the pan collar.
Possible Mistakes during Renovation Work
1. Misalignment of Rain Shower Arm
When the plumber installed the rain shower fitting, the misalignment was not apparent because the partition wall was then not tiled yet. It was only when the partition wall was tiled (on 24-Mar-08) that the misalignment became painfully obvious.
He should have, but did not, used a plumb line to determine the vertical alignment of the rain shower piping. Lapse of concentration, perhaps?
The tiler should have alerted the ID when he first noticed the misalignment, but did not. Maybe he was tired, because he arrived late in the afternoon at about 4 pm to finish the tiling of the partition wall. When asked by the ID, he maintained the owner saw the work and said nothing, so he thought the owner did not mind!
Mistake again!
After the tiler had completed the re-tiling, I noticed he had used his own initiative to further "adjust" the position of the pipe. The result was that now the rain shower arm was not vertically aligned with the concealed tap fitting, although the plumber had earlier already corrected the vertical alignment. Golly, what was the tiler thinking?
The tiler was apologetic.
I decided to let it pass as the misalignment was slight and not obvious to the casual observer. But it is a sore sight to my eyes!!!
I should have been there at the bathroom to supervise the tiler's work, and never took things for granted. OK, lesson learnt.
2. No hole for basin waste water discharge
Owing to a lack of foresight or focus, the tiler inadvertently cemented and covered the original hole in the bathroom floor that was meant for the hand basin discharge pipe. This was a major error, for the hand basin could not simply discharge its waste water into the bathroom floor!
And because hacking would damage the waterproofing layer in the bathroom floor, the tiler could not now hack the cement away to expose the discharge hole for the basin pipe.
Finally, a less elegant solution was to cut a hole in the plastic trap for the hand basin piping. Luckily there would be a partition wall to box up the ugly piping in the bathroom.
3. Side-by-side doors not top-aligned with each other
4. Other issues
Uneven skirting
Problem was caused by the uneven wall, and tiler simply cut and tiled the granite skirting to follow the unevenness. Neither the ID nor the owner were alerted. When the problem was subsequently discovered after an inspection, tiler had to remove the skirting, then hack away part of the uneven wall, and re-tile.
Fault was due to the uneven wall. Would be appreciative if tiler had alerted owner to the issue before tiling.
Wrong positioning of double socket point
Electrician will correct the positioning in subsequent days.
Internet piping in floor
Tiler did not discuss with owner or ID how the PVC pipe will be aligned with the skirting. Not a major issue, can live with it.
One instead of two feed cable for SCV
Electrician on his own initiative laid one SCV cable instead of two from the SCV junction box outside the flat.
Probably too late to lay 2 cables now as it will spoil the nice plastic trunking laid. Will try and see what can be done.
Mistake in light switches
Not yet discussed. Probably could change design of light fixtures to accommodate the switches.
Smelly toilet
Plumber claimed silicone sealant not normally applied to seal pan collar to the sewage hole when I asked him to apply. Should have insisted, because after installation the toilet still smells.
Self-applied silicone to the base, that reduced the smell somewhat but bad smell still detected.
Plumber will remove toilet and apply sealant to the pan collar, then re-install the toilet, if the smell persists after a few more days.
Completion delay
The window fabricator had already stopped taking orders when the contract was signed with the ID. That caused the delay, but the extent and severity of the delay on project completion was unforeseen.
Will know and prepare better in future.
Poor water outflow in toilet
Problem occurs in toilet, so is not severe as mop will be used to clean the toilet.
Thus can live with the problem, although problem should not have happened if tiler had correctly sloped the floor in the course of the tiling.
Fridge door unable to open fully to 270 deg
Fridge depth was 80cm and tiler created cement wall with same 80cm depth. As a result the fridge door could open only to 90 deg, whereas it must open to 150% or more to permit frdige shelving to be taken out for cleaning.
Wrong color for laminated flooring
ID asked the worker to remove the wrong color tiles and redo the laminated flooring. However the color was still too dark for owner's taste. Decided to live with it.
HDB approval delayed for hacking wall
The HDB officer claimed 10-day delay was caused by incorrect submission by the design firm. However, approval was given immediately when ID submitted correct drawings.
When the plumber installed the rain shower fitting, the misalignment was not apparent because the partition wall was then not tiled yet. It was only when the partition wall was tiled (on 24-Mar-08) that the misalignment became painfully obvious.
He should have, but did not, used a plumb line to determine the vertical alignment of the rain shower piping. Lapse of concentration, perhaps?
The tiler should have alerted the ID when he first noticed the misalignment, but did not. Maybe he was tired, because he arrived late in the afternoon at about 4 pm to finish the tiling of the partition wall. When asked by the ID, he maintained the owner saw the work and said nothing, so he thought the owner did not mind!
Mistake again!
After the tiler had completed the re-tiling, I noticed he had used his own initiative to further "adjust" the position of the pipe. The result was that now the rain shower arm was not vertically aligned with the concealed tap fitting, although the plumber had earlier already corrected the vertical alignment. Golly, what was the tiler thinking?
The tiler was apologetic.
I decided to let it pass as the misalignment was slight and not obvious to the casual observer. But it is a sore sight to my eyes!!!
I should have been there at the bathroom to supervise the tiler's work, and never took things for granted. OK, lesson learnt.
2. No hole for basin waste water discharge
Owing to a lack of foresight or focus, the tiler inadvertently cemented and covered the original hole in the bathroom floor that was meant for the hand basin discharge pipe. This was a major error, for the hand basin could not simply discharge its waste water into the bathroom floor!
And because hacking would damage the waterproofing layer in the bathroom floor, the tiler could not now hack the cement away to expose the discharge hole for the basin pipe.
Finally, a less elegant solution was to cut a hole in the plastic trap for the hand basin piping. Luckily there would be a partition wall to box up the ugly piping in the bathroom.
3. Side-by-side doors not top-aligned with each other
4. Other issues
Uneven skirting
Problem was caused by the uneven wall, and tiler simply cut and tiled the granite skirting to follow the unevenness. Neither the ID nor the owner were alerted. When the problem was subsequently discovered after an inspection, tiler had to remove the skirting, then hack away part of the uneven wall, and re-tile.
Fault was due to the uneven wall. Would be appreciative if tiler had alerted owner to the issue before tiling.
Wrong positioning of double socket point
Electrician will correct the positioning in subsequent days.
Internet piping in floor
Tiler did not discuss with owner or ID how the PVC pipe will be aligned with the skirting. Not a major issue, can live with it.
One instead of two feed cable for SCV
Electrician on his own initiative laid one SCV cable instead of two from the SCV junction box outside the flat.
Probably too late to lay 2 cables now as it will spoil the nice plastic trunking laid. Will try and see what can be done.
Mistake in light switches
Not yet discussed. Probably could change design of light fixtures to accommodate the switches.
Smelly toilet
Plumber claimed silicone sealant not normally applied to seal pan collar to the sewage hole when I asked him to apply. Should have insisted, because after installation the toilet still smells.
Self-applied silicone to the base, that reduced the smell somewhat but bad smell still detected.
Plumber will remove toilet and apply sealant to the pan collar, then re-install the toilet, if the smell persists after a few more days.
Completion delay
The window fabricator had already stopped taking orders when the contract was signed with the ID. That caused the delay, but the extent and severity of the delay on project completion was unforeseen.
Will know and prepare better in future.
Poor water outflow in toilet
Problem occurs in toilet, so is not severe as mop will be used to clean the toilet.
Thus can live with the problem, although problem should not have happened if tiler had correctly sloped the floor in the course of the tiling.
Fridge door unable to open fully to 270 deg
Fridge depth was 80cm and tiler created cement wall with same 80cm depth. As a result the fridge door could open only to 90 deg, whereas it must open to 150% or more to permit frdige shelving to be taken out for cleaning.
Wrong color for laminated flooring
ID asked the worker to remove the wrong color tiles and redo the laminated flooring. However the color was still too dark for owner's taste. Decided to live with it.
HDB approval delayed for hacking wall
The HDB officer claimed 10-day delay was caused by incorrect submission by the design firm. However, approval was given immediately when ID submitted correct drawings.
LED Lights
LED lights are just coming into vogue and already LED bulbs for general room lighting have started to make an appearance, though they are by no means mainstream yet.
LED represents the future of lighting, as oil price remains high at over US$100 per barrel for the rest of the decade, and very likely beyond.
Running on very low power -- usually one-tenth of a 40W normal bulb -- the Ikea Dioder lights pay for themselves within a year of usage! Obviously as oil price shoots higher, the payback period becomes shorter.
And do you know LED lights have a lifespan of 100,000 hours? That is about 11 years of continuous lighting!!
Although strictly still not comparable in brightness or luminance to CFLs, I think it will only be a matter of time before LEDs attain (and probably surpass, since they are based on electronics) the brightness of CFLs.
One use I can imagine for LED lights is "switch-on-and-forget-it" or "convenience" lighting. That is, I can switch on the LED lights in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet when dusk falls and leave them on without the need to turn off-on as family members enter and/or leave the kitchen. Or use them as night light for the kids.
Home automation has been around for quite some time but only this year has remote-controlled lighting started to appear in retail outlets. The above-pictured Lightcraft dining lamp was launched only in mid-Mar 08. It is equipped with 1 x GU10 50W halogen bulb and 6 x R7S 100W bulbs. The latter are specialized halogen bulbs with double ends and burn very brightly.
The included remote allows you to control the fixture in several ways: 1 - 50W halogen downlight, excellent for food presentation at the dining table, 2 - Three R7S bulbs light up, casting a wide circle of light over dining table, 3 - Three R7S bulbs light up to throw light on the ceiling, and 4 - All bulbs light up.
You can also combine the various lights e.g. halogen downlight with ceiling uplight, or wide dining table light with ceiling uplight, etc.
Though I vowed never to buy light fittings that require specialized bulbs (read = bad experience), I couldn't resist the technological allure, so placed an immediate order for a set.
And the price? S$253.50 per set.
LED represents the future of lighting, as oil price remains high at over US$100 per barrel for the rest of the decade, and very likely beyond.
Running on very low power -- usually one-tenth of a 40W normal bulb -- the Ikea Dioder lights pay for themselves within a year of usage! Obviously as oil price shoots higher, the payback period becomes shorter.
And do you know LED lights have a lifespan of 100,000 hours? That is about 11 years of continuous lighting!!
Although strictly still not comparable in brightness or luminance to CFLs, I think it will only be a matter of time before LEDs attain (and probably surpass, since they are based on electronics) the brightness of CFLs.
One use I can imagine for LED lights is "switch-on-and-forget-it" or "convenience" lighting. That is, I can switch on the LED lights in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet when dusk falls and leave them on without the need to turn off-on as family members enter and/or leave the kitchen. Or use them as night light for the kids.
Home automation has been around for quite some time but only this year has remote-controlled lighting started to appear in retail outlets. The above-pictured Lightcraft dining lamp was launched only in mid-Mar 08. It is equipped with 1 x GU10 50W halogen bulb and 6 x R7S 100W bulbs. The latter are specialized halogen bulbs with double ends and burn very brightly.
The included remote allows you to control the fixture in several ways: 1 - 50W halogen downlight, excellent for food presentation at the dining table, 2 - Three R7S bulbs light up, casting a wide circle of light over dining table, 3 - Three R7S bulbs light up to throw light on the ceiling, and 4 - All bulbs light up.
You can also combine the various lights e.g. halogen downlight with ceiling uplight, or wide dining table light with ceiling uplight, etc.
Though I vowed never to buy light fittings that require specialized bulbs (read = bad experience), I couldn't resist the technological allure, so placed an immediate order for a set.
And the price? S$253.50 per set.
Energy Conservation Appliances
Tips on Energy Saving Home Appliances :
Air-conditioners and refrigerators were the first 2 appliances to be covered under the ELS as their usage accounts for about 50% of the total electricity bill of a typical household.
refrigerators
When buying a New Refrigerator
Refrigerators have an expected useful life of 17 years. It is therefore important to purchase a refrigerator that meets your needs, but does not exceed them.
Measure the space where you want to put your refrigerator. Most manufacturers recommend 25 mm (1") of space on each side for airflow.
Choose a model with an energy saver switch, allowing you to determine the setting that provides maximum energy savings without causing any condensation.
Consider a model with wheels as it will be easier to pull it out and clean the coils.
Energy Efficient Tips
Do not place your refrigerator near heat sources such as sunlight, the stove or the oven.
Adjust the thermostat to the recommended settings.
Allow hot food to cool before placing it in the refrigerator and cover all food and liquids.
Refrigerators operate most efficiently with good air circulation. It is therefore good practice not to overload it.
Do not open the door unnecessarily as the cool air will escape.
Clean the coils at the back of your refrigerator every six months. Be sure to unplug the unit first for safety.
Test the door seal occasionally by closing the door on a thin piece of paper. If it does not stay in place, the seal should be replaced.
water Heating
Use an instantaneous water heater instead of one with a storage tank.
A storage water heater with a capacity of 23-27 litres should be sufficient for a family of 4-6.
Switch on the storage water heater for 20 minutes before taking the bath.
washing machine
Refrain from using hot water to wash clothes.
Wash a full load of laundry at a time. Alternatively, you could set the water level to match the amount of laundry.
Use the correct amount of detergent.
electric & microwave ovens
Do not open the oven door while the food is cooking as the temperature may drop by 25oC to 30oC each time the door is opened.
Cook multiple dishes at the same time. Cooking 2 dishes in the oven requires less time and also less energy as compared to cooking each dish in the oven one after another.
Avoid placing aluminium foil next to the cookware as it would reflect the heat away from the dish. The dish would then require a longer time and more energy to cook
Avoid thawing frozen food in ovens as this can be easily done at room temperature although it takes a longer time.
ironing
Plan your ironing. Start with items which require lower temperatures so as to avoid unnecessary and repeated heating of the iron.
Set appropriate temperatures for the various types of fabrics.
television
When watching television programmes, keep the room's light low. This helps to save electricity and also reduces annoying glare from your television screen.
Switch off the television set when not in use.
vacuum Cleaner
Switch off the vacuum cleaner when the motor becomes too hot, or when there is a change in the sound of the motor. There might be something trapped in the hose.
Empty or replace the dust bag frequently.
air-conditioners
Ensure that the air-conditioning unit is properly sized for your home. Operating a unit, which is either too large or too small, is highly inefficient. It is also more energy efficient to install a split unit if you are cooling more than one room.
Clean the air filter regularly and have your air conditioner inspected annually. An annual inspection of your cooling system may extend the life of your equipment and help you to save money by lowering your energy bills. Poorly maintained air conditioners can waste a tremendous amount of energy.
Set the thermostat at an ideal temperature of 25oC.
Close windows and doors when your air-conditioner is in use.
Keep your house cool by using awnings, blinds and solar reflecting film on the windows.
lighting
Although lighting in your home does not account for the largest percentage of your bill, it is still worthwhile to be as economical as possible.
Remember to turn the lights out when you leave a room
Try using fewer light bulbs.
Use lower-wattage incandescent bulbs.
Light timers can help save energy and are also useful in protecting your home when you are away.
Clean lights shine brighter. It is therefore worthwhile to dust your lights - but be sure to turn off the fixture first.
Find Out More about the Various Types of Lighting Available
ENERGY EFFICIENT LIGHTING ALTERNATIVES
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs
Use up to 70% less energy than a standard light bulb.
Last up to 10 times longer, and come in the same 'natural white' as a standard bulb.
To achieve the best payback on their original cost, fluorescent bulbs are ideal for lights that are used for longer than 3 hours a day.
Savings are not only achieved in the energy efficiency of the bulb but also on the cost of buying replacement bulbs.
Fluorescent Tubes
Use 60 - 80 % less energy than a standard bulb.
Last 10 to 20 times longer, and come in a range of light quality.
Available in a wide assortment of lengths.
Perfect for bathrooms, kitchens and workshops.
Although the upfront cost is greater than normal bulbs, they are economical to use and can spread even light over wide areas.
Energy Saving Bulbs
The simplest way to save energy is to replace your standard bulb with energy saving incandescents. They are available in wattages of 34, 52, 90 and 135 to replace your 40, 60, 100 and 150 watt bulbs. The slightly lower light output is not noticeable for most people.
Task Lighting
Refrain from using general room lighting for specific purposes, instead use reading lamps or lights over a kitchen counter. With an effective balance of general and task lighting, you will be able to achieve energy efficiency and a delightful environment.
Dimmer Switches
Regular light bulbs can be made more efficient by controlling them with dimmer switches, which are relatively inexpensive. Turning the light level down will save energy, extend the life of the bulb, and set the mood in a room. If you have dimmer switches and find yourself consistently reducing the light level, consider switching to lower wattage bulbs.
Halogen Bulbs
Halogen bulbs are another efficient replacement for your standard bulb. Halogens are similar to incandescents, however they produce a whiter light, use up to 40% less energy and last two to four times longer. Although Halogen bulbs are more expensive to purchase, they are perfect for track lighting and outdoor security.
Air-conditioners and refrigerators were the first 2 appliances to be covered under the ELS as their usage accounts for about 50% of the total electricity bill of a typical household.
refrigerators
When buying a New Refrigerator
Refrigerators have an expected useful life of 17 years. It is therefore important to purchase a refrigerator that meets your needs, but does not exceed them.
Measure the space where you want to put your refrigerator. Most manufacturers recommend 25 mm (1") of space on each side for airflow.
Choose a model with an energy saver switch, allowing you to determine the setting that provides maximum energy savings without causing any condensation.
Consider a model with wheels as it will be easier to pull it out and clean the coils.
Energy Efficient Tips
Do not place your refrigerator near heat sources such as sunlight, the stove or the oven.
Adjust the thermostat to the recommended settings.
Allow hot food to cool before placing it in the refrigerator and cover all food and liquids.
Refrigerators operate most efficiently with good air circulation. It is therefore good practice not to overload it.
Do not open the door unnecessarily as the cool air will escape.
Clean the coils at the back of your refrigerator every six months. Be sure to unplug the unit first for safety.
Test the door seal occasionally by closing the door on a thin piece of paper. If it does not stay in place, the seal should be replaced.
water Heating
Use an instantaneous water heater instead of one with a storage tank.
A storage water heater with a capacity of 23-27 litres should be sufficient for a family of 4-6.
Switch on the storage water heater for 20 minutes before taking the bath.
washing machine
Refrain from using hot water to wash clothes.
Wash a full load of laundry at a time. Alternatively, you could set the water level to match the amount of laundry.
Use the correct amount of detergent.
electric & microwave ovens
Do not open the oven door while the food is cooking as the temperature may drop by 25oC to 30oC each time the door is opened.
Cook multiple dishes at the same time. Cooking 2 dishes in the oven requires less time and also less energy as compared to cooking each dish in the oven one after another.
Avoid placing aluminium foil next to the cookware as it would reflect the heat away from the dish. The dish would then require a longer time and more energy to cook
Avoid thawing frozen food in ovens as this can be easily done at room temperature although it takes a longer time.
ironing
Plan your ironing. Start with items which require lower temperatures so as to avoid unnecessary and repeated heating of the iron.
Set appropriate temperatures for the various types of fabrics.
television
When watching television programmes, keep the room's light low. This helps to save electricity and also reduces annoying glare from your television screen.
Switch off the television set when not in use.
vacuum Cleaner
Switch off the vacuum cleaner when the motor becomes too hot, or when there is a change in the sound of the motor. There might be something trapped in the hose.
Empty or replace the dust bag frequently.
air-conditioners
Ensure that the air-conditioning unit is properly sized for your home. Operating a unit, which is either too large or too small, is highly inefficient. It is also more energy efficient to install a split unit if you are cooling more than one room.
Clean the air filter regularly and have your air conditioner inspected annually. An annual inspection of your cooling system may extend the life of your equipment and help you to save money by lowering your energy bills. Poorly maintained air conditioners can waste a tremendous amount of energy.
Set the thermostat at an ideal temperature of 25oC.
Close windows and doors when your air-conditioner is in use.
Keep your house cool by using awnings, blinds and solar reflecting film on the windows.
lighting
Although lighting in your home does not account for the largest percentage of your bill, it is still worthwhile to be as economical as possible.
Remember to turn the lights out when you leave a room
Try using fewer light bulbs.
Use lower-wattage incandescent bulbs.
Light timers can help save energy and are also useful in protecting your home when you are away.
Clean lights shine brighter. It is therefore worthwhile to dust your lights - but be sure to turn off the fixture first.
Find Out More about the Various Types of Lighting Available
ENERGY EFFICIENT LIGHTING ALTERNATIVES
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs
Use up to 70% less energy than a standard light bulb.
Last up to 10 times longer, and come in the same 'natural white' as a standard bulb.
To achieve the best payback on their original cost, fluorescent bulbs are ideal for lights that are used for longer than 3 hours a day.
Savings are not only achieved in the energy efficiency of the bulb but also on the cost of buying replacement bulbs.
Fluorescent Tubes
Use 60 - 80 % less energy than a standard bulb.
Last 10 to 20 times longer, and come in a range of light quality.
Available in a wide assortment of lengths.
Perfect for bathrooms, kitchens and workshops.
Although the upfront cost is greater than normal bulbs, they are economical to use and can spread even light over wide areas.
Energy Saving Bulbs
The simplest way to save energy is to replace your standard bulb with energy saving incandescents. They are available in wattages of 34, 52, 90 and 135 to replace your 40, 60, 100 and 150 watt bulbs. The slightly lower light output is not noticeable for most people.
Task Lighting
Refrain from using general room lighting for specific purposes, instead use reading lamps or lights over a kitchen counter. With an effective balance of general and task lighting, you will be able to achieve energy efficiency and a delightful environment.
Dimmer Switches
Regular light bulbs can be made more efficient by controlling them with dimmer switches, which are relatively inexpensive. Turning the light level down will save energy, extend the life of the bulb, and set the mood in a room. If you have dimmer switches and find yourself consistently reducing the light level, consider switching to lower wattage bulbs.
Halogen Bulbs
Halogen bulbs are another efficient replacement for your standard bulb. Halogens are similar to incandescents, however they produce a whiter light, use up to 40% less energy and last two to four times longer. Although Halogen bulbs are more expensive to purchase, they are perfect for track lighting and outdoor security.
Protect Yourself against Unscrupulous ID/Contractor
How do you protect yourself against an unscrupulous ID/Contractor?
Visiting an ID's work at his on-going project site(s) and seeing for yourself the quality of the work done is at best a comfort, but not a guarantee, that he will produce good workmanship for your renovation, for the foll reasons:
(1) the sub-con team he used for the work you have just seen may not be available for your renovation,
(2) most IDs / Contractors have a (bad) tendency to accept more jobs than they can comfortably handle, leading to "rushed job" for your flat. [ tongue.gif Hint: now you know why I don't recommend too much my ID while my renovation is still not completed!]
So, how do you protect yourself against shoddy work and unscrupulous IDs/ Contractors, as well as against the possibility that an ID may not produce good work foir your renovation despite having shown you good work done at his other project sites?
Simple -- don't pay a cent until you see evidence of the work done for your renovation!!
Let me rephrase that: pay only for work done i.e. use the progress payment method to control your ID / Contractor. That is, if he has detailed his quotation, pay hm according to the work done e.g. suppose he quoted $1,500 for replacing the windows, pay him that amount on completion of that job, after you are satisfied with the work done.
Most IDs / contractors ask for 10-30% down payment on first signing the renovation contract. I told my ID, not in a harsh tone but using a gentle, persuasive tone:
"Why should I pay you when work has not started? I have more to lose than you. In my case, I cannot run away since you know where my flat is, but if you produce shoddy work, or turn out to be a cheat, you can simply disappear and I would be left with a headache! I want to trust you but I have to be careful lah."
Any reputable and experienced ID / design firm (which is what you should get) will have good relations with suppliers. These suppliers don't ask for immediate payment upfront whenever the ID brings his client to select materials but allow the ID firm to pay 1-2 months later, depending on their business relationship.
Therefore there is no good reason why you should pay upfront 10-30% of the contract price on first signing the contract. The only reason the ID asks for down payment is in case you change your mind and don't proceed on the renovation with him. That is a lame excuse, because you have signed the contract already! So I told my ID his interests are already (legally) protected when I signed on the dotted line.
Of course, as my renovation progressed and I saw that my ID was responsible and did his best for me, I relaxed the payment control and began to trust him more.
In other words, instead of you trusting the ID, turn it around and make the ID trust you for payment!
Second: insisting on progress payment gives you control.
If the work is shoddy or unacceptable, you withhold payment until the problem is rectified.
Now, if the ID is responsible and fair, you don't even have to resort to withhold payment. Usually a responsible ID will instruct the sub-con to correct the mistake(s) once he has seen the problem, or when you pointed out such mistakes to him.
On your part, you have to be responsible too. If you change your mind about a specific job or you want something done in another way AFTER you have agreed with the ID initially on what you want done, that is NOT the ID's mistake but additional work and is your mistake. Gracefully accept your mistake and be fair to pay the ID for the additional work.
If you treat the ID fairly and with respect, he will likewise reciprocate if he is a fair and reasonable guy, like in my case.
As my experience of my ID grew, my respect for him grew too. Not that he is totally blameless or perfect, but I found him to be responsible and he has access to sub-cons that produce really good work, as you can see for yourself on my blog.
Now, assuming you got an unscrupulous ID / Contractor, what do you do? Well, simply withhold further payment and stop all work. That will cut your loss.
Take photos of the work done as proof of the poor workmanship. Unscrupulous IDs / Contractors always shun publicity and you don't need to worry about any legal suits. If any, your photos will usually clinch the case for you.
Flat owners should learn how to protect themselves, and help stamp out unscrupulous IDs / Contractors using the method I advocate.
Visiting an ID's work at his on-going project site(s) and seeing for yourself the quality of the work done is at best a comfort, but not a guarantee, that he will produce good workmanship for your renovation, for the foll reasons:
(1) the sub-con team he used for the work you have just seen may not be available for your renovation,
(2) most IDs / Contractors have a (bad) tendency to accept more jobs than they can comfortably handle, leading to "rushed job" for your flat. [ tongue.gif Hint: now you know why I don't recommend too much my ID while my renovation is still not completed!]
So, how do you protect yourself against shoddy work and unscrupulous IDs/ Contractors, as well as against the possibility that an ID may not produce good work foir your renovation despite having shown you good work done at his other project sites?
Simple -- don't pay a cent until you see evidence of the work done for your renovation!!
Let me rephrase that: pay only for work done i.e. use the progress payment method to control your ID / Contractor. That is, if he has detailed his quotation, pay hm according to the work done e.g. suppose he quoted $1,500 for replacing the windows, pay him that amount on completion of that job, after you are satisfied with the work done.
Most IDs / contractors ask for 10-30% down payment on first signing the renovation contract. I told my ID, not in a harsh tone but using a gentle, persuasive tone:
"Why should I pay you when work has not started? I have more to lose than you. In my case, I cannot run away since you know where my flat is, but if you produce shoddy work, or turn out to be a cheat, you can simply disappear and I would be left with a headache! I want to trust you but I have to be careful lah."
Any reputable and experienced ID / design firm (which is what you should get) will have good relations with suppliers. These suppliers don't ask for immediate payment upfront whenever the ID brings his client to select materials but allow the ID firm to pay 1-2 months later, depending on their business relationship.
Therefore there is no good reason why you should pay upfront 10-30% of the contract price on first signing the contract. The only reason the ID asks for down payment is in case you change your mind and don't proceed on the renovation with him. That is a lame excuse, because you have signed the contract already! So I told my ID his interests are already (legally) protected when I signed on the dotted line.
Of course, as my renovation progressed and I saw that my ID was responsible and did his best for me, I relaxed the payment control and began to trust him more.
In other words, instead of you trusting the ID, turn it around and make the ID trust you for payment!
Second: insisting on progress payment gives you control.
If the work is shoddy or unacceptable, you withhold payment until the problem is rectified.
Now, if the ID is responsible and fair, you don't even have to resort to withhold payment. Usually a responsible ID will instruct the sub-con to correct the mistake(s) once he has seen the problem, or when you pointed out such mistakes to him.
On your part, you have to be responsible too. If you change your mind about a specific job or you want something done in another way AFTER you have agreed with the ID initially on what you want done, that is NOT the ID's mistake but additional work and is your mistake. Gracefully accept your mistake and be fair to pay the ID for the additional work.
If you treat the ID fairly and with respect, he will likewise reciprocate if he is a fair and reasonable guy, like in my case.
As my experience of my ID grew, my respect for him grew too. Not that he is totally blameless or perfect, but I found him to be responsible and he has access to sub-cons that produce really good work, as you can see for yourself on my blog.
Now, assuming you got an unscrupulous ID / Contractor, what do you do? Well, simply withhold further payment and stop all work. That will cut your loss.
Take photos of the work done as proof of the poor workmanship. Unscrupulous IDs / Contractors always shun publicity and you don't need to worry about any legal suits. If any, your photos will usually clinch the case for you.
Flat owners should learn how to protect themselves, and help stamp out unscrupulous IDs / Contractors using the method I advocate.
Painting : Negotiation
Before I pm you the contact, I need to caution you on the negotiation part.
Most of these contractors will quote a low price over the telephone to 'entice' you, then later when they visit yr flat, they will jack up the price. So make sure you tell the contractor you are getting a few quotes, so even if they visit yr flat to give a final quote, you are not obliged to use them. That way you will get a good & reasonably low-price & competitive quote !
Second, make sure you tell the contractor exactly what you want -- whole flat plastering or simply "touch-up". The contractor will tell you whole flat plastering, but later claimed he meant only "touch-up" when you have given him the job. So you need to be very clear and specific about what you want -- before you agree with his quote. Point out the areas in your flat you need smoothening and plastering, so there is no ambiguity later. This was a lesson I learnt, not that I am complaining.
As for paintwork, be clear about how much sealer you need. The painter will quote say $250 for the sealer coat, but the fact is, he does not need to apply sealer coat to the whole flat, only those areas where there is fresh cement or plaster. So if he does not plaster all the area of a wall, you need not pay so much for the sealer coat. This I found out from my experience. I could have bargained for a lower price for the sealer but didn't because I was not aware of the tactic. Now I am a bit wiser, I share it with you.
Now for the actual paint job. Tell him what you want painted -- don't forget pipes, ceiling, door frames, etc. And the number of coats. They will use this as an excuse to jack up the price. I told him what I wanted on the telephone before he came to my place.
The contractor will show you a glossy catalog. And you pick, say, ICI Light and Space or All-in-One.
Later you are surprised when he used ICI Maxilite, a cheaper grade of paint for paint contractors. They don't tell you this at the time they quoted for the job, like in my case.
Too bad I only learnt about that tactic after I had agreed.
In my case I decided not to make an issue when I saw the team did a good job of the plastering -- you can see my blog for the Before and After photos -- so I let it pass. In any case the painter gave me what was specified for the final coat -- Dulux Light & Space, and the overall plastering-and-paint job was good.
I was patient and understanding only because his quote was lower than what most others were charging.
For the price I am not complaining, but am pleased with the result.
PM sent. Use my name ("Roland") to knock down the price he quoted.
For yr guidance, this was what I paid:
plastering $350
sealer coat $250
painting $800
total = $1,400
I got him to reduce to $1350.
BTW, he asked for a 50% deposit. I refused (to be safe in case the contractor not bona-fide and out to cheat) and said I will pay $400 only after he started work. When I saw he kept his word and started work in earnest, I decided to pay him $500 at the start of the 2nd day. Also, he didn't ask for payment after he had completed the job, I paid him instead but at his suggestion withheld $50 as he wants to return later to finish some little touch-ups that I had pointed out to him.
If you encounter any problem with him, it will likely be communication. I think his communication skills are not too good.
Most of these contractors will quote a low price over the telephone to 'entice' you, then later when they visit yr flat, they will jack up the price. So make sure you tell the contractor you are getting a few quotes, so even if they visit yr flat to give a final quote, you are not obliged to use them. That way you will get a good & reasonably low-price & competitive quote !
Second, make sure you tell the contractor exactly what you want -- whole flat plastering or simply "touch-up". The contractor will tell you whole flat plastering, but later claimed he meant only "touch-up" when you have given him the job. So you need to be very clear and specific about what you want -- before you agree with his quote. Point out the areas in your flat you need smoothening and plastering, so there is no ambiguity later. This was a lesson I learnt, not that I am complaining.
As for paintwork, be clear about how much sealer you need. The painter will quote say $250 for the sealer coat, but the fact is, he does not need to apply sealer coat to the whole flat, only those areas where there is fresh cement or plaster. So if he does not plaster all the area of a wall, you need not pay so much for the sealer coat. This I found out from my experience. I could have bargained for a lower price for the sealer but didn't because I was not aware of the tactic. Now I am a bit wiser, I share it with you.
Now for the actual paint job. Tell him what you want painted -- don't forget pipes, ceiling, door frames, etc. And the number of coats. They will use this as an excuse to jack up the price. I told him what I wanted on the telephone before he came to my place.
The contractor will show you a glossy catalog. And you pick, say, ICI Light and Space or All-in-One.
Later you are surprised when he used ICI Maxilite, a cheaper grade of paint for paint contractors. They don't tell you this at the time they quoted for the job, like in my case.
Too bad I only learnt about that tactic after I had agreed.
In my case I decided not to make an issue when I saw the team did a good job of the plastering -- you can see my blog for the Before and After photos -- so I let it pass. In any case the painter gave me what was specified for the final coat -- Dulux Light & Space, and the overall plastering-and-paint job was good.
I was patient and understanding only because his quote was lower than what most others were charging.
For the price I am not complaining, but am pleased with the result.
PM sent. Use my name ("Roland") to knock down the price he quoted.
For yr guidance, this was what I paid:
plastering $350
sealer coat $250
painting $800
total = $1,400
I got him to reduce to $1350.
BTW, he asked for a 50% deposit. I refused (to be safe in case the contractor not bona-fide and out to cheat) and said I will pay $400 only after he started work. When I saw he kept his word and started work in earnest, I decided to pay him $500 at the start of the 2nd day. Also, he didn't ask for payment after he had completed the job, I paid him instead but at his suggestion withheld $50 as he wants to return later to finish some little touch-ups that I had pointed out to him.
If you encounter any problem with him, it will likely be communication. I think his communication skills are not too good.
Free services related to Renovation work
Monday, July 7, 2008
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Popular Posts
-
Wall tiles refinished (without the hacking works) in custom-blended creamish almond colour. Views of bedroom passageway: Paint colour: Mag...
-
1. Hong Liang 2. Lee Meng trading 3. Mega Discount Store @ Katong Mall (look for Veron) 1) MEGA DISCOUNT STORE PTE LTD Add: 112 East Coast R...
-
make a call to James at Hong Liang (Alexandra), Alice at Kong Tai (Jurong West) or Lewis Goh of Mega DIscount (Katong Mall) and compare the ...
-
Kitchen Countertops, Counter Top Solid Surface, Quartz Surface, Resin & Glass Options --a comprehensive list of options ...
-
1. Rozel by JKL Furnishing, L2-L4, Blk E, Complex Lian Hoe, Taman Sentosa. Tel: 07-3358850 2. Lot, L2-JA5, Southern City Hypermarket, No. 3,...
-
When designing a lighting plan for a living room or family room, you need to consider the variety of activities that occur there. You'll...
-
Going to the Mattresses How to cut through the marketing gimmicks of Sealy, Serta, and the rest. By Seth Stevenson Posted Thursday, Nov. 23,...
Posts
